640 Pro Series or M&P 340 - help me choose!!!

[Jsferrazza]

You said you plan to practice a lot (which you should). You will find the recoil from the 640 much more tolerable than the 340. Most guys I know
who have the 340 shoot .38s in it because of the punishing recoil. You
won't practice if you get punished when you do. Plan to carry on your
belt IWB or OWB. Good luck.

The last part about planning to carry the 640 IWB or OWB vs. the ability to pocket carry the M&P 340 is a big part of the debate here, especially in suit pants.

And to your point of punishing practice with .357's in the M&P340, the thought of practicing weak hand only with that set up is a little intimidating at first but I'm sure I would get good at it after some time.

 

[Jsferrazza]

Yes, the only difference between the M&P and the PD is 2 oz, saved by the use of the titanium cylinder on the PD. The M&P also has a tritium front sight, and the PD doesn't.

Also, I don't like the internal lock guns, and all of these that we have been discussing are available without the lock. I don't trust the ILs, and I think that they detract from the looks of the firearm, and also give a place for debris to enter, and there is no way, just by looking at the gun to tell if it is on or off. Then you need to keep track of the tiny key. I had a 340 once with a lock, got it really cheap, ok gun, but the more that I thought about that darn hole in the side of the gun, and the little "scratch" mark around the hole, the more I didn't like it. Sold it to my son, who has little kids around the house, and might make sense for him. Bought the same gun without the lock, and lived happily ever after. Well, except I never have enough guns, so I am still buying them.

Just some more random thoughts for your consideration.

Best Regards, Les

I have definitely put some thought into the lock and agree with you, which is why I'm stuck between these two models. I don't even like a safety on my semi autos for that matter. I have a young child here at home, but don't have any reason to use the internal lock. I'd rather buy a $500 biometric safe then use the lock...

 

[les.b]

I have definitely put some thought into the lock and agree with you, which is why I'm stuck between these two models. I don't even like a safety on my semi autos for that matter. I have a young child here at home, but don't have any reason to use the internal lock. I'd rather buy a $500 biometric safe then use the lock...

Safes in general are a good idea. In addition to keeping the kids away from guns, they do a good job of securing other valuables besides guns. Jewelry, expensive watches, cash, gold, lots of the kinds of stuff that we value, can be secured in our gun safes.

Best Regards, Les

 

[Mister X]

Thanks for all of the feedback Guys!

Not to elongate this topic, but three things that weren't really touched on:

1. Long term durability of a scandium-alloy gun vs. all stainless gun shooting. 357's (could be irrelevant)?

2. Maintenance and care of the black finish vs. Stainless? I know it's a carry gun, but I'm somewhat OCD and try to keep my guns polished/waxed and nice looking.

3. Shootability of the 1.8" barrel on the M&P340 vs the 2.1" on the 640?

Thoughts?

The 640 will have much better long term durability. The 340 M&P is tougher than a 642/442 with it's added scandium, but it is still an aluminum alloy gun and not really comparable to an all stainless steel model.

The finish on the 340 M&P will wear and get scratches if you carry it frequently. I sold mine because I actually didn't like the big dot night sight so many are fond of and I found myself overly concerned about taking care of it, the finish and such because of the relatively high cost. I don't want to feel like I have to baby an EDC pocket snub, so I traded it in for two 642's. I would think the 640 would be more compatible with an OCD type personality since it's solid stainless and doesn't have a finish that can wear or scratch off.

The 640 is a more capable weapon in terms of shooting, but mainly due to the extra weight rather than barrel length IMO.

 

[DelawareDave]

Of the snub-nosed revolvers I've carried, I own an M36, M37, two M19s, and an M640-1 Pro series. One aspect you should not overlook is that the M640 is a "Pro Series" which to me, seems to have had a level of attention in the manufacture that makes it a smooth, consistent trigger. (I must admit, I have not handled the M&P 340).

When you've got five at a time, the follow-on shots my be just as important as the first. The night sights are simply superb on the 640, regardless what others have said. They make target acquisition as breeze.

