642 frame finish question

[VAP22]

Hi,
I have a question about the finish on my 642, that I have had for about six years. The outer coating on the frame is starting to come off. Has anyone else had this issue? I know the frame is painted, but I've never seen this before. I am the original owner and take good care of it. Does anyone know if S&W offer a refinish on these revolvers? Is there anything I could do to prevent it from getting worse? Thank you for any input.

 

[snubbyfan]

That's a question that's come up a few times before.
Try some of these links I found using the search function.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/180737-642-finish-question.html
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/78386-sw-642-finish-peeling.html
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/255030-s-w-638-3-finish-peeling.html
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/171492-642-finish.html
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/186399-mod-642-442-difference.html
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/93070-642-finish-problem.html

 

[kaaskop49]

The 642's finish is way more durable than that on the 342. I sprayed Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber (which I do with all my revolvers) inside the 342 and the coating peeled off like sunburnt skin. Function is not affected. Oddly, this coating (as stated in SCSW) is not on the sister 337Ti.

 

[photoman]

Hi,
I have a question about the finish on my 642, that I have had for about six years. The outer coating on the frame is starting to come off. Has anyone else had this issue? I know the frame is painted, but I've never seen this before. I am the original owner and take good care of it. Does anyone know if S&W offer a refinish on these revolvers? Is there anything I could do to prevent it from getting worse? Thank you for any input.

This is a well documented issue with the 642. The only thing you can do to keep the finish looking brand new is to not use the gun.

I have two 642's that I carry a lot and both look like nine miles of bad road. I've never considered having them refinished as it would probably cost more than a new gun to have it done (unless you have someone local that can do it).

 

[hotrod150]

Maybe )lightly) beadblast & refinish with one of the spray-on coatings? Duracoat, gunkote, etc.

 

[InTheWoods]

Harsh cleaning chemicals can kill a 642 quickly. Don't use them. Waxing the frame can do a lot to protect the finish from wear and accidental exposure to harmfull agents.

 

[andyo5]

When you want to clean the bore and cylinder, wet a patch with Hoppe's #9 and run it back and forth in the bore. There is no need to spray anything on the gun. After cleaning I rub the exterior with Birchwood Casey Sheath (now called Barricade) and it is good to go.
I carry mine in my pocket without a holster. Finish still looks new.

 

[photoman]

Do not use #9 or any other ammonia based cleaner on a 642.

 

[VAP22]

Thank you for all the input. It appears unfortunately that I will have to just deal with the finish looking lowsy. I guess as long as I functions perfect, I shouldn't worry about its appearance. Although, that's easier said than done.

 

[sweed]

Mine is peeling like crazy on the back strap.
Think of it as building character on the gun.

 

[stc1]

Maybe )lightly) beadblast & refinish with one of the spray-on coatings? Duracoat, gunkote, etc.

Does anyone know if the 642 could have duracoat applied after stripping the factory clearcoat off (without blasting) My gun is only a few months old and I can peel the clearcoat off with my fingernail. I did a demo spot with a deft fast drying lacquer and it seemed to work but its too glossy. Thanks, Rick.

 

[snowman.45]

Does anyone know if the 642 could have duracoat applied after stripping the factory clearcoat off (without blasting) My gun is only a few months old and I can peel the clearcoat off with my fingernail. I did a demo spot with a deft fast drying lacquer and it seemed to work but its too glossy. Thanks, Rick.

I've used Duracote and it's good stuff. However, for a more durable finish, use KG Guncote or Ceracote. Ceracote is supposed to be a bit more durable than Guncote, but you can't touch the Ceracote until its been baked. The KG Guncote will air-cure to the point you can handle it in about 30 minutes. Then, once you bake it, it gets real hard and durable. I think either would be a good finish for an aluminum frame. I would, however, blast any steel parts prior to coating. A rough surface adheres better.

 

[stc1]

I've used Duracote and it's good stuff. However, for a more durable finish, use KG Guncote or Ceracote. Ceracote is supposed to be a bit more durable than Guncote, but you can't touch the Ceracote until its been baked. The KG Guncote will air-cure to the point you can handle it in about 30 minutes. Then, once you bake it, it gets real hard and durable. I think either would be a good finish for an aluminum frame. I would, however, blast any steel parts prior to coating. A rough surface adheres better.

Thanks for the info. The main question I have is if the "gray" under the factory clearcoat is bare aluminum, anodized aluminum or some sort of paint or coating. if it is a paint will the Duracoat bond to it or "melt" it. I would rather not bead blast the finish because it looks so nice with the clearcoat on top. I guess I'll try it and report back, Rick

 

[sps282]

I've used "Gunzilla" to clean my 642 for the last four years with no problems to the finish....but maybe I'm just lucky!

 

[xopher88x]

Do not use #9 or any other ammonia based cleaner on a 642.

Whoops. I use it on mine. And my finish is less than perfect. But also, it's a hard working gun so I don't mind.