ppd1107
Member
I recently purchased a 4566TSW. It had a houge rubber grip installed. I would rather have a bit more trigger reach on the pistol then I currently get. If I install a factory grip will my trigger reach be reduced?
4566 houge grip questions
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The web of your hand will probably be closer to the backstrap, and therefore probably allow an easier reach for the trigger, but hand shape can affect this, too.
Also, as a number of our folks have discovered, sometimes if you get your hand closer to the grip frame's tang, and you have a fleshy web-of-the-hand, you might get it pinched (hammer bite) after a few mags have been fired.
Just depends.
Exercise caution re-installing the factory grip, though, to make sure the top of the left/front grip corner doesn't catch under the sideplate and exert upward pressure against it. That's how sideplate legs (prongs around the sear pin on the left side) get tweaked, bent and damaged. That can allow excessive movement of the slideplate up behind the slide stop lever, and that can result in functioning problems.
Also, the top of the factory grip has to be fully pressed forward, up against the bottom of the grip tang, to make sure proper clearance is made for the decocking (manual safety) levers. If the bottom of the lever is blocked by an improperly installed grip, the levers can't move downward as intended. Fortunately, it's usually easy to "fix" by tightly grasping the grip (after it's been installed on the gun), which usually snaps the top of the grip fully forward.
Here's a pistol where the lever is blocked in its downward movement because the grip isn't snugged forward against the top of the frame (the pin punch points to the top/back of the grip and how its not fully forward):
Here's the same grip after its been installed to the top/back of the grip is pushed all the way forward, and now the lever has clearance for full movement when decocking (notice the back of the grip is pretty flush against the frame under the tang):
In one picture of the first pair you can also see how a little more of the sideplate is exposed right behind the part that engages the slide stop lever plunger when the grip isn't fully forward, and then corrected in the next pair of pictures.
Also, make sure the mainspring plunger (hammer spring cup) is properly positioned in the factory grip during the installation ... and the front "hooks" behind the middle leading edge on each side of the grip catches the frame window recess on each side (or the side of the grip will stick out a bit). It's juggling these things that distracts your attention and can sometimes let the sideplate get damaged if the left edge snags under it.
Also, as a number of our folks have discovered, sometimes if you get your hand closer to the grip frame's tang, and you have a fleshy web-of-the-hand, you might get it pinched (hammer bite) after a few mags have been fired.
Just depends.
Exercise caution re-installing the factory grip, though, to make sure the top of the left/front grip corner doesn't catch under the sideplate and exert upward pressure against it. That's how sideplate legs (prongs around the sear pin on the left side) get tweaked, bent and damaged. That can allow excessive movement of the slideplate up behind the slide stop lever, and that can result in functioning problems.
Also, the top of the factory grip has to be fully pressed forward, up against the bottom of the grip tang, to make sure proper clearance is made for the decocking (manual safety) levers. If the bottom of the lever is blocked by an improperly installed grip, the levers can't move downward as intended. Fortunately, it's usually easy to "fix" by tightly grasping the grip (after it's been installed on the gun), which usually snaps the top of the grip fully forward.
Here's a pistol where the lever is blocked in its downward movement because the grip isn't snugged forward against the top of the frame (the pin punch points to the top/back of the grip and how its not fully forward):
Here's the same grip after its been installed to the top/back of the grip is pushed all the way forward, and now the lever has clearance for full movement when decocking (notice the back of the grip is pretty flush against the frame under the tang):
In one picture of the first pair you can also see how a little more of the sideplate is exposed right behind the part that engages the slide stop lever plunger when the grip isn't fully forward, and then corrected in the next pair of pictures.
Also, make sure the mainspring plunger (hammer spring cup) is properly positioned in the factory grip during the installation ... and the front "hooks" behind the middle leading edge on each side of the grip catches the frame window recess on each side (or the side of the grip will stick out a bit). It's juggling these things that distracts your attention and can sometimes let the sideplate get damaged if the left edge snags under it.
Thank you for explaining all of that. I have never messed with the grips that came on my 4566. I have wondered how they come off, and about whether they need cleaning underneath occasionally. The thing that always stops me is the part about how you get them back on.
Driving the grip pin out can be done with a straight (shank) punch and a plastic mallet (or ball peen hammer). Re-installing the grip pin requires a little attention to making sure it enters straight, and it's not uncommon to see a small metal shaving or two
laying under the grip once the pin has been replaced.
Silversmok3
Member
I just did a grip change on my 4566 yesterday. The straight cut grips were just a shade too thin, and with the curved backside my 4566 fits like a glove to me now.
By comparison, my old 4506 with the Hogue grips felt like gripping a brick;the grips felt soft enough, but the Hogues are so wide it made handling the piece extremely awkward.With the Hogue's installed my finger couldn't reach the Double Action trigger with a proper grip on the weapon.At this point I would mention that I do not have small hands, as I can shoot and handle a Beretta 92F pistol like its made for me .
At the time I didn't know about how to change the grips and was poor, so part of the reason I sold that weapon was because I couldn't grip the freakin' thing. Wish I had it back now, but to answer your question yes, 100% , if the Hogues aren't working for you change to the thinner factory grip!
By comparison, my old 4506 with the Hogue grips felt like gripping a brick;the grips felt soft enough, but the Hogues are so wide it made handling the piece extremely awkward.With the Hogue's installed my finger couldn't reach the Double Action trigger with a proper grip on the weapon.At this point I would mention that I do not have small hands, as I can shoot and handle a Beretta 92F pistol like its made for me .
At the time I didn't know about how to change the grips and was poor, so part of the reason I sold that weapon was because I couldn't grip the freakin' thing. Wish I had it back now, but to answer your question yes, 100% , if the Hogues aren't working for you change to the thinner factory grip!
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