617 No Dash light primer strikes

[*chris*]

I recently picked up a very new looking S&W 617 6 shot revolver. As I do with many of my S&W revolvers I replaced the rebound spring and mainspring with a Wolff reduced power spring set. Right now I am getting around 50% FTF and am not sure what the cause is. Double action is certainly worse than shooting it single action. I am using CCI SV ammunition.

My other 617, which was shot a lot more before I bought it, functioned perfectly with this combination of springs. Is the problem that my revolver is just broken in enough for these springs? What do I look for in terms of binding? I haven't looked at the strain screw to see if the previous user(s) modified them in any way but it looked normal. Does anyone know the factory length of this strain screw so I can measure mine?

Thanks

Chris

 

[Sparks]

I recently picked up a very new looking S&W 617 6 shot revolver.

Looks great, but what is the actual run number - such as 617-X?

As I do with many of my S&W revolvers I replaced the rebound spring and mainspring with a Wolff reduced power spring set.

Spring manufacturers love you. Just because they make these sets available, doesn't mean it is a good idea to put them in.

Right now I am getting around 50% FTF and am not sure what the cause is.

Could it be that you just reduced the amount of hammer energy that strikes the firing pin???

Double action is certainly worse than shooting it single action.

Worse? Like any other revolver, double action requires a longer pull and and more effort. Why not put the old springs back in and evaluate the revolver for a month or two? A good rule of thumb: you can't change one thing without affecting a lot of other things. That's the way it is.

-Sparks

 

[tomcatt51]

The Wolff reduced power mainspring works fine, the problem is that the stock strain screw is frequently not long enough for that spring. Get a 1/2" (3/8" may work) long 8-32 socket set screw. Replace your original strain screw with it. Adjust it so you get reliable ignition. Use a little 290 Loctite to secure it once you get it where everything works. Once you have reliable ignition you can play with rebound springs. The rebound spring will have no effect on hammer fall / ignition.

 

[*chris*]

The Wolff reduced power mainspring works fine, the problem is that the stock strain screw is frequently not long enough for that spring. Get a 1/2" (3/8" may work) long 8-32 socket set screw. Replace your original strain screw with it. Adjust it so you get reliable ignition. Use a little 290 Loctite to secure it once you get it where everything works. Once you have reliable ignition you can play with rebound springs. The rebound spring will have no effect on hammer fall / ignition.

That makes sense, I will try that. I will also look to see if the strain screw was modified.

Sparks, it is a no-dash model. It shoots great with the factory springs, but the trigger pull is dreadfully heavy for target work.

Chris

 

[*chris*]

Finally got a chance to take the revolver apart, it is very strange, the end of the strain screw is peened flat. The revolver looks new, is this bubba gunsmithing or just a lot of shooting with care? Does anyone know how long a stock square butt strain screw should be? I have the set screw, but I just placed a little brass shim, a fired .22 case, over the strain screw to see if it increases tension enough to fire reliability.

Brownells and Midway is out of strain screws, where else can I look?

Thanks

Chris

 

[SweetMK]

Lowes will have that set screw. (or Home Depot)

 

[S&W1006]

Tomcatt nailed it. I put the Wolff springs on my 617 and I had to do the same thing. I love the Wolff springs I run them on all my revolvers and I change out the stock strain screw for the allen head set screw. Put just a drop of blue loctite on it to keep it in place but it can still be adjusted. I start light and tighten 1\2 turn until I have reliable ignition with the ammo I am using.

 

[tomcatt51]

it is very strange, the end of the strain screw is peened flat.

Not unusual and part of the reason I replace the strain screw with an 8-32 socket set screw. Socket set screws are grade 8. The stock strain screw seems to be a poorly chosen combination of alloy and heat treat. ONLY the SS strain screws do this, the blued ones don't.

 

[*chris*]

Not unusual and part of the reason I replace the strain screw with an 8-32 socket set screw. Socket set screws are grade 8. The stock strain screw seems to be a poorly chosen combination of alloy and heat treat. ONLY the SS strain screws do this, the blued ones don't.

I am super anal about keeping things stock, but I hear you loud and clear the second time. I already have the setscrew and will install it once the weather breaks. Interesting that the stainless doesn't hold up to the pressure, you would think the engineers at S&W would have thought about it. Now I know why my Mech Eng father only used stainless when he had to, too many compromises.

Thanks.

Chris