66-2 crane ?

11e40

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gentlemen, just got a 66-2. pretty nice except has about .025" lateral play between the frame & the cylinder yoke. also has slight peening of the cyliner stop notch's. any way to correct this at home or send to s&w ? thanks.
 
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That much crane-to-frame play is not good.

1. The crane could be bent from slamming the cylinder shut while playing "hollywood tough guy".

2. The frame could be distorted from improper barrel removal.installation.

3. Does the front sight appear to lean to the right?

If you are lucky, it is a simple misalignment of the extractor rod tip and the forward locking lug under the barrel. Close cylinder and observe the forward lug snapping smartly into the end of the extractor rod. If it does not, the barrel can be misindexed. Does the front sight stand vertical?

All of these things are, to one degree or another, repairable. Either a good revolver smith or the S&W factory can do the fixing. Let us know what your examination shows.
 
As for the slight peening of the cylinder locking bolt notches, careful polishing can remove most of the peening. Refitting of a replacement locking bolt can restore tightness.

As for the loose crane, you might not want to hear this: a qualified S&W revolver smith can CAREFULLY bend both the frame and/or the crane back into position. That is what the babbitt bar in the armorer's tool kit is for.
 
gentlemen, after a good scrubbing & careful remeasurement it's .009". the extractor rod tip & lug align real well, snaps together good. is this acceptable clearence ? thanks for the help .
 
gentlemen, after a good scrubbing & careful remeasurement it's .009". the extractor rod tip & lug align real well, snaps together good. .

We have special plugs called alignment rods that check fit. If it closes and opens easily then it's most likely ok.

The .009 you measure, without knowing exactly how/what your measuring doesn't seem to whacked out to be concerned with.
If it has an in & out motion of the yoke fit inside the frame, that is adjusted with the yoke screw, or yoke drum. That is easy to fix. See the faq sticky above to see how.

Stop measuring and go shoot it...;)
 
Is that .009" Barrel/Cylinder gap or .009 of End Shake??
He might need a package of Power Customs End Shake Washers..
Enjoy!!
Of To The Cave City Gunshow..
Gary/Hk
 
I also have a 66-2 with the same problem.
If you look at the gun from the muzzle and put slight left to right pressure on the cylinder you can slip a .019 feeler gauge between the yolk body and the frame from the front. Mine looks as though the yolk would need to be replaced.
I have had this gun for years with this problem and your post made me think to finally do something about it if I can.
Looks like a trip back to the mother ship.
 
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