I'm getting a few misfires with my 625 and my reloads. I'm cleaning my mixed head stamp brass and using CCI primers and will get one or two misfires per box (50). It looks like the primer is getting a light strike with the firing pin. Most rounds get a deep dent in the primer. I bought the gun used, do you think the main spring could have been changed? The trigger feels similar to my S&W 1911 when I shoot in single action. Any suggestions?
625-8 Having misfires with reloads
- Thread starter 686forme
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Tighten your strain screw. Lots of guys think this is an adjustment for a kitchen table action job but it is not!
Dale53
Member
I have replaced my S&W firing pins with "long" firing pins from Apex Tactical:
https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid4.html
Dale53
https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid4.html
Dale53
sctman800
Member
I would check the strain screw first and if it is tight I would suspect the main spring has been changed or altered. One other thing that comes to mind; if it has been shooting a lot of lead it could need a good cleaning. Ken158 is correct, some people think the strain screw is an adjustment. I tried it myself, that is how I know it doesn't work. I have a 625-8JM and had the same light strike problem you described. I retightened the strain screw and have never had another light strike. Jim.
KurtC
Member
Some options:
1. Make sure the strain screw is tight.
2. Install an extended firing pin.
3. Use Federal Primers.
1. Make sure the strain screw is tight.
2. Install an extended firing pin.
3. Use Federal Primers.
ronnie gore
Member
misfires
i had the same problem with a thunder ranch 45 acp revolver. i tried a longer firing pin and it did not help, the strain screw was tight, but it looked like the screw did not go in as far as it should, so i removed a small amount of metal from under the screw head in a lathe and never had another problem, you could also use an extra power spring.
i have seen the side plate bind on the hammer slowing it enough to cause misfires. just remove the side plate and take the mainspring out and reinstall the side plate, then work the hammer to see it it binds any.
i had the same problem with a thunder ranch 45 acp revolver. i tried a longer firing pin and it did not help, the strain screw was tight, but it looked like the screw did not go in as far as it should, so i removed a small amount of metal from under the screw head in a lathe and never had another problem, you could also use an extra power spring.
i have seen the side plate bind on the hammer slowing it enough to cause misfires. just remove the side plate and take the mainspring out and reinstall the side plate, then work the hammer to see it it binds any.
Strain screw
Remove the grips and it is the screw inside the grip frame. Tighten it all the way down, tight! How light does the DA trigger pull feel? If the main spring has been replaced or bent it will be around 7lbs. If it is stock it will be 12lbs+. Somewhere around 9 lbs should work on your CCI primers, the hardest of all the primer manufacturers! ! If you have tightened the strain spring screw and the DA pull is still light install a fired primer cup over the strain screw which will be between the screw end and the flat main spring or replace the main spring with a new one. Email me, I have a box full of main springs!
jcelect SWCA#LM723
Remove the grips and it is the screw inside the grip frame. Tighten it all the way down, tight! How light does the DA trigger pull feel? If the main spring has been replaced or bent it will be around 7lbs. If it is stock it will be 12lbs+. Somewhere around 9 lbs should work on your CCI primers, the hardest of all the primer manufacturers! ! If you have tightened the strain spring screw and the DA pull is still light install a fired primer cup over the strain screw which will be between the screw end and the flat main spring or replace the main spring with a new one. Email me, I have a box full of main springs!
jcelect SWCA#LM723
PLINKING.40
Member
hope not.!
I just got a 625 PC .45acp,(10 day Jail) and I use WIN primers in My Dillon(recommended) does anybody think I might get light Strikes and misfires with that Combo...? not to Hijack Bro.Thanks
I just got a 625 PC .45acp,(10 day Jail) and I use WIN primers in My Dillon(recommended) does anybody think I might get light Strikes and misfires with that Combo...? not to Hijack Bro.Thanks
+1.
Also make sure you are not using any bent moon clips.
Make sure your primers are seated all the way.
Make sure there is no fowling under the ejector star.
Make sure you are not using a roll crimp.
You can use a 8/32x3/8" or 8/32x0.5" set screw instead of a strain screw to fine tune your DA trigger pull. After it is set use a drop of blue Loctite to keep it from backing off. As others have said a DA pull of at least 9 lb is needed to assure no misfires. I have found 8 lb is good with Federal primers though.
GCF
Member
To be clear, are you seeing mostly heavy primer strikes, & only A FEW light strikes?
If this is the case, I'd think it unlikely that you have a spring problem. With a reduced power (or modified) spring, I'd expect ALL light strikes - unless of course something is bent, or you have a heck of a powder / bullet lube build up.
With intermittent light strikes, I'd be looking for bent clips, inconsistent brass, or something binding the hammer. Bent firing pin, perhaps?
