686 4" 7 Shot-Any Downside?

My first centerfire was a 4" 686, and I shot that gun better than ALMOST anything since. I have the 3" model, but a 5-inch would seriously trip my trigger..............Finger.
 
It's more desirable. The chamber walls can't be as thick as a 6 shooter, so won't be as strong, but they are strong enough to safely fire the rounds they were designed to fire. Don't exceed design spec and you have nothing to worry about, apart from the speed loader thing.

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The chamber wall thickness isn't the only strength consideration.
On revolvers with an odd number of chambers, like the 686 plus, the notches in the cylinder are centered between the chambers. This is a strength advantage. Whether or not this matters more then the decrease in thickness between the chambers would require a lot of analysis. In either case, the cylinder has passed proof tests by S&W. The only example I know of S&W having strength problems has been with the flattened barrel at the forcing cone of K frame magnums. I have not heard of any problems with cylinder strength when the ammo was within specs.

Best,
Rick
 
I also have a 686-4 + 4" and, no, there is no downside to the 7 shooter.

Not in my opinion anyway.

I got mine in 'minty' condition for $550 OTD a few years back and considered that a steal given that the new ones were fetching $700+ and mine is a better gun.
 
If you're an Old Fart who has CRS (Cant Remember S..) you'll find that you dump a loaded round with every cylinder full. BTW, I know this from first hand experince.
 
I bought a new 686-6 about one month ago.
It cost $730, which is more than an older one in like new condition, but I don't care, its a better gun.

Best,
Rick
 
Because it's a seven shot and not a six shot cylinder won't the hand have less work to do when rotating the cylinder thus making the trigger pull slightly shorter? I remember hearing someone talking about this when comparing a 6 shot K frame to a six shot L frame. The trigger on my 66 is slightly better than the one on my 686, not sure if that's the reason though.


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Because it's a seven shot and not a six shot cylinder won't the hand have less work to do when rotating the cylinder thus making the trigger pull slightly shorter? I remember hearing someone talking about this when comparing a 6 shot K frame to a six shot L frame. The trigger on my 66 is slightly better than the one on my 686, not sure if that's the reason though.

Having cut-teeth on the 6rd K-frame and Ruger Sixes...I couldn't warm-up to the 7rd L-frame. I tried both the scan-ti .38, and 686. It's all in the brain-to-trigger-finger interface, my timing was off, LOL. The 5 and 6 shot guns seem to go click..click..bang. Whereas the 7rd L, and 10rd .22 go click-click.....bang, or sumpn' like that.

If it's your only revolver, buy the damn thing cause it will never bother you.
 
It's more desirable. The chamber walls can't be as thick as a 6 shooter, so won't be as strong, but they are strong enough to safely fire the rounds they were designed to fire. Don't exceed design spec and you have nothing to worry about, apart from the speed loader thing.

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The chamber walls on the 7-shot are as thick or thicker than the 6-shot because they are rotated to align for 7 and the notch cut-outs whatever they are called are not close to the chambers. This results in MORE metal not less. A thicker chamber wall results with the geometry.
 
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