66-2
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LDThornton
Member
I own a 66-1 currently. In the past I've owned a 66 no dash and a 66-2. Many S&W owners say the 66 is the best S&W ever built. Hang onto it as the price keeps going up and they are starting to get a bit harder to find. What you paid for yours is a great price and you did very well. Practice shooting it with 38 spcl ammo and it will last forever. Enjoy.
Lonnie
Lonnie
Info
I picked up this little bit of info.
Hello Iron Colonel
Please Don't take my response about the Model 66 prior to this the wrong way, they are a fine revolver if they have been treated right . The Model 19 which was the Grandfather carbon steel Nickel or Blued version made before the 66 that is shown in one of my other responses here is a good gun, But one must remember when buying one of these that if they were subject to many hot full House .357 Loads some wear or damage issues could be the reason they are up for sale.
This Lighter Weight K-Frame style revolver was designed after the Prompting of LEO's Bill Jordan and Skeeter Skelton. It was their wish's to have S&W Harness the Powerful .357 Load in a Lighter framed revolver so they were easier to carry daily than the Previously Heavier-N-Frame revolvers meaning Pre-27's and later in 1954 when the Pre-Model 28 Low Gloss Bluing Highway Patrolman's came out.
The Model 19 was made from 1955-1999 and most were carried more than they were actually shot by LEO's. What S&W did to accomplish this in the Lighter -K- frame was they Beefed up the area of the revolver's main frame in the cylinder crane area of the Main Forward frame Portion all the way up to where the barrel screwed into the main revolver frame.
As I mentioned earlier the Weak spot of the Model 19's was the flat spot underneath the barrel which is also called the forcing cone, where the barrel meets the face of the cylinder. This flat spot had to be made so the barrel would clear The Cylinder forward Bearing surface , and it was later discovered that repeated firing of the Lighter .357 Bullet's such as the 125 & 110 Grain bullet weight's led to this forcing cone cracking issue.
If 158 Grain Bullets that the gun was designed to fire were used, these cracking forcing cone issues did not arise, but there is no way to tell what a used gun has been fired with, so it is a Bit risky buying them. When S&W came out with the Model 586 Back around 1980 it was their last attempt to equip the LEO's with a Revolver side arm heavy enough to handle Full House Magnum Loads with no wear or forcing cone cracking issues, But sadly many LEO's had switched to The Semi-Auto Pistols by this time, so the 586 was never fully adopted as their Preferred side arm.
It was S&W's idea by Bringing out this larger-L-Frame revolver, which happen's to be Larger in the crane area along with the frame behind the cylinder window to eliminate any problems and the full Barrel under-lug idea was copied from The Famous Colt Python to add to the durability of the revolver. With Making the-L-Frame Larger, The Hammer is also slightly Larger than the smaller K-Frame revolver due to the added strength and Material used in this frame they had to Increase the Hammer dimmensions. When Looking at any revolver to purchase that is used, I have a few Basic Test's I go through before deciding to purchase one.
Once I open the cylinder and make certain it is empty and safe I first check for End Play in the cylinder by grasping both side of the cylinder While holding the gun, and attempt to Push the Cylinder forward and then rearward. If there is Noticeable end shake, and I can see the Gap between the face of the forcing cone and the face of the cylinder changing showing me Light difference's while doing this test, and Holding the Gun in a Position which allows me to view this from a side View I Pass on buying them.
I also check for what I call Cylinder wobble. I again Grasp Both sides of the cylinder and try to wobble it left to right in the Un-cocked Position. If there is excessive wobble this could mean Wear has been established by Repeated hot load firing. Most times when you see this it will show to be a Worn cylinder stop which is Located in the bottom of the cylinder window on the Main frame towards the rear of the cylinder, and this is also what Locks up the revolver in firing mode.
I then Cock the revolver to firing Position and do the same Test of side wobble, and then for end shake, or sometimes called Cylinder end Play. If I see any Big Play on any of these Modes I Pass on it. When Looking at the revolver check to see the cylinder stop Notch's that lock up the cylinder and are located towards the rear of the cylinder are not Gouged or sharp to the feel.