The added weight means you're back on target faster. Weight is always a trade-off, and IMHO, the weight used to mitigate recoil in the hand is worth the extra weight in a holster. If you're using an IWB or shoulder holster, the weight is close to your core, therefore less noticeable over time. Things may be different with an ankle holster.

I know you said you wish to stick to .357. That's more the reason for the 640. My own technique is to load with 38 +p, and carry two moons full of .357. I figure if I'm in a situation where have to reload the gun, I'm not as concerned with over-penetration.

 

[Jsferrazza]

Safes in general are a good idea. In addition to keeping the kids away from guns, they do a good job of securing other valuables besides guns. Jewelry, expensive watches, cash, gold, lots of the kinds of stuff that we value, can be secured in our gun safes.

Best Regards, Les

100% agree. I was serious, I bought a nice biometric safe. Can't beat a thumbprint for quick access!

 

[Jsferrazza]

Of the snub-nosed revolvers I've carried, I own an M36, M37, two M19s, and an M640-1 Pro series. One aspect you should not overlook is that the M640 is a "Pro Series" which to me, seems to have had a level of attention in the manufacture that makes it a smooth, consistent trigger. (I must admit, I have not handled the M&P 340).

When you've got five at a time, the follow-on shots my be just as important as the first. The night sights are simply superb on the 640, regardless what others have said. They make target acquisition as breeze.

The added weight means you're back on target faster. Weight is always a trade-off, and IMHO, the weight used to mitigate recoil in the hand is worth the extra weight in a holster. If you're using an IWB or shoulder holster, the weight is close to your core, therefore less noticeable over time. Things may be different with an ankle holster.

I know you said you wish to stick to .357. That's more the reason for the 640. My own technique is to load with 38 +p, and carry two moons full of .357. I figure if I'm in a situation where have to reload the gun, I'm not as concerned with over-penetration.

All great points, and all are reasons why I'm considering the 640 Pro Series. I'm curious as to what your take is on pocket carrying the 640 Pro. Thoughts?

 

[Jsferrazza]

I was just reading a review of the 640 Pro Series online, and it stated that the gun has a full length ejector. I didn't see this mentioned on the S&W website, so can anybody confirm if that's true?

 

[les.b]

I was just reading a review of the 640 Pro Series online, and it stated that the gun has a full length ejector. I didn't see this mentioned on the S&W website, so can anybody confirm if that's true?

Well, I have my 340 and 640-1 Pro Series right here. The 640-1 ejector rod is about 1/4" longer than the 340, but it is still not as long as a .357 cartridge case, so I would not call it "full length". With the moon clips, though, ejection would be more reliable. The barrel is 2 1/8" in long on the 640 versus 1 7/8" on the 340.

Best Regards, Les

 

[les.b]

All great points, and all are reasons why I'm considering the 640 Pro Series. I'm curious as to what your take is on pocket carrying the 640 Pro. Thoughts?

I have pocket carried both. As long as I'm wearing my jeans, I don't even notice the difference. But in a suit pants pocket, you can tell the heavier gun, because the material is lighter and less supportive.

Best Regards, Les

 

[Jsferrazza]

Well, I have my 340 and 640-1 Pro Series right here. The 640-1 ejector rod is about 1/4" longer than the 340, but it is still not as long as a .357 cartridge case, so I would not call it "full length". With the moon clips, though, ejection would be more reliable. The barrel is 2 1/8" in long on the 640 versus 1 7/8" on the 340.

Best Regards, Les

That's the biggest pro that I see to the moon clips; one strong smack to the ejector and you know all of the spent casings are going to come out. Could save a few very precious seconds on a self defense situation.

After all of this discussion, I'm still so stuck in the middle of the two

 

[DelawareDave]

I have pocket carried both. As long as I'm wearing my jeans, I don't even notice the difference. But in a suit pants pocket, you can tell the heavier gun, because the material is lighter and less supportive.

Best Regards, Les

I agree. I will say though, that when dressed for business I like to either carry in a shoulder holster, or wear suspenders.

