5-screw Nickel Chrome

[Mr Barker]

Have what looks like original finish 6 inch with 2026 on webbing behind swing out barrel. Serial number is 6286XX. Looks like it might be 1905-1955 shipping. Has excellent walnut checkered stocks with chrome medallion. Pinned barrel. Can anyone give me more accurate year? Revolver is in really nice shape, some minor scratches, a ding on top strap and behind trigger guard. Curious about market value too. Probably will give it to one of my grandsons, as I got it from my granddad.

Thanks.

 

[DWalt]

You don't tell us much about what you have - caliber? number of chambers in the cylinder? No pictures?

I will take a wild guess and say it is a S&W .38 Special Military and Police model from the early 1930s. But there are other revolvers it could be.

 

[jmace57]

Welcome to the forum. We are going to need some more information. Is it a .38 Special, as would be marked on the barrel? Length of barrel from end of cylinder to muzzle? Is it blue or nickel? Pictures are basically a must for the experts here to estimate value.

Based on the serial number (and the description of the stocks) you provided, it is probably from the 1930s, but suspect that can be narrowed down by the experts here.

 

[fat tom]

Hold on while I go fetch my crystal ball. Welcome to the forum!
f.t.

 

[Watchdog]

Hold on while I go fetch my crystal ball.

My Magic 8 Ball says, "Anything is possible."

 

[murphydog]

Here is a good post for information we need:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-antiques/326458-identify-your-gun.html

Most likely it is what DWalt suggested, a .38 Military & Police from the early 1930s, with fixed or Target rear sight. Might also be a K-22 Outdoorsman in .22 LR.

 

[Mr Barker]

Ok all of you jokers out there. It is a six shot, .38 special. With the half-moon fixed front sight. Has fixed rear sight. Trigger and hammer are not chromed. Ejector type swing out cylinder. Doesn't have the lanyard thingy on the butt. All numbers match, at least the ones I can see. Doesn't have a K or N or other alpha in the serial number nor where you can see when you swing out the cylinder. Just 2026 there. Will take photos of it, keeping in mind that I am not the best photographer. Thanks for your responses. (Except maybe the wise guy with the crystal balls) Wow, didn't expect responses so quickly.

 

[Mr Barker]

It's nickel, 5 screw. Had that in the heading, so didn't repeat it in the message. Be kind. I'm an old guy from a small town in Georgia.

 

[JP@AK]

Mr Barker
If you stick around a while, you will get used to our sense of humor. No one was being mean. We just like to laugh. And the point was we didn't have enough info to be helpful.
From what you have now told us, you have a .38 Military & Police revolver from the 1930s. Someone here may be able to narrow that down within a year or so. I can't.
Nickel finish is less common, but not unknown during this period.
We await your photos. Don't fret too much over quality, just try to make sure they are in focus.
Cheers! And welcome to the Forum.

 

[Mr Barker]

Didn't take it as mean. Just poked back at him. I can take it as well as give it. I used to live in Oklahoma, where the cowboys could dish it out, but had thin skin. Actually, I am from Los Angeles/Orange County CA and got here to God's country as soon as I could. Left the Left Coast AKA the Soviet People's Republic of California and moved to where the air is clean and the sex (can I use four letter words here?) is dirty.
Thanks.

 

[DWalt]

I had it identified in my first response. I have some SNs nearby on my list which shipped in 1930 and 1931, but SNs do not track very well with shipping dates in this time period, indeed, all throughout the Great Depression. Regarding value, at least selling prices at gun shows, etc., an average M&P in good condition from this era will typically be around $400-$450. Without some good pictures, it's not possible to get much closer. Correct stocks for the 1930s will be checkered and have small silver medallions.

 

[Plain Old Dave]

I didn't want to get involved, but at least in East TN $400 is top dollar for a K frame. I gave 189 for my 1899, and 175 for my .32-20. Nice "Model 10s" will only break $250 if either prewar or with the box and implements; an average condition short action K frame service revolver will only break $300 if it's a .357; an average long action K frame is somewhere around $275-300 retail. $400-450 is N frame .357, or MAYBE a nice .32-20 money here, in general. Ask that much for a .38 Special, and you're almost guaranteed one of 3 comments:

Lot of money for a .38.

Too bad it's only a .38/not a .357/ not a .32-20.

What's your bottom dollar?

 

[Göring's S&W]

I didn't want to get involved, but at least in East TN $400 is top dollar for a K frame. I gave 189 for my 1899, and 175 for my .32-20. Nice "Model 10s" will only break $250 if either prewar or with the box and implements; an average condition short action K frame service revolver will only break $300 if it's a .357; an average long action K frame is somewhere around $275-300 retail. $400-450 is N frame money here, in general.

Well....I hope you are buying every S&W in sight I guess if I want to sell my K22 Outdoorsman, K22/40, 1899s, or any of my N frames, I won't drive to TN to sell them!

 

[Plain Old Dave]

I know of several 38-44s that have gathered dust for years in gun shops for this reason. To your average gun person Around Here, a .38 is at best a $200-300 gun. They'll balk at $400, but might pay if "it's got them diamond grips". Maybe, and they will try and get you down as low as possible; "How 'bout three and this break 12 gauge?"