686, 6 rd or 7 rd?

Joe_Cool

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Since they offer both 6 and 7 round versions, it would seem that there must be some advantage to either one, otherwise, why not just offer the 7 rd? So what advantages for either one?
 
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As has been said many times before, "I never met anyone that in an emergency, said, "I wish I had fewer rounds or a smaller caliber".
But the IDPA argument is a good one. The "six-shooter" one, not so much. After all, the single-action guns were commonly carried with only 5 rounds, so that the hammer was down on an empty chamber.
 
.357 Mag revolvers just seem right with 6 rounds. I'd go with 7 if the 7 shot versions didn't have the lock or the black MIM hammer and trigger. Just can't get by that.

I sold my 686-1 4" like 4 years ago. Got way less for it than I would get now. I regret selling it.

I'd buy a used 686 before I bought a new one.
 
I always harbored a secret fear that the 7 round version was not as strong as the 6 round version.

And then I read somewhere (on the internet!) that the timing is harder to maintain on the 7 round version -- that there are more problems with the cylinders on these guns.

But I bought the 7 round version anyway! And it seems like its built like a tank. Would like to hear more from someone with deep S&W knowledge whether one is "better" than the other.
 
I have both, no problems from either one, the 7 round speed loaders are a bit hard to find, but other than that no big difference.
 
I have the 686+ and 586 L Comp 7 shooters. I feel slightly sacrilegious but comforted by the extra round.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 
In terms of strength, the cylinder notches on the 6 shooter are over the chambers, while on the 7 shooter the notches are between cylinders. Does that make any difference applied to "real world" pressures? Most likely not, but it is stronger.

BTW, I am biased -- I own a 686-6 Plus.
 
I've been shooting 6 shot K and L frames for so long I just imagine myself .....shooting 6 and dumping the 7th.


Plus my supply of speedloaders...... are all 6 round....... OK OK there are a couple of 5rounders for the J-frames.
 
I always harbored a secret fear that the 7 round version was not as strong as the 6 round version.


I've thought about the same thing, how do you cram 7 rounds into a 6 round cylinder ?
I wonder if anyone has ever mic the cylinder to see if they are the same size because if it is that means they had to shave off thickness on the chambers.

No one can deny that an extra round is almost a 15% advantage, but I tend to favor even numbers. :)

Now when you look at the pug nose 8 rounder, that is one big cylinder. But the question still begs for an answer as to how thick that cylinder is compared to a traditional 6 rounder. My guess is it's an optical illusion in either case and those chamber walls are indeed thinner.
 
I've thought about the same thing, how do you cram 7 rounds into a 6 round cylinder ?
I wonder if anyone has ever mic the cylinder to see if they are the same size because if it is that means they had to shave off thickness on the chambers.

No one can deny that an extra round is almost a 15% advantage, but I tend to favor even numbers. :)

Now when you look at the pug nose 8 rounder, that is one big cylinder. But the question still begs for an answer as to how thick that cylinder is compared to a traditional 6 rounder. My guess is it's an optical illusion in either case and those chamber walls are indeed thinner.

I pondered much the same thing and went with the 6 round model 686.
 
I own a older 6 round 586 6" and recently picked up a 686 5" Talo in 7 round. The 586 is butter smooth and has had quite a bit of use. Talo turned out great. Very smooth, locks up solid, and cycles extremely fast. I'd take it over my 586 any day.
 
I had the thoughts that there could be differences in the strength
of the cylinders, and I would like to shoot some real heavy loads.
No doubt about the cylinder of the 7 has to be weaker in the area
BETWEEN each cylinder, but the notch being right on the chambers
of the 6 shot, make that the weakest part of the cylinder, and it
is right there about even with the chamber area where maximum chamber
pressure is generated, when guns fail it is often at a weak place.
I like the idea of the thick heavy chambers of the N frame, so
I thought maybe a model 27 or 28 would be nice, but I found
that the cylinder is shorter and you can't really load long bullets
like some of the heavy 180 thru 210 ones, and I like heavy
bullets, so that ruled the 27 and 28 out. Maybe I am just
over thinking this. Will probably go with the 7, probably the
7 inch barrel Talo, that ought to handle 200 grain semi wad cutters
pretty well. I have a 6 inch 22 cal, model 617 like this, and I like
it really well:
smith and wesson model 617 - Google Search

So if I do buy, probably the 7 rd model 686 Talo is what I will
go with:
https://www.gunsamerica.com/UserImages/110228/922046744/wm_3620323.jpg

Thanks for the comments.

Joe
 
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