 

[Jsferrazza]

I agree. I will say though, that when dressed for business I like to either carry in a shoulder holster, or wear suspenders.

I wear suspenders (and a bowtie ) Monday-Friday, so that could help with carrying the 640 pro if thats what I go with.

 

[31FordA]

I have a 340 (no lock) that I carry daily, and have no complaints. The sights are good, and I find it to be more than accurate out to 25 yards. The trigger is decent, not as good as my 1990 vintage 640ND, but good enough. I just requalified with it, shooting a score of 99% again. Although I carry .38 135gr Gold Dot's in it, I have run .357 Golden Saber through it with no complaints. It is a great pocket carry, and in a belt holster you don't even know it's there. The finish has held up great after close to two years of steady use. All in all I've been very pleased with it.

 

[Jsferrazza]

So many of you that have responded and told me to get both - which I would love to own both some day, but have to choose one for now.

That being said, based on Smith's history, what's the probability that either of these would still be im production in the future? Does anybody know if these Pro Series come and go, or would they still be producing them in another year or two?

I understand I could find a nice used one in the future, but I prefer new. Something else to sway my decision of which to get first...

 

[les.b]

Hard to predict. I would be trying to find one right now, and take my chances on a second later. There must be some out there. I found all of mine in gunshops, but did some traveling to do so. All in different cities, and one in Pennsylvania, which had to be transferred to a WV FFL, which meant extra fees and waiting. Check Bud's Gun Shop. They sometimes have them, and could ship to a local FFL. They have sometimes had good prices, also. My two 340s were new in the box,and the 640 was used at a local feed store. But it was plain that it had only been shot a few times, and was just like new.

Best Regards, Les

 

[ContinentalOp]

If I knew I was going to get both, I'd get the 340 first because its lighter weight gives it more versatility in terms of carry options. Then get the 640 as soon as finances allow. That was originally my plan when I got my 642, to get a no-dash 640 down the line. Unfortunately, my past attempts to get a no-dash 640 failed.

I'd also make sure I got the 340 with the stainless steel cylinder. I'm not well versed in the scandium J-frame variations, but I think the 340 M&P has the stainless cylinder.

I wouldn't worry about which revolver may go out of production first. I'm ok with buying used. Plus, I don't think it'll matter much unless you plan to purchase the second gun several years from now. I think both guns will be available over the next 1-2 years, and would probably still be available NIB for some time after production might cease. Just my opinion, though.

 

[two-bit cowboy]

In one of your posts you mentioned handling the .38 version of the 340 -- I'm not aware of that one. Was there an older version that was .38 only?

Ok, Jsferrazza, I change my recommendation this evening, with a caveat, and it's because you want to shoot .357s 3 or 4 times a month. The caveat will come near the end of this, but here's a hint: stocks.

I pulled out all my .38 and .357 this evening and went pie plate hunting with the 640 Pro. This is the first time I've run everything in the safe through the 640. I stapled the plates to a board, nailed the board to a tree about chest high, set my bench +/- 25' away, and went through--two handed--in this order.

Remington .38, 130gr, metal clad -- what a nice round to shoot, my best group in the middle of the plate (point of aim)

Speer .38 +P, 135gr SBHP -- first one was low and away (me, I'm sure), the rest were center and a bit low

Speer Lawman .38 +P, 158gr TMJ -- second best group, center low

Remington Golden Saber .357, 125gr, Brass JHP -- nicest of the magnum rounds to shoot and a nice group a bit low

Barnes TAC-XPD .357, 125gr, TAC-XP HP, lead-free -- first one got away low, then 4 on the plate but very low, slightly left (after shooting the rest of the types I went back to this one, raised the nose slightly and put three groups of 5 pretty rapid fire near the center of the plate -- absolutely no problem with recovery time)

Federal .357, 158gr Hydra-Shok JHP -- low, center (I shot two more groups of 5 with similar results)

Winchester .357, 158gr, JHP -- same as the Federal

This is a great little gun, and it's the one I recommend you get (you can always get an M&P 340 later).

