.45 semi wadcutter locking up the slide

Where can I get a cleaner pic of the headspace illustration you posted, Forrest R?
Do a internet search ("plunk test")
All sorts of info, video's, and pictures will come up.
Or, right click on the plunk test pictures I posted and select save image as. Then open the image and make it larger.

IMHO,
The bullet's shoulder is sticking out too far and is being jammed into the bbl when the slide closes. This locks the pistol up when you try to eject the live round. The plunk test (far right in picture) where the bottom of the case is sticking out above the end of the barrel will confirm this.
 
Where can I get a cleaner pic of the headspace illustration you posted, Forrest R?
I don't know, that's about the best pictures and descriptions I've seen.

I bought a spare barrel for my 1076. Would not chamber the round I use with the other barrel. The ogive hit the lands.
Stopped by my local gunsmith, 5 minutes with a reamer and he handed it back, no charge.

In these pictures you can see lead sitting on the case ledge.

I'm lucky, the guns I'm loading for don't mind this ammont. Some guns will lock up.
 

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I'll pile on. Who gives away ammo.
I don't shoot other people's ammo, not even range brass. I gots to know that the powder charge is OK.
When I change anything in my reloading sequence, especially bullets or crimp, I do the plunk test and feeding test from a magazine.
 
Please keep in mind you'll always have friends here on this forum.

Glad you tested your reloads and found what was giving you issues.
 
I have personally witnessed my friends high end and expensive Ed Brown 1911 that would only reliably feed factory 230 grain ball ammo. We were up at my buddy's hunting cabin and all 4 of us had our 1911's with us. 2 of us had Colt Gold Cups and one guy had a Colt Gov't model. The Ed Brown would not feed two rounds in a row of any ammo except his factory 230 grain, Remington Ball FMJ which it did feed OK with most of the time. He sent it back to the factory (twice) and they finally fixed it so it would work somewhat reliably with ammo other than the Ball type. They told him that Ed Browns are built to very tight spec's and stated in the instructions to only use factory ammo for reliable feeding. Yes, his Ed Brown was a very finely made, precise and accurate pistol, however my Colt Gold Cup shoots just as well and feeds all my reloads without a hitch.

I have also seen a few auto loaders that have trouble feeding certain sharp shaped bullets even if technically within spec. That is why it is so important to test carry loads extensively before choosing one for SD and test target loads before going into a pistol match.
 
There are exceptions to everything and in some rare instances a Lee factory crimp die may be needed, but generally if you're doing everything right, a taper crimp die is best. Crimp just enough (and no more) to prevent bullet movement under recoil and chambering.
Not picking on anybody, but I disagree that crimp in any way should be relied upon to hold bullets from movement, unless said bullet has a cannelure or crimping groove. In the case of your ammo, neither exists. Properly resized brass is more than sufficient to hold a bullet in place. I’d suggest crimping to .473” and no more.
If memory serves, which gets questionable as i age out, one of the # 68 design purposes was to replicate the contact points of a 230 rn to help ensure reliable feeding seated at a certain col in 5 in 1911's. Gonna agree with others, the bullet is seated too long (relatively way too long). With the original design, have used 1.250-1.257 col. A lot also depends on the specific pistol. Especially since there are numerous other types of 45 acp manufacturers.
zeke has it. Set OAL such that the edge of your bullet contacts feed ramp in the same place that a 230 gr round nose hits.
 
Not picking on anybody, but I disagree that crimp in any way should be relied upon to hold bullets from movement, unless said bullet has a cannelure or crimping groove. In the case of your ammo, neither exists. Properly resized brass is more than sufficient to hold a bullet in place. I’d suggest crimping to .473” and no more.

zeke has it. Set OAL such that the edge of your bullet contacts feed ramp in the same place that a 230 gr round nose hits.
I agree with you that the properly sized case should prevent bullet movement, but a slight taper crimp is just a little added insurance and does not denigrate accuracy in any way. Always do what has proven best for you.
 
I use H&G #68s and and in my Colt Competition they are seated 1.234. For my old Remington Rand 1911A1 they seat 1.255. They both pass the plunk test in those respective barrels so I'm inclined to think the seating depth, at least for #68s depends on the gun.
 
The magazines on your HK what sort of follower shape does it have; flat or rounded? Wonder what that Kimbers magazine had. Anyway, I read somewhere a long time ago that if the ammo you have is not feeding in your 45auto, you should try a magazine with a differently shaped follower. Maybe that's not possible with your HK, so I agree with adjusting the OAL to get that center of balance where it needs to be.
 

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