I have a S & W 500 magnum and using reloads of 300 gr. bullets, H110 powder and LR primers. The problem I'm having is every so often after firing the brass will not eject properly and I'm having to tap it out. They look as if something is burnt on the outside of the brass causing it not to eject. What might I be doing wrong. I clean the gun after every use but the problem seems to still happen. HELP.
500 magnum reloads
- Thread starter lizrd3354
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Based solely on your description of the brass, it sounds like the load it too light.
How much H110 are you using?
What loading manual did you get your data from?
Are you aware that H110 should NEVER be used to create loads that are below the listed minimums
Based solely on your description of the brass, it sounds like the load it too light.
How much H110 are you using?
What loading manual did you get your data from?
Are you aware that H110 should NEVER be used to create loads that are below the listed minimums
Ditchdigger
Member
I would agree with colt_saa, according to the hornady manual that I have you are under the minimum by a significant amount. Using H110 under book start loads is potentially dangerous.
I would suggest double checking your manual and following what it says. My bets are that your issue will clear up.
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I would suggest double checking your manual and following what it says. My bets are that your issue will clear up.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That load is way too light
What is your projectile? Jacketed? Plated? Cast? Who is the manufacturer?
Are you crimping? H110 likes a heavy crimp
You should be looking this stuff up in reliable, published loading manuals, not trusting loads from unknown strangers on the Internet.
My 500 Magnum light loads are the 300 grain IMI JHP with 44 grains of H110
Ditto on what colt_saa has said. Sounds like powder residue induced.
If your 300gr bullet is plated, like HSM's 300gr P-HP, using very slow powders, like W296/H110, are problematic because there's no cannelure to roll crimp into to ensure powder ignition starts properly.
The same thing applies to the jacketed bullets in colt_saa picture. I believe what he, as well as myself & others use on jacketed bullets w/o a cannelure is Lee's collet crimp die vs. a roll crimp die. Same for Hornady's 300gr XTP for the 50AE, if used with reduced loads below 1400fps.
Moderate speed powders are better for reduced loads, which also allows for deep seating & crimping of the case mouth over to the bullets ogive (~.498") to eliminate jump crimp & ensuring good ignition.
.
HSM 300gr - Acme 330gr for the 500 S&W Mag
(-02b)
.
If your 300gr bullet is plated, like HSM's 300gr P-HP, using very slow powders, like W296/H110, are problematic because there's no cannelure to roll crimp into to ensure powder ignition starts properly.
The same thing applies to the jacketed bullets in colt_saa picture. I believe what he, as well as myself & others use on jacketed bullets w/o a cannelure is Lee's collet crimp die vs. a roll crimp die. Same for Hornady's 300gr XTP for the 50AE, if used with reduced loads below 1400fps.
Moderate speed powders are better for reduced loads, which also allows for deep seating & crimping of the case mouth over to the bullets ogive (~.498") to eliminate jump crimp & ensuring good ignition.
.
HSM 300gr - Acme 330gr for the 500 S&W Mag
(-02b)
.