If they are sharp or worn Looking this is another Indication the revolver has been subject to Hot loads. Look closely at the Forcing cone gap as it should have .004-.009 of Clearance between the forcing cone and the face of the cylinder. Also look at the face of the cylinder to see if it has any scrubbing marks on it, and if it does this would indicate the revolver has Far too Little forcing cone Gap as it has been touching the cylinder while being fired, and this is a problem as well. Once the cylinder is Open spin it by Grasping the Knurled threads on the end of the extractor rod. If it is fine, it should spin free and true with No Wobble to it. if there is wobble to it, this would indicate Hot loads again or a Possible sprung Crane from Hot loads or a Cowboy Slapping the cylinder shut, or Possibly dropping the revolver while it's cylinder was in the Open Position.
While I still have the cylinder open I also check the cylinder hand. The hand is what advances the cylinder to the next firing mode. This can be done by Pushing the revolver's Cylinder release In it's Most forward position while cocking the hammer Back placing the Gun In Firing mode. As you do this, You will see the hand emerge out of the recoil shield which is located behind the cylinder in the main frame area. When the hand emerges Pay close attention to it and Look for Chips, Burrs or Shinny wear.
If any of this is Present it may need to be re timed and that can be real expensive, as most times it means a trip back to the factory for a Hand & Extractor replacement.Take your finger and run it across the extractor Notch's. Make sure they are not sharp to the feel or that they do not have any chips or Missing Metal Pieces on them. Now close up the cylinder and Hold the revolver with it's barrel straight up in the air. Slowly Cock the weapon and make certain while doing this, that the cylinder advances to it's full fire mode.
I have seen some in the past that would Not Index into their firing mode when doing this you must cock the weapon very slowly. If the revolver Fails to Lock up in it's firing mode Position when doing this test , This is an indication it has been subject to Hot loads and has Internal wear of the cylinder hand.
Then Point the barrel straight down at the ground and do the same test. if it locks up with the barrel in both directions chances are it check's out, but you have to do this test of cocking the revolver's hammer slowly as if the hammer is cocked Too quickly while doing this test, the cylinder has enough weight and inertia to advance the revolver to the firing mode and you will Miss the Possibility of the cylinder Hand being worn.
Next Look close at the top of The revolver's sights. Make sure they have Not Been Whacked. If the corners are smooth and Square chances are it has not been dropped. I have seen Many revolvers with their rear sight blades rounded off and this is a clear Indication that the revolver has been dropped somewhere along the Line. I am sorry for making this response Long, but Hopefully it will keep you from being Burned when looking at used revolver's for possible Purchase, and it is a Lot Easier to pass on a Revolver, than it is to foot a Large Repair Bill. Regards, Hammerdown
__________________
Yeah though I Walk Through The Valley of Death, I shall fear no evil as I carry with me my S&W
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
02-18-2009, 11:11 AM #
I picked up this little bit of info.
Hello Iron Colonel
Please Don't take my response about the Model 66 prior to this the wrong way, they are a fine revolver if they have been treated right . The Model 19 which was the Grandfather carbon steel Nickel or Blued version made before the 66 that is shown in one of my other responses here is a good gun, But one must remember when buying one of these that if they were subject to many hot full House .357 Loads some wear or damage issues could be the reason they are up for sale.
This Lighter Weight K-Frame style revolver was designed after the Prompting of LEO's Bill Jordan and Skeeter Skelton. It was their wish's to have S&W Harness the Powerful .357 Load in a Lighter framed revolver so they were easier to carry daily than the Previously Heavier-N-Frame revolvers meaning Pre-27's and later in 1954 when the Pre-Model 28 Low Gloss Bluing Highway Patrolman's came out.
The Model 19 was made from 1955-1999 and most were carried more than they were actually shot by LEO's. What S&W did to accomplish this in the Lighter -K- frame was they Beefed up the area of the revolver's main frame in the cylinder crane area of the Main Forward frame Portion all the way up to where the barrel screwed into the main revolver frame.
