642 question

It is a pre lock. Take that value into consideration. The no lock does make it more vaulable. That makes it a great carry piece.
 
Does anyone here have a model 642 or 642 - 1 snubby? I have someone who wants to make a trade with me and that is what they're offering it is one that he carried my concern is instead of the aluminum alloy frame being exposed doesn't this pistol have a coating on it and the coating is prone to chipping and rubbing off creating an uneven finish throughout the frame?

IT HAS HAPPENED TO SOME, BUT NOT ALL M642s. REMOVE THE GRIPS AND INSPECT IT VERY WELL.....

IMHO---CARRYING IT IN A VERY HUMID CLIMATE, OR CARRYING IT LOOSE IN A POCKET, INSTEAD OF IN A HOLSTER, MIGHT AFFECT THE INTEGRITY OF THE FINISH.....

MY NO LOCK M642-1, CARRIED IN A MIKA POCKET HOLSTER, STILL LOOKS GOOD AFTER 4 YEARS......

MY WEAPON WEARS A SET OF CT LG-405s, WHICH COVER THE BACKSTRAP, THUS PROTECTING IT FROM SWEATY PALMS.......
 

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My 642-1 had some issues on the anodizing. Probably could have sent it back to S&W for refinishing... but opted the Robar route.

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NP3 Plus, which was beneficial when I got my 9mm cylinder to convert it. Sent that out to Robar, and matched perfectly. No issues. [emoji106]
 
I have never understood the coating that the factory puts on it. A clean polished aluminum alloy would look better and would not peel wear or chip and the finish would last longer. Sort of like stainless steel. I sure am going to be tempted to find a way to safely remove that worn finish and just have a clean aluminum alloy finish.
 
Rogmat-
Recommending grips is like recommending underwear.
First shoot it with the grips that come on it.
Then you can decide if you want to swap out the grips.
I have a number of J Grips on Hand, but my 642 still has the original grips.
They seem to be a little sparse with +P ammo, but OK with regular 38s.
The general rule is, larger grips are more comfortable with hotter anmo.
But as the grips get larger, it's harder to carry it concealed, especially pocket carry.
 

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Bare aluminum is extremely susceptible and prome to corrosion! Especially if in contact with salt!!!!

If you go to bare aluminum lok, better put a clear coat over it, or it won't last long!
 
"Unlike iron and steel, aluminium does not rust or corrode in moist conditions. Its surface is protected by a natural layer of aluminium oxide. This prevents the metal below from coming into contact with air and oxygen.

Aluminium is high in the reactivity series but it does not seem to react with water or acids. IT WILL REACT/CORRODE WITH ACIDS AND WATER ONLY WHEN IT IS FRESHLY MADE.This is because, when the surface of freshly made aluminium is left in the air, a thin layer of aluminium oxide quickly forms on its surface:

4Al(s) + 3O2(g) → 2Al2O3(s)

This layer is only about 0.0002 cm thick,but this is enough to make the metal resistant to corrosion,This tough layer sticks tightly and does not flake off the surface.The oxide layer is unreactive.

The acidity or alkalinity of the environment significantly affects the corrosion behavior of aluminum alloys. At lower and higher pH, aluminum is more likely to corrode but by no means always does so. For example, aluminum is quite resistant to concentrated nitric acid. When aluminum is exposed to alkaline conditions corrosion may occur, and when the oxide film is perforated locally, accelerated attack occurs because aluminum is attacked more rapidly than its oxide under alkaline conditions. The result is pitting. In acidic conditions, the oxide is more rapidly attacked than aluminum, and more general attack should result."
 
Finish on mine has not chipped or peeled off. It has just worn off basically on the edges. It is an early -1 model that is not +P rated.

I have seen pictures of some that look like they have chipped or fallen off in flakes.

no chipping...no peeling.

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That's an older 642 with a clear anodized finish (which wears great over the years). The new ones are basically painted. S&W stopped using the clear anodized finishes when folks (or so I heard) complained that the frame didn't match the cylinder/barrel.
 
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Been carrying my 442 for many years. No finish issues on the blue. Sure there will be some holster wear. Just like there will be honing marks on a pocket knife used daily. Adding some
Altamont grips make the 642/442 one nice carry pistol.
 

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Bare aluminum is extremely susceptible and prome to corrosion! Especially if in contact with salt!!!!

If you go to bare aluminum lok, better put a clear coat over it, or it won't last long!

I polished my 642 in 2014, have carried it quite often when going out in a leather pocket holster and it still looks pretty much the way it did when I was done. I waxed it one time when I was done but have never done it again.

It was pretty beat up finish wise.Lots of chips and marks along the back of the grip frame.

So I polished my 642...

My opinion, and please regard it as such: it's a carry gun and it will never be a collectible -

I would say this statement is false. There are so many guns that people have said that about through the years for various reasons. Milsurp,high production count etc. And yet some have gained a HUGE bump in value. It all depends on what happens in the future. You can never really tell what will be a collectible and what won't. Now as far as his gun goes, probably not since it's already worn some.

As far as value goes for your gun these guys are right in the ballpark. No idea what you have in the AR but these are still not much more than $300-$350.
 
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