rounds not firing

No, heck no. Going to try factory ammo this weekend, but have been wanting more knowledge of the revolver's insides. Also going to see if those two rounds from last weekend will fire in my Colt Agent.

OK, just checking:D

It's either operator error, ammunition, mechanical, primers, mainspring, firing pin, firing pin spring, yolk/crane play or something else.;)
 
Shot a box of factory (remington) .38 special rounds through it this weekend, along with about 150 rounds of my reloads and about a half box of winchester .357 mag rounds. It failed to fire on one round of the .357 mag. My only other revolver shoots only .38 special, so could not try that round in it.
The more I shoot the model 13, the more impressed with it I am. And after shooting a cylinder worth of .38 special through the Colt Agent, the more I appreciate the larger frame.
Can't wait to get my Model 65.
 
I once owned a 65 that had an action job done on it. The springs had been replaced (main and trigger return) to lighten the pull in double action.Using CCI primers in this gun caused me to have many misfires.CCI stuff was not as sensitive and I had failed to fire issues on 2-3 out of every hundred. I found that by reloading with federal primers I could get 100% ignition on all loads. Over time I decided to replace the springs back to the factory originals and the problem went away. I never had an issue using the gun single action.I have watched and meaured the hammer on all my double actions as it comes back in double action and I swear it doesn't quite come back as far in single. If nothing else,I believe the mainspring doesn't get as much stored energy as it does in single. Good luck as nothing is more agrevating than a gun that doesn't work properly 100% of the time.:(
 
Wish I had thought about trying it single-action mode on the rounds that did not fire this weekend and previously.
Next step - not sure yet. The mechanical mind in me says just replace the mainspring and see if it stops. The analytical mind wants to continue to mess with ammo options and see if it is related to the primers.
Need to find a service manual on S&W revolvers. I can break down my 1911s and other semi-autos pretty well, but not sure about tearing down this revolver. The exploded view someone sent me from Brownings was useful, but still need to figure out how one would replace the spring.
 
about tearing down this revolver. The exploded view someone sent me from Brownings was useful, but still need to figure out how one would replace the spring.

Me;)

One does not "tear down" a revolver:)

It is very easy to replace the mainspring if you really want to.
Even a Caveman can do it.

The rebound spring is a little trickier but still easy. It has nothing to do with igniting the primer.

The main thing you need to take apart a revolver is GOOD gunsmith screwdrivers so you do not bugger the screws.

This is the best video (IMO) out there, It is actually about removing the lock but the first part shows taking off the side plate and how to remove the mainspring.

You can buy a new spring at Midway or direct from Wolff Springs (I get mine there)

S&W Internal Lock Removal - YouTube
 
67tempest mentioned "Debris in the flash hole would not keep the primer from firing." While this is true, the primer would ignite, the debris can cause the powder to not burn. Had a friend load a batch of ammo, brass tumbled without primers, he experienced a lot of problems. When he pulled the defective rounds, kernels of walnut shell had blocked the flash hole.
 
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