586 vs 686

[omega21]

I don't have any revolvers in my collection and am taking steps to mitigate this unfortunate circumstance and would like your help. I know nothing about revolvers except that I want a S&W with 6" or 8" barrel in 38 or 357 (I have fired them plenty in the past just not owned one). I don't fully understand the whole K frame L frame size thing, nor do I truely know the difference between round and square butt. My LGS has a 6" 686 which I really like. I also read about and like the Model 586 in 6" (which my LGS would order for me). Aside from the difference in type of steel and finish I can't really tell the difference between these two guns. Dimentions and weight are practically the same. I like both finishes. Love the full lug. Don't care about the grips since I'll go with aftermarket wood in either case. Price is comparable. Could someone please educate me on the differences between the two models please? Also, if you don't mind, would you comment on the $750 price tag at my LGS on the 686? Is this a fair price?

 

[arjay]

The only difference between the two is the steel used.They are very nice guns,I've owned a few.

 

[fyimo]

The L frame 357 was brought out by S&W to eliminate problems cause by the new lighter 357 bullets like the 125 grain that were causing forcing cone cracks on the K frame 357 magnums. They beefed up the L frame and added the full barrel under lug to provide more weight to also lower the felt recoil from full house 357 magnum rounds.

Between the two 586 or 686 the decison is yours based on taste and at least for me the ease of keeping a shooting gun looking nice as stainless seems to clean up better and look newer longer. That's just a personal thing with me as I find stainless easier to maintain. They are both identical guns made with different material is all.

The 8 inch is really 8 3/8 inch and is a much heavier gun then the 6 inch partly because of the full barrel under lug as you have an extra 2 3/8 inch of both the barrel and underlug.

To me $750 is to much for a 686 with 6 or 8 3/8 inch barrel but then things are sort of at a fever pitch right now in the gun world with the potential pending changes being made so dealers are marking up just about everything from guns to ammo.

 

[omega21]

ok, that's helpful. Would be nice if the S&W site indicated same gun, different materials (although dimentions are slightly different). Had not considered ease of maintenance as a factor so that's a good point. What do you guys think of the price?

 

[sodacan]

Your biggest decision might be whether to buy new or used. The older models, in my opinion are, nicer and better built. You could buy a really nice used one for around $750 or less. Good luck.

 

[arjay]

Have you looked at the older versions of these? A lot of us prefer them over the new ones ( the lock thing),They are cheaper and the value keeps climbing.

 

[omega21]

I had considered buying used but have not seen this model / barrel combo on the sale forum here or elsewhere since I've been looking. What's the internal lock and why is it a problem/concern? So I have some Sig Sauer autos and am familiar with the old/vs new consideration, but why is that a factor here when S&W from 1990 is the same S&W from 2013 - what's the justification for saying the older one's are 'built better'?

 

[arjay]

My own experience has been that the new guns are of high quality and are accurate shooters,but as I got more involved in it I found myself buying the old ones and selling the new.I just found them more appealing.

 

[spad124]

I have a 6" 686 that I purchased new in about 1988. It is a 686-1 to be exact. Incredibly reliable and still accurate after all these years. Also, the stainless steel makes it easier to keep clean.

From a practical standpoint, I think the only difference is which finish you prefer since the cost is the same. You'll get used to any weight difference due to materials. As I recall, back in the late 80s the 586s cost less than the 686s by $50 or so. But then a new 686 cost about $275 so it was somewhat of a significant difference in cost - comparable to about a $150 difference today.

The L frame is a little larger and stronger than the K frame to better handle the stress of extended use of .357s. N frames are even larger and stronger and used for .357s and .44 magnums.

My 686 does not have the lock. From what I've read the lock is supposed to affect the trigger pull and for that reason some people prefer "pre-lock" revolvers. However, two weeks ago I shot a friend's new 625 (.45 acp) with a trigger lock. His revolver's trigger pull was as nice as my 686's. So, maybe early "lock" models had trigger pull problems, but from my experience the other week that isn't the case with newer lock models. Based on that I wouldn't discount a new 686 if I was in the market.

 

[KFrameFan]

I recently traded my new 686-6 6" for a 686 no dash 4", I like the older gun better. My preference is about 50% due to the 4" barrel, and the other 50% split between the fact it has no lock, no mim, and a superb action.

Basically if you end up getting one vs the other you can always(hopefully, with what's going on in Washington ) trade it in or sell it and get what you do want.

Hope you find what your looking for.

KFF

 

[Hillbilly77]

I say get a 586, because everybody knows that stainless guns are ugly.

 

[trex1310]

I bought this unfired, nickle, 6" M-586 for $400. Deals are
out there.

 

[Research Nerd]

I got my 686 4" for $700 online, thought that was a good price. After FFL transfer and taxes was OTD for under $750. I agree with fyimo, I like the look of the stainless.

 

[omega21]

thanks for the great feedback guys! Can someone olease just tell me what MIM is? I see it on this forum all the time.

 

[saemetric]

Metal Injection Molding. Now used vs the older forged parts. MIM is cheaper to produce and more consistant (supposedly).IMHO they don't look as good as forged parts.

 

[les strat]

MIM is what they currently use on the trigger and hammer. Look at pics of Smith revolvers and you can see the grayer mottled look of the MIM and the older ones have the forged "silver" triggers and hammers.

I have a 686 no-dash (dashes = changes made through the years, ex: 686-1, 686-2, etc.) that has no safety lock or MIM parts. I also have a 629 (44mag N frame) that has the lock and MIM parts. Both revolvers have functioned flawlessly and you cannot tell one trigger from the other. I deer hunt with the 44.

BUT.... if it is to be carried for self defense, I would opt for an earlier no-lock as there have been a few cases of them locking up due to recoil. But that's just me. Also, you can remove the lock and plug it with "The Plug" sold here on the S&W forum.

Have fun on your search.

 

[omega21]

Oh, so MIM is on trigger and hammer only. You guys are awesome! I'll post pics once the deal is done. I have to wait till my LGS reopens after the SHOT show and then wait the 7-day (actually 8 in MD) wait period.

 

[lhump1961]

586 or 686...no wrong choice. MIM vs. forged? Again no wrong choice but just a preference. Search the threads using keywords and you will find endless info in this area.

New or used? Everything I have seen on the new S&W revolvers is good. Still have that great action, good looks and lifetime warranty. Having said that my newest revolver is 1994 only because I am older and cranky about all new things! Hammer mounted firing pins, forged parts, no locks, ect. are all things I am used to on a revolver...the new generation of shooters will not concern themselves with such things and love the way they are built today...they will resist the changes yet to come!

The new 586/686 is a fine revolver and you won't do any better than S&W when it comes to fine revolvers...that's just me so take it or leave it.

For me it's the 586. (not that I don't have a 686..)

 

[omega21]

lhump1961, thanks - great looking combat grips.

 

[omega21]

by the way everyone, I have little kids so I want that internal lock if it's like the Taurus and HK internal locks where you turn an allen key and the weapon wont fire.