I purchased a 29-10 6.5 a couple of months ago for hiking / back packing with the wife in the Frank Church wilderness here in Idaho. But that damn thing was too pretty and a real bitch to keep clean. "Don't use Hoppes for the love of Pete you'll ruin the blueing" is what I wish someone would have told me. My Grandpas 29-2 was and still is tougher than nails and had zero issues using anything to clean it. Props to S&W for their willingness to re-blue the gun free of charge shipping included and thank you gun broker for almost getting my money back. So next up is my new 629-6. I love the look of it but didn't want the shine so my next purchase was a sandblast cabinet to arrive in a week or so. Here is my before and I'll make sure to load an after when the work is done. Oh and as for the 29-? someday? It'll happen but when it does it'll be one of the oldies.
629-6 stainless to matte silver
- Thread starter Jimmys&w
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""Don't use Hoppes for the love of Pete you'll ruin the blueing" is what I wish someone would have told me."
Tell us more, I've been using Hoppes on blue guns for 50 years and they still look like new. Although I must admit I've never had a 29-10.
Jeff
SWCA #1457
Tell us more, I've been using Hoppes on blue guns for 50 years and they still look like new. Although I must admit I've never had a 29-10.
Jeff
SWCA #1457
The blueing on the new guns is not the same as the old guns. I'm not sure when they changed it but I can assume it was an EPA mandate. Prior to this new 29-10 I've owned blued shotguns and rifles and used hoppes due to it's cleaning ability and damn it I'll say it. The smell. Do some googling and you'll see I'm not the only one.
Benchrest1
Member
Not only is the blueing that S&W uses now is different, but Hoppes isn't the same as it use to be.
Something doesn't add up here. You're saying that S&W changed their bluing process and that if we clean newer guns with Hoppes it will damage/remove the finish. . . .but that's ok because S&W will re-blue them for free? And S&W isn't putting anything in their packaging to say not to use Hoppes?
Seems very odd. . . . .
Jeff
SWCA #1457
I can read what you're implying and I'll take that with a grain of salt.
I inquired with S&W about using Hoppes and Renaissance Wax. Their reply
Hoppes:
An ingredient you should stay away from is Ammonia or the byproduct of ammonia. This will eat away at the finish and material. Its very corrosive. Just stick to the basics, use a minimal lubrication and wipe it down, wipe off your fingerprints, which is also not good for your firearm, due to the salt in your sweat. Keep your firearm in a humidity and temp control environment. Use SAAMI Spec ammo.
^^^
Hoppes #9 Solvent is made from kerosene, ethyl alcohol, oleic acid, amyl acetate and ammonium hydroxide <-- uh oh!
Renaissance Wax:
This product has abrasive silicone that will remove the bluing off your firearm. Its not intended to be used in anything that has a finish on it. If you have splotches on your firearm, after rebluing, and you have been using this product, this could be the reason.
Now the Hoppes I can see but the Renaissance Wax? Come on man that stuff puts an awesome shine on my gun!
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Had a blast.
I had a blast!
But seriously folks I love the way it turned out. I ended up using Glass Bead AH 170-325. I broke down the gun completely to include removing the ejector rod from the cylinder and the rear sight. After the blasting I blew the gun out completely, used a toothbrush to remove any sticky stuck stuff and blew it out again. I used the opportunity to watch a nice break down video and lubed up all the parts that needed it as well. All in all it was a great way to spend part of a Saturday.
I had a blast!
But seriously folks I love the way it turned out. I ended up using Glass Bead AH 170-325. I broke down the gun completely to include removing the ejector rod from the cylinder and the rear sight. After the blasting I blew the gun out completely, used a toothbrush to remove any sticky stuck stuff and blew it out again. I used the opportunity to watch a nice break down video and lubed up all the parts that needed it as well. All in all it was a great way to spend part of a Saturday.
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I question this. All of my research about Renaissance Wax is that it does NOT contain silicone.
I sent an email this weekend...and placed a post here about same...that the bluing on the new 29 I bought in February seemingly cannot be made right.
I did buy a bottle of Hoppe's Elite for this gun, although it hasn't been fired yet so no cleaning has been needed yet. I read something in the manual about ammonia products.
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Pisgah
Member
S&W does not specifically say "don't use Hoppe's", but the current manual does warn against using any ammoniated or other alkaline cleaner -- and that would include Hoppe's #9 and others.
Hoppes 9 is mostly kerosene , mineral oil , 1% ammonium hydroxide (watered down ammonia )
As it applies to the Renaissance Wax I'm right there with you. In fact before I sold the 29 after getting it back from S&W to get it reblued I waxed it. And it was beautiful.
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