As I mentioned earlier the Weak spot of the Model 19's was the flat spot underneath the barrel which is also called the forcing cone, where the barrel meets the face of the cylinder. This flat spot had to be made so the barrel would clear The Cylinder forward Bearing surface , and it was later discovered that repeated firing of the Lighter .357 Bullet's such as the 125 & 110 Grain bullet weight's led to this forcing cone cracking issue.
If 158 Grain Bullets that the gun was designed to fire were used, these cracking forcing cone issues did not arise, but there is no way to tell what a used gun has been fired with, so it is a Bit risky buying them. When S&W came out with the Model 586 Back around 1980 it was their last attempt to equip the LEO's with a Revolver side arm heavy enough to handle Full House Magnum Loads with no wear or forcing cone cracking issues, But sadly many LEO's had switched to The Semi-Auto Pistols by this time, so the 586 was never fully adopted as their Preferred side arm.
It was S&W's idea by Bringing out this larger-L-Frame revolver, which happen's to be Larger in the crane area along with the frame behind the cylinder window to eliminate any problems and the full Barrel under-lug idea was copied from The Famous Colt Python to add to the durability of the revolver. With Making the-L-Frame Larger, The Hammer is also slightly Larger than the smaller K-Frame revolver due to the added strength and Material used in this frame they had to Increase the Hammer dimmensions. When Looking at any revolver to purchase that is used, I have a few Basic Test's I go through before deciding to purchase one.
Once I open the cylinder and make certain it is empty and safe I first check for End Play in the cylinder by grasping both side of the cylinder While holding the gun, and attempt to Push the Cylinder forward and then rearward. If there is Noticeable end shake, and I can see the Gap between the face of the forcing cone and the face of the cylinder changing showing me Light difference's while doing this test, and Holding the Gun in a Position which allows me to view this from a side View I Pass on buying them.
I also check for what I call Cylinder wobble. I again Grasp Both sides of the cylinder and try to wobble it left to right in the Un-cocked Position. If there is excessive wobble this could mean Wear has been established by Repeated hot load firing. Most times when you see this it will show to be a Worn cylinder stop which is Located in the bottom of the cylinder window on the Main frame towards the rear of the cylinder, and this is also what Locks up the revolver in firing mode.
I then Cock the revolver to firing Position and do the same Test of side wobble, and then for end shake, or sometimes called Cylinder end Play. If I see any Big Play on any of these Modes I Pass on it. When Looking at the revolver check to see the cylinder stop Notch's that lock up the cylinder and are located towards the rear of the cylinder are not Gouged or sharp to the feel.
If they are sharp or worn Looking this is another Indication the revolver has been subject to Hot loads. Look closely at the Forcing cone gap as it should have .004-.009 of Clearance between the forcing cone and the face of the cylinder. Also look at the face of the cylinder to see if it has any scrubbing marks on it, and if it does this would indicate the revolver has Far too Little forcing cone Gap as it has been touching the cylinder while being fired, and this is a problem as well. Once the cylinder is Open spin it by Grasping the Knurled threads on the end of the extractor rod. If it is fine, it should spin free and true with No Wobble to it. if there is wobble to it, this would indicate Hot loads again or a Possible sprung Crane from Hot loads or a Cowboy Slapping the cylinder shut, or Possibly dropping the revolver while it's cylinder was in the Open Position.
While I still have the cylinder open I also check the cylinder hand. The hand is what advances the cylinder to the next firing mode. This can be done by Pushing the revolver's Cylinder release In it's Most forward position while cocking the hammer Back placing the Gun In Firing mode. As you do this, You will see the hand emerge out of the recoil shield which is located behind the cylinder in the main frame area. When the hand emerges Pay close attention to it and Look for Chips, Burrs or Shinny wear.
If any of this is Present it may need to be re timed and that can be real expensive, as most times it means a trip back to the factory for a Hand & Extractor replacement.Take your finger and run it across the extractor Notch's. Make sure they are not sharp to the feel or that they do not have any chips or Missing Metal Pieces on them. Now close up the cylinder and Hold the revolver with it's barrel straight up in the air. Slowly Cock the weapon and make certain while doing this, that the cylinder advances to it's full fire mode.
