638 vs. Model 38

There have been reports of the lock "locking" while the revolver was being fired. Lock vs. no lock is a quick way to start a long argument that never seems to be resolved. For sure, the lock hole provides an access point for crud to get into the works of the firearm. For some, it's just a matter of aesthetics. All of my Smiths are pre-lock, but I would not be afraid to carry a lock version.
 
My mod 38 developed a cracked frame just below the barrel forcing come. Was fortunate to get a replacement 638 from S&W. I purchased the 38 new and fired only standard velocity 38 (very few rounds fired). Saw on the internet that some mod 38 barrels were installed incorrectly which caused the frame to crack. Miss my 38.
 
I prefer the no-lock 642 over the other J-Frames. Got to wondering about weights myself. I weighed a modern 642 no-lock and old pre model 37 . The old pre 37 weighed 13.9 oz. and the modern 642 weighed 15.7 oz. on my digital scale. For some reason I assumed the new 642 would be lighter.
As for any mechanical reason to stay away from the S&W revolvers with the internal lock, some problems have been reported. I've only owned one, a 686 SSR. Mine worked fine during the short time I owned it. I examined the internal lock while I had it. It appeared to me that if there was a failure of the lock mechanism, the mechanism would default to the locked position. It also appeared that when unlocked, the revolver was maintained in the unlocked by a tiny hair wire spring. I would have thought that a lock failure would most appropriately default to the fire position, but that's probably not the way that S&W's attorneys looked at it....ymmv

And yea, Collectors hate the lock, as do a lot of average shooters like me....
 
I have carried my satin nickel model 38-2 .38 Spl. for about 20 years and felt very comfortable knowing it was with me and only weighed 14.3 ounces. A couple of years ago, I purchased a 340PD, 357 Mag. and only 11 ounces. With magnum rounds, it's pretty rough and not allowing for a quick follow up shot, but it will shoot .38s all day long. Now, my wife carries the 38 and I carry the 340PD, she likes the satin nickel finish. Both revolvers are excellent pocket guns. The 638 seems to be a copy of my original 38-2.
 
I prefer the 638 because it is less likely to corrode from perspiration, etc. Although yours does not have the internal lock, I would not let that stop me. Those internal locks are easy to remove, and proper removal (take it ALL out) leaves a really nice "oil application port" for that once every few years drop of oil for the lockwork. :)
 
Is there any mechanical reason to stay away from a revolver that has a lock built in, or is it just a collectibility issue? I just don't use the lock.
With over half a million revolvers made with the lock in the last 15 years the answer is "no". If there ever was a problem, don't you think they would of fixed it in 15 years? Your chances of having a lock failure is right up there with seeing the Tooth Fairy and the Easter Bunny having tea with Big Foot.

Actually, there are a number things that can break and lock-up a revolver. Things that happen with some measurable frequency. Like a hammer stud unexpectedly snapping off. But no one ever sites those as reasons not to carry a S&W revolver. Realistically, the chances of these failures is infinitesimal, and they effect ALL guns.
 
My EDC used to consist of a Model 642, a folding knife on my belt, and an 8 round speed strip. After I had an unfriendly incident with a pair of Boxers (dogs), and once I had pulled my head out of my backside, I changed my EDC to a Model 38-0 and a Model 638-1 aka the New York Reload. These two revolvers were as close as I had to a matched pair in my collection. Both are loaded with the same, standard velocity ammo, and both are equipped with Crimson Trace LG-405 laser grips. Of the two, I much prefer the Model 638 as the front sight is wider than the narrower front sight of the Model 38. Additionally, the stainless steel Model 638 is preferable to me over the blued steel of the Model 38. By the way, I still carry a folding knife, and a loaded speed strip, as well as a small flashlight to complete my EDC. I will occasionally downsize to the Model 638, but only when I'm hunting in the field, where I have a long gun at hand.

Regards,

Dave

PS - here is a link to a previous post with photos of my EDC:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/138838918-post15.html

Regards,

Dave

Thank you for pointing out the differance in the front sights, I never noticed it before. I have a mint model 38 no dash and a 442 that I carry together from time to time same as you. Both have Crimson Trace LG-305 grips and are loaded with 125 grain Nyclads. One I carry in a Don Hume JIT Slide belt holster and the other in a PocketHolster.com slide in holster in the back pocket of my pants. I have never felt at a disadvantage with this set up. Together with a small light and a S&W folding knife and I am good to go. Another thing I noticed after reading this thread is the 442 is heavier than the 38. Thank you all for the information. Oh and I am not a fan of the locks either.
 
Dave, if you don't mind me asking, what did you think of the ERGO grips that you had in the picture?

Hi Farmboy:

I actually tried to do an apples-to-apples comparison with the Ergo grips and the standard Crimson Trace LG-405 laser grips I have on all of my Airweight J-frame revolvers. In my trial, I shot each pistol as quickly as possible using the iron sights only. I shot two cylinder full at each target from each revolver. Bottom line, there was very little, if any difference in the group sizes from either revolver. As a result, I returned the LG-405 grips back to the Model 38. The ERGO grips look a bit odd, but I didn't feel there was any appreciable advantages than the LG-405 grips. At a cost of about $20.00, I thought the ERGOs were worth a try.

Regards,

Dave
 
New Vs. Old

I won't own a "lock model" revolver. The main reason is that the internal parts are made from powdered steel and are not forged like they have been for decades. The design is not nearly as good as the old ones.

I'll keep all my old S&W's thank you. I only carried my model 60 for only 30 years or so. It says something when old N-frame guns from the 30's and a model 1917 are still viable firearms. Bet the new ones won't last nearly that long...
 
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