629-1 - Hammer Slightly Catching on the Bolt Slide

[fatnecks]

Hey all:

First post here. I've had a 629-1 for a few years now that I use for deer hunting. Well, I try anyway, hasn't happened yet with this hardware.

Anyway, I've been having an issue with the cylinder release sticking. I took it all apart for a good cleaning, found some good videos, and got it all back together. The issue isn't with the bolt, it's with the center pin. With the cylinder off and in my hand, it's sticky and hangy when I try to push the contacting knob that contacts the bolt on the rear side of the cylinder. Seems like a lot of folks talk about the plunger in the barrel lug, but this seems like it's the extractor rod and center pin assembly. Once you get it broken loose, it's fine and moves freely. But the initial push is tough. It seems that the extractor rod and the center pin are screwed together, but I'm not sure how I'm going to hang on to them to disassemble without marring both or either of them. Anyone got any tips?

Also, I've now got another issue. When I put all the guts back together, the hammer now has a very slight hang on what is apparently called the "bolt" or the slide mechanism that the thumb release is attached to. It can be overcome and it will cycle, but it's "hitch" and it wasn't there before. Very noticable on a DA trigger pull. Tips on this? Pretty sure it went back together correctly, so this one has me a bit stumped as to why it isn't riding now where it was riding before.

Thanks in advance!

 

[series guy]

If the center pin is hanging up it won’t push the bolt all the way back. You need to unscrew the ejector rod. ( left hand threads ) and remove the center pin and springs and clean everything thoroughly. Many lubes especially WD40 will harden over time. While things are apart make certain that nothing is bent. Lube the parts lightly and reassemble. Your issue should be gone.

 

[fatnecks]

I don't *think* it's hung up short.... But I could be wrong. I'm not sure how I'm going to get the center pin unscrewed from the extractor. I saw a thread where one guy said he used the speed chuck on a cordless drill (just as a means to grip it, not to actually do the work), which seems like a great idea. But I don't know how I'm going to grab the other end without marring it. I've got 73 pairs of pliers and channel locks and vise grips, but I think all that stuff will chew it up. I'd love any suggestions that anyone might have.

 

[DT75]

I have used a small piece of heavy leather bent around the knurled part of the ejector rod, and pliers, with success in the past.
Putting empty cases in the cylinder is advisable as well.

As mentioned above, remember it's left hand threads.

 

[fatnecks]

I have used a small piece of heavy leather bent around the knurled part of the ejector rod, and pliers, with success in the past.
Putting empty cases in the cylinder is advisable as well.

As mentioned above, remember it's left hand threads.

When I took the extractor rod out of the cylinder, I wrapped the knurled area of the extractor tightly with masking tape and then squeezed it in a vise. I still had to squeeze it harder than I would have liked. The threads between the cylinder and the extractor rod are left hand, but are the theads between the center pin and the extractor rod LH also?

Thanks!

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

BTW, you will NOT be unscrewing the center pin from anything. You will be unscrewing the extractor rod from the extractor.

Re-read post #4, about a piece of heavy leather, empty cases, and LH thread. There are also special tools for the job, and some folks use the chuck on a drill, but heavy leather is easier and perhaps safer, if you are careful.

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

You have been VERY lucky. DO NOT rely on masking tape. Use heavy leather , buy the tool, or go to a gunsmith.

Put the gun down and go get an illustrated parts breakdown and a piece of heavy leather before you pick the gun up again.

 

[DT75]

The center pin should move freely inside the extractor rod, no threads there.
If the pin is stuck in the rod you've most likely found the cause of your issue.

 

[fatnecks]

Thanks to all your advice and another video I found, the issue has been identified and resolved, at least for now. To address some of the above comments, I did find several illustrated parts diagrams. However, my center pin didn't come out of the extractor, thus I thought the two were intentionally assembled together, which an old parts drawing really isn't going to show that well. After reading posts here and finding another video where a guy pulled the extractor rod and it all came apart on him, it occurred to me what was going on.

The front end of the center pin was mushroomed out so badly that the lip of the mushroom was restricting its travel and thus keeping him stuck in the extractor. I was able to stick it out just far enough to get a small jeweler's file around the OD and get it squared up enough that it slides very nicely now and comes apart as it should. Action is great and it runs like a top again. Gonna start checking around and get a replacement center pin coming this way and plan to install it after hunting season. If all goes to plan, I'll only have to make one shot with this thing on the old, worked over pin and then I'll have all the time I need.... ;P

Thanks again for all your help!

 

[stansdds]

Thanks to all your advice and another video I found, the issue has been identified and resolved, at least for now. To address some of the above comments, I did find several illustrated parts diagrams. However, my center pin didn't come out of the extractor, thus I thought the two were intentionally assembled together, which an old parts drawing really isn't going to show that well. After reading posts here and finding another video where a guy pulled the extractor rod and it all came apart on him, it occurred to me what was going on.

The front end of the center pin was mushroomed out so badly that the lip of the mushroom was restricting its travel and thus keeping him stuck in the extractor. I was able to stick it out just far enough to get a small jeweler's file around the OD and get it squared up enough that it slides very nicely now and comes apart as it should. Action is great and it runs like a top again. Gonna start checking around and get a replacement center pin coming this way and plan to install it after hunting season. If all goes to plan, I'll only have to make one shot with this thing on the old, worked over pin and then I'll have all the time I need.... ;P

Thanks again for all your help!

Sounds to me like the center pin was too long. It could have come from the factory too long or someone along the way changed pins for some reason and neglected the proper fitting of the new pin.

 

[fatnecks]

That's an interesting thought. I've done a couple of quick searches for these pins. Some of the ones that are available specify a barrel length and some seem like they'll supposedly work for any N frame. Gonna pick up the phone and talk to someone in the know before I order the replacement.

 

[ken158]

That's an interesting thought. I've done a couple of quick searches for these pins. Some of the ones that are available specify a barrel length and some seem like they'll supposedly work for any N frame. Gonna pick up the phone and talk to someone in the know before I order the replacement.

New center pins come long and are suppose to be fitted. Check youtube for video or ask here and you may receive photos of how to find proper length and filing excess.

 

[firebreather]

New center pins come long and are suppose to be fitted. Check youtube for video or ask here and you may receive photos of how to find proper length and filing excess.

Learn something new everyday. I've replaced a few and never had to fit one, just lucky I guess.

 

[steelslaver]

The end of the ejector rod and the center pin are both fitted pieces. Many brand new revolvers have the tip of the ejector rod in the white as they were filed down during final fitting. The ejector rod has to be short enough to clear the lug cleanly when closing, to long and it binds on the lug, then the center pin needs to just clear the tip of the rod when the ratchet end is pressed flat to the center button of ratchet. The hole in tip of rod also needs a tiny bevel, which I give by holding a small drill bit in my fingers and twirling it on the end with a bit of pressure. Just enough to break the sharp shoulders around the hole a bit so the pin works easy and the lug rides in and out smooth