Here's the bottom line (and the caveat): get a GREAT set of stocks for your range time. None of this stuff I shot up tonight hurt in the least, and I primarily attribute that to my Karl Nill Centennial stocks. I've not seen another maker that builds up the top back of their stocks like this, and they are a difference maker. I initially bought the Nill stocks for my 340, but it gave them up when the 640 arrived earlier this month.

You won't want to cc with the Nill stocks, if you decide on them. I do, but not in a pocket, and the way I carry they don't print. Whatever stocks you use for cc you'll need to spend a bit of range time with them just so you know what to expect. As an aside, I haven't put one round through my 340 or 640 with the OEM stocks.

 

[Jsferrazza]

In one of your posts you mentioned handling the .38 version of the 340 -- I'm not aware of that one. Was there an older version that was .38 only?

Ok, Jsferrazza, I change my recommendation this evening, with a caveat, and it's because you want to shoot .357s 3 or 4 times a month. The caveat will come near the end of this, but here's a hint: stocks.

I pulled out all my .38 and .357 this evening and went pie plate hunting with the 640 Pro. This is the first time I've run everything in the safe through the 640. I stapled the plates to a board, nailed the board to a tree about chest high, set my bench +/- 25' away, and went through--two handed--in this order.

Remington .38, 130gr, metal clad -- what a nice round to shoot, my best group in the middle of the plate (point of aim)

Speer .38 +P, 135gr SBHP -- first one was low and away (me, I'm sure), the rest were center and a bit low

Speer Lawman .38 +P, 158gr TMJ -- second best group, center low

Remington Golden Saber .357, 125gr, Brass JHP -- nicest of the magnum rounds to shoot and a nice group a bit low

Barnes TAC-XPD .357, 125gr, TAC-XP HP, lead-free -- first one got away low, then 4 on the plate but very low, slightly left (after shooting the rest of the types I went back to this one, raised the nose slightly and put three groups of 5 pretty rapid fire near the center of the plate -- absolutely no problem with recovery time)

Federal .357, 158gr Hydra-Shok JHP -- low, center (I shot two more groups of 5 with similar results)

Winchester .357, 158gr, JHP -- same as the Federal

This is a great little gun, and it's the one I recommend you get (you can always get an M&P 340 later).

Here's the bottom line (and the caveat): get a GREAT set of stocks for your range time. None of this stuff I shot up tonight hurt in the least, and I primarily attribute that to my Karl Nill Centennial stocks. I've not seen another maker that builds up the top back of their stocks like this, and they are a difference maker. I initially bought the Nill stocks for my 340, but it gave them up when the 640 arrived earlier this month.

You won't want to cc with the Nill stocks, if you decide on them. I do, but not in a pocket, and the way I carry they don't print. Whatever stocks you use for cc you'll need to spend a bit of range time with them just so you know what to expect. As an aside, I haven't put one round through my 340 or 640 with the OEM stocks.

Great information. I'm still stuck in the middle of the two, but information like this is helping me out greatly; thank you! Which stocks do you pocket carry the 640 with?

Oh, and I mentioned shooting a 642 (stainless .38spl) in a prior post. I enjoyed it which is what set me on my quest for a j frame.

 

[two-bit cowboy]

Which stocks do you pocket carry the 640 with?

I don't pocket carry. Since you asked, I plunked the 640, with Federal .357 158gr in my front left Levi's pocket just to see -- almost hides the Nill stocks. The weight was not a big deal, but that pocket is reserved for my S&W clip point knife and puppy snacks.

Lots of info has been thrown at you since the beginning of this thread; I use a Lobo Gun Leather Enhanced Pancake on a lined Milt Sparks 1¾" belt in either the appendix (easier to hide) or kidney (easier to draw) position. I leave the Nill stocks on when I carry -- they also enhance my ability to draw.

On availability: Bud's has the M&P 340 no lock (sku: 103072) for $721, ships free. The Exchange in Brookings, SD, offers the 640-1 Pro no lock (sku: 178044) for $729, including shipping.

Hope you enjoy the gun show.

Bob