617-6 dry fire. Again :( But need advice !

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I just purchased my first rimfire 617 revolver at gun show... I have done about 60 - 80 dry fire shots. Excitement plus I tried to understand if I need to fix very hard double action trigger. After that I realized that I had done it to a rimfire gun :( So do I need to be paranoiac or just relax as I had less than hundred shots ?
 
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Welcome! Have a look at the counterbored (recessed) areas of the charge holes; if you do not see any firing pin marks you have...wait for it, wait for it..."dodged a bullet". :)

But use the undented rims of empties or snap caps from now on...enjoy!
 
I keep around 20-30 .22 empties in a baby food jar for just this purpose on my work bench! They work great. My experience has told me that you likely be fine with the inspection of the cylinder. Just don't make it a regular practice as those cylinder indentations can create a series of issues for your revolver and fixing metal work on a revolver isn't necessarily cheap or easy.

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use some yellow wall anchors like the rest of the world as snap caps.

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and congrats on a great gun!
 
I keep around 20-30 .22 empties in a baby food jar for just this purpose on my work bench! They work great. My experience has told me that you likely be fine with the inspection of the cylinder. Just don't make it a regular practice as those cylinder indentations can create a series of issues for your revolver and fixing metal work on a revolver isn't necessarily cheap or easy.

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Those empties are only good for preventing firing pin dings on the chamber recesses for about 3 firing pin strikes each. After that they are pretty much done.

As I have said here before, the hands-down best thing to do for dry-firing without damaging the pin or chamber recess on any gun with an exposed hammer is to cut a foam earplug in half crossways, and stick it down in the rear of the frame covering the firing pin, and dry fire to your heart's content.
Just remember to remove the ear plug when you are done.
 
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The wall anchors are your best bet. They last about 20 strikes before they wear out but they are so cheap they are economical. I do a lot of dry firing on my 617.

A good action job can be had if you watch Jerry Miculec's video on action tuning. 8 pounds is about the best you can do without changing the hammer with an Apex Hammer and replacing just the rebound spring. Keep the main spring tight.

My trigger pull is just at 6 1/2 pounds and the gun is ammo sensitive.

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I just purchased my first rimfire 617 revolver at gun show... I have done about 60 - 80 dry fire shots. Excitement plus I tried to understand if I need to fix very hard double action trigger. After that I realized that I had done it to a rimfire gun :( So do I need to be paranoiac or just relax as I had less than hundred shots ?

YES, FEEL PARANOID AND GUILTY---BUT EXTREMELY GRATEFUL, IF YOU DID NO DAMAGE ! ! !
 
I agree completely. I've never heard of the wall anchor idea or this ear plugs set up but both sound like solid cheap performers!
Those empties are only good for preventing firing pin dings on the chamber recesses for about 3 firing pin strikes each. After that they are pretty much done.

As I have said here before, the hands-down best thing to do for dry-firing without damaging the pin or chamber recess on any gun with an exposed hammer is to cut a foam earplug in half crossways, and stick it down in the rear of the frame covering the firing pin, and dry fire to your heart's content.
Just remember to remove the ear plug when you are done.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 
Thanks All for you advices, help and info !

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Do you think these marks on my cylinder have been developed from the dry fire or it is just how they manufacture it now ?
 
Second the motion on the yellow drywall anchors, I've used those in my 617 since new. I doubt you did any real damage by dry firing your gun "a little bit." Get some decent ammo, take it out & shoot it. If they go bang, you're good. Just don't make a habit of it. I keep at least 10 of those drywall anchors in the 617's case; sometimes they stay in the cylinder.

You're going to like that gun.
 
Thanks All for you advices, help and info !

0_q8SC5XpQsEfk8jNMB67K6LA


Do you think these marks on my cylinder have been developed from the dry fire or it is just how they manufacture it now ?

I don't see any dry fire damage on your pic. You would see a small dent at 12:00 on the charge hole recess, Look at all of them though. I also use yellow anchors. This is what damage actually looks like.
 

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Definitely from dry firing. Always have snap caps or anchors in the cylinder when dry firing and you will have no problems. The peening from your firing pin will eventually damage the cylinder and make extraction harder.
 
Hate to sound like this but this is a perfect example of what happens when the instruction manual isn't read first...

Furthermore guys....

You won't see any peening on the cylinder with the newer 617's from excessive dry firing. That occurs on the older 617's that had the aluminum cylinder. The damage happens on the firing pin itself. Use 22 cal snap caps or drywall anchors but it's generally a well known "no-no" to dry fire most rimfires.
 
Visible Damage Evidence??

Perhaps I've been lucky or sheltered, but I have never seen peening damage on a cylinder or breech face of a quality rimfire weapon. Would not a properly designed striker/ firing pin bottom out on its shoulder in the striker channel or frame channel? It doesn't make sense for a firing mechanism to be designed for excessive hammer or striker fall to protrude the firing pin far enough from the breech face to strike the cylinder. It could crush and rupture the case rim. I'm going to measure firing pin protrusion on a few of my S&W rimfire revolvers to see if this catastrophe can occur. My suspicion is that it cannot, the hammer or striker fall being arrested by the frame channel or striker channel.
 
From S&W's web site:

Q: Can I dry fire my Smith & Wesson?

A: Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 22A, 22S, 422, 2206, 2214, 2213 and 41.

.22 caliber revolvers such as models 17, 43, 63, 317 and 617 also should not be dry fired.

Q: Why can't I dry fire my .22 pistol or revolver?

A: Dry firing a S&W .22 pistol or revolver will cause damage to the firing pin.

On the other hand, the old instruction sheet that came with the K22s, Model 17s and Model 18s said this:

"Practice "dry shooting" with empty gun."

I have never used snap caps, wall anchors, or any other similar device, preferring instead to trust the factory. I have been dry firing my K22 (without wall anchors or snap caps) since the 1960s with no ill effects.

I always understood, from talking to the factory about this, that the frame mounted firing pin was designed not to protrude through the bolster face enough to strike the shoulder of the charge holes in the cylinder.

That said, don't do what I do. Do what the current factory advice says on their web site.
 
CARRY ON, WITH THE DRY WALL ANCHORS.

Did you mess up, YES but you aren't the first & won't be the last. ;) It won't help the firing pin but balancing a coin on the barrel during dry firing does wonders for a smooth double action trigger pull. (The only way I like to fire mine.) Keep building up the arm/hand muscles. :)
 
Akinak, expect really tight chambers as well. Bring a cleaning rod to pop out stuck cases
 
I don't dry fire my Model 17. It's a 1959 gun and when I bought it I removed the firing pin as part of the detailed cleaning. What I found was the firing pin retaining pin was broken in two from repeated dry firing. Use some sort of snap cap.
 
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