686 barrel issues?

Dreslan

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Yesterday I was prowling my LGS as usual and was perusing a standard 4" 686+ they had in stock. Who doesn't need another 686, right? While looking it over, I noticed the rifling didn't quite look right. At first, it seemed that S&W had bored it with polygonal rifling right out of a Glock or H&K. When the gentleman behind the counter brought out a bore light, we saw that the rifling was nice and tight near the forcing cone, but as it got closer to the muzzle the lands and grooves disappeared and resembled more of a suggestion of actual rifling. I know every gun maker puts out a lemon once in a while, but messing up the rifling in the barrel seems like a pretty serious issue. My relatively new 6" 686+ doesn't look anything like this-I checked as soon as I got home! Has anyone else noticed this with any other models?
 
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Yep, it looks a lot like that. The thing that puzzles me is the unevenness of the rifling. Like I said, it looks like broached near that forcing cone, and gets steadily softer toward the muzzle.

Does anyone know what other models they're using this method on?
 
Does anyone know what other models they're using this method on?
I'm pretty sure it's been determined that all the S&W revolver rifling except .22LR is done electrically now, and has been since 1993.
 
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I expect that what you are observing is the rifling produced by the ECM process, which is best described as being over lapped or completely shot out. However I have a model 620 with an ECM barrel and after mounting a scope and practicing twice a week for 6 weeks I was able to shoot 7/8 inch groups at 50 Yards with it. Needless to say this rifling is capable of producing excellent accuracy but my one single experiment using Blazer LRN ammunition yielded a severely leaded barrel that took 12 hours of scrubbing to get clean. Since that experience I ONLY use Plated or jacketed bullets in my ECM barrels.
 
So, I don't have a 686 (I know, blasphemy), but have been looking for one. I handload a lot. My preference being LSWCs. Are you guys telling me that if I want acceptable performance without severe leading that I will need to look for a 686-3 or earlier?
 
Could always powder coat your bullets, or buy already coated bullets. I PC, HiTek, and VHT coated bullets in most my guns. Including a Colt PP made in 1911 with a worn bore. Not only will it cut down on leading, it will probably increase your velocity for the same loads. Especially with VHT, I get a bump of at least 25fps over lubed cast.

Bayou Bullets sells HiTek coated bullets for a fair price, same for Acme Bullets. I use both in the Glocks, barrels are extremely easy to clean after shooting. I have never seen any leading using any of the coatings.
 
Could always powder coat your bullets, or buy already coated bullets. I PC, HiTek, and VHT coated bullets in most my guns. Including a Colt PP made in 1911 with a worn bore. Not only will it cut down on leading, it will probably increase your velocity for the same loads. Especially with VHT, I get a bump of at least 25fps over lubed cast.

Bayou Bullets sells HiTek coated bullets for a fair price, same for Acme Bullets. I use both in the Glocks, barrels are extremely easy to clean after shooting. I have never seen any leading using any of the coatings.

Good to know. I buy a lot of bullets from Acme.
 
So, I don't have a 686 (I know, blasphemy), but have been looking for one. I handload a lot. My preference being LSWCs. Are you guys telling me that if I want acceptable performance without severe leading that I will need to look for a 686-3 or earlier?

I have a 686-6 that has had LSWC's shot through it for years and is my most accurate handgun.
 
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