Much as I hate to suggest it, you might try a super cleaning on the cylinder (forcing cone too), & then load 50 or 100 pieces of NEW brass - all sized & trimmed the same.
goldenlight
Member
Lots of good advice.
I would also stress that CCI primers are one of my LAST choices, as they are HARD.
I have a range revolver that is 100% reliable with Remington, Winchester, or Federal primers. It has a 'reduced power' mainspring.
One time i bought some CCI primers, and I got 5 to 10% failures to fire.
The ones that fire LOOKED like they have a good primer strike, because the primer pushes back against the firing pin at the instant of ignition.
The ones that didn't ignite had 'light strikes'.
Making sure you have a full power mainspring is the first thing I would do.
Buy a new one if there is ANY doubt: they aren't very expensive:
Wolff Gunsprings - Firearm Springs for Semi-Auto Pistols, Revolvers, Rifles, & Shotguns or get one right from S&W.
Next time you buy primers, if at all possible, try to use one of either Federal, Winchester, or Remington.
Doing both of these thing will virtually guarantee better reliability with your reloads.
One last thing: is there ANY chance that some of your primers aren't FULLY seated (bottomed out) in the primer pocket?
This can cause 'light strikes', as the energy of the hammer is wasted because the anvil isn't resting on the bottom of the primer pocket.
Really dirty (more than 5 or 10 times reloaded) primer pockets can prevent the primers from fully seating, causing 'light strikes', too
I clean primer pockets every 6 to 8 times I reload, to avoid this.
Good luck!
I would also stress that CCI primers are one of my LAST choices, as they are HARD.
I have a range revolver that is 100% reliable with Remington, Winchester, or Federal primers. It has a 'reduced power' mainspring.
One time i bought some CCI primers, and I got 5 to 10% failures to fire.
The ones that fire LOOKED like they have a good primer strike, because the primer pushes back against the firing pin at the instant of ignition.
The ones that didn't ignite had 'light strikes'.
Making sure you have a full power mainspring is the first thing I would do.
Buy a new one if there is ANY doubt: they aren't very expensive:
Wolff Gunsprings - Firearm Springs for Semi-Auto Pistols, Revolvers, Rifles, & Shotguns or get one right from S&W.
Next time you buy primers, if at all possible, try to use one of either Federal, Winchester, or Remington.
Doing both of these thing will virtually guarantee better reliability with your reloads.
One last thing: is there ANY chance that some of your primers aren't FULLY seated (bottomed out) in the primer pocket?
This can cause 'light strikes', as the energy of the hammer is wasted because the anvil isn't resting on the bottom of the primer pocket.
Really dirty (more than 5 or 10 times reloaded) primer pockets can prevent the primers from fully seating, causing 'light strikes', too
I clean primer pockets every 6 to 8 times I reload, to avoid this.
Good luck!
Yup, I'm getting a light hit on one round only out of a group of six in a moon clip. I've not cleaned the gun throughly as suggested so I'll give that a try too. I did tighten the strain screw about 3/4's of a turn. I don't think it made much difference in trigger pull. I'm also going to see if I can borrow a trigger pull scale to see where I am. In single action it feels light and very smooth. I have several 686's and a 617 and this gun feels lighter in trigger pull.
I've wondered about the mixed brass possibly being the problem. I have some loads that I made up a few weeks ago where I separated the head stamps. I'll try those the next time at the range. Thanks very much for the suggestions.
I had light strikes with my gun using winchester white box 230 gr. FMJ. I checked the strain screw and it was tight. It did have a master action job done by the performance center. I sent mine back to Smith and wesson. Is this a common problem with this gun?
GCF
Member
Tightening the main spring strain screw 3/4 of a turn will most likely solve your misfire issue. That will make a significant difference in impact.
scott625b
Member
Typically, an action job with Winchester primers is a recipe for light strikes. All my competition revolvers use Federal Primers or in a pinch, Remington Primers. Winchester and CCI are too hard and are not reliable when used with revolvers that have an action job.
ErnieDeBord
Member
If I had ANY firearm like that..........It would be History
cyberiad
Member
One thing that would be interesting to know is whether the headstamp is the same for all the misfires. I have a "tuned" Model 67 with which I experience misfires on occasion. I've found that all of them have been with R-P brass and, further, that it appears I can actually push a primer so far in to a piece of R-P brass (usng a Dillon 550) that I can induce a misfire quite easily. I have taken to segregating all my R-P brass and since then have had no misfires. I load the R-P brass at the end of a loading session and I try to use much less force when pushing the primer in. It seems to me that the primer pockets are slightly larger and perhaps deeper than other brass.
I've asked other shooters I know whether it's possible to insert a primer too deeply and no one thought it was possible. Given my experience I think it is.
I've asked other shooters I know whether it's possible to insert a primer too deeply and no one thought it was possible. Given my experience I think it is.
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