500 Cylinder Rotates During Recoil?

The little envelope that has the label on it with all of the information pertaining to my pistol is dated 9-24-04

What is the chance that this could be one that needs the new cylinder lock spring?

Motor
 
BTW: We installed a new Burris Fastfire III on one of them. A warranty replacement. The old big tube style Burris speed dot was literally blow apart by the 500. We're hoping the Fastfire III will hold up using these less than top end loads.

Motor

That's the only ugly downside of the .500 if you're into optics, it's very destructive of any but the most rugged models.

I don't hunt and prefer mine with issued iron sights. Don
 
This issue was found and corrected relatively early in the 500 production.

It is caused by the cylinder stop spring being too weak in the early guns. When the gun recoils, the cylinder stop is not held in place due to violent recoil. The cylinder comes free of the cylinder stop, but amazingly remains stationary, while the frame essentially rotates 1/5 of a turn around the stationary cylinder during the twisting motion experienced during recoil (you are likely right-handed, but it probably does not matter), leaving the just-fired charge hole next up so that when you cycle the action again you get a click instead of a bang because the hammer is dropping on the charge hole just fired. S&W will replace your spring and you are good to go.

^^^This and not the "Double-Tap" effect others have mentioned. The "Double-Tap" will advance to the next unfired case, not backwards to the previously fired case. In some instances this has resulted in the firing of that next live round by accident while the gun was still in recoil.
 
In every instance that this occurred with our 500's the cylinder was found to be in a reversed position. Not advanced.

Next question.

Should I bother contacting S&W or just order new springs from Brownells for $1.99 each?

Motor
 
I'm lucky enough that I have a friend that is a gun smith so buying the springs and having him put them in seems like the best way to go.

Thanks to everyone who replied.

Motor
 
I have the 500 and it has happened to me, only once after several thousand rounds. After thinking on this for a bit there were several things that i think contributed to the double tap. One is holding on in a "death grip" and holding down the trigger after the shot. The recoil bounced my trigger finger a little bit that allowed the cylinder to advance and thus the second shot. Why the heavy recoil, i shoot, 300, 350, 400 500 and 600 grain bullets and have been testing different loads (i Reload all my 500 ammo). This occurred towards the high end of a 350 grain load. I use H110 (it is cannon powder), FYI IMR4227 is a bit gentler. I was 2 grains of powder off max load so the recoil was overly heavy,(my wrists actually hurt after the shot). So for those of you that reload or shoot max loads, I recommend dialing the powder down a bit. I can feel now when loads are approaching the range where you could double tap, you should never have to hang on for dear life when shooting the 500, if you do your rounds are to powerful.
 
The little envelope that has the label on it with all of the information pertaining to my pistol is dated 9-24-04

What is the chance that this could be one that needs the new cylinder lock spring?

Motor

I'd say replace it and see what happens. I once owned 2 Model 29-2s that had this problem, one with even "mere" full-house 240 gr. loads and the other with bullets 260 gr. and heavier. A replacement extra-power spring cured both. Now, S&W has made other design mods since then to address the issue, but that spring remains critical. A slightly out-of-spec spring would be all it took, and fortunately they are easily replaceable. Heck, the spring itself could be fine, but slightly kinked in its seat. It really doesn't take much.
 
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