I have seen some in the past that would Not Index into their firing mode when doing this you must cock the weapon very slowly. If the revolver Fails to Lock up in it's firing mode Position when doing this test , This is an indication it has been subject to Hot loads and has Internal wear of the cylinder hand.
Then Point the barrel straight down at the ground and do the same test. if it locks up with the barrel in both directions chances are it check's out, but you have to do this test of cocking the revolver's hammer slowly as if the hammer is cocked Too quickly while doing this test, the cylinder has enough weight and inertia to advance the revolver to the firing mode and you will Miss the Possibility of the cylinder Hand being worn.
Next Look close at the top of The revolver's sights. Make sure they have Not Been Whacked. If the corners are smooth and Square chances are it has not been dropped. I have seen Many revolvers with their rear sight blades rounded off and this is a clear Indication that the revolver has been dropped somewhere along the Line. I am sorry for making this response Long, but Hopefully it will keep you from being Burned when looking at used revolver's for possible Purchase, and it is a Lot Easier to pass on a Revolver, than it is to foot a Large Repair Bill. Regards, Hammerdown
__________________
Yeah though I Walk Through The Valley of Death, I shall fear no evil as I carry with me my S&W
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
02-18-2009, 11:11 AM #
TippyRacer
Member
Jeez, that's exactly what I paid for mine (identical) 9 years ago!
thats nice and I want one.
I have a 2,5 and was gonna buy a 4 inch a couple years back from a friend for 180.00... I said I would take it soooo quick but then walked back to my friend and said that she needed to ask our mutual friend pastor K if he wanted it first... he was just starting out in the firearms realm and a 4 or 6 inch 357 was on his recommended list by me... he did take it and while I am glad he has a great gun I kinda kick myself every now n agin
I have a 2,5 and was gonna buy a 4 inch a couple years back from a friend for 180.00... I said I would take it soooo quick but then walked back to my friend and said that she needed to ask our mutual friend pastor K if he wanted it first... he was just starting out in the firearms realm and a 4 or 6 inch 357 was on his recommended list by me... he did take it and while I am glad he has a great gun I kinda kick myself every now n agin
I paid $350 for mine in 1981
Still got it too! If I am right mine is a 66-2 as well. I was probably one of the first guys in St Louis to stick Pachmayer Grippers on any handgun. They were brand new on the market and this place had just got them in stock. Back in that day there were not very many gunshops around here.
I know for a fact I was the first guy to buy a pair from that shop anyway. I'd pay $360 if it past my used gun tests in a heart beat. Good job!
Still got it too! If I am right mine is a 66-2 as well. I was probably one of the first guys in St Louis to stick Pachmayer Grippers on any handgun. They were brand new on the market and this place had just got them in stock. Back in that day there were not very many gunshops around here. I know for a fact I was the first guy to buy a pair from that shop anyway. I'd pay $360 if it past my used gun tests in a heart beat. Good job!
hedge313
Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2010
- Messages
- 62
- Reaction score
- 19
Great Gun - Great price!
I purchased a 66-2 2.5 last year, paid $325 out the door - AWESOME GUN! I later paid $465 otd for a 66-5 4.0 in Nov. and still feel like I did well. These K frames are very sought after, revel in your find! Congrats!
I purchased a 66-2 2.5 last year, paid $325 out the door - AWESOME GUN! I later paid $465 otd for a 66-5 4.0 in Nov. and still feel like I did well. These K frames are very sought after, revel in your find! Congrats!
MSgt G
US Veteran
Great gun and a wonderful price! I know you'll enjoy it.
ab4ka
Member
great deal on a nice gun!
RHINOWSO
Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2009
- Messages
- 245
- Reaction score
- 29
I have had pawn shop / consignment sales luck lately too... just before Christmas I got a 66-3 and just last week a 640-1 for $350 each (plus tax, so they ran me $370 OTD). Both lightly used, especially the 640-1.
For a nice used S&W, I'll pay $350 all day long with little hesitation. Worst case is you'll decide you don't want it and make $50-100 without any effort...
Great score, BTW...
- Rhino
For a nice used S&W, I'll pay $350 all day long with little hesitation. Worst case is you'll decide you don't want it and make $50-100 without any effort...
Great score, BTW...
- Rhino
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