RichCapeCod
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- Joined
- Feb 20, 2006
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A little epoxy and it'll be just fine...
I'm guessing the barrel was over torqued. Looking at the line on the barrel where it meets the frame sure doesn't look lined up. Give S&W the chance to make it right. I bought a 2 month old 686 from a guy that was supposed to have a box shot out of it. Ran great till I shot full on magnums and the cylinder would lock up. Probably why I got it so cheap! S&W sent a return tag and about 2 weeks later I got it back. About 2K rounds now, half full magnum and no problems.
This is A LOT of lead!
I agree. I can't speak to the 4" version but my 2 1/2" 686+ fully loaded with 7 rounds weighs right at 40 oz.
That 40 oz compares to:
2 3/4" Speed Six, 38 oz;
3" Model 13, 36.7 oz;
2 1/2" Model 66, 36 oz;
3" SP101, 29.6 oz; and
3" Model 60, 26 oz.
With a good double thickness leather gun belt and a good IWB holster I don't notice the extra 10 to 14 oz of the Model 66, Model 13, Speed Six or 686 when carrying them, but I sure notice the lack of that 10-14 oz when shooting a Model 60 with .357 Magnum loads and the 30 oz SP101 isn't much better.
I carried a 5" 1911 a long time ago as well as a Hi Power for several years. The 686 is easier - and a lot less bulky - to carry than either of those pistols.We can all carry what we want. It's not the weight. I can carry a full size 1911 no problem.
A google search on the OP's thread title, "686 cracked frame", finds enough instances to show that L-frame ejector slot cracking is not a particularly rare occurrence.All the ones I saw were aluminum J-frames, not L-frames.
A google search on the OP's thread title, "686 cracked frame", finds enough instances to show that L-frame ejector slot cracking is not a particularly rare occurrence.
A cracked frame under the barrel may be due to overtightening the barrel in assembly. This has been discussed recently on the Smith-Wesson forum. I'm assuming the OP actually meant the frame [as described] rather than the barrel.
I wouldn't trade any of my S&Ws for a Python, especially my 686s..
I have a Python...No cracks
I have a Python...No cracks
Last year I bought a S&W 686+ Talo exclusive with the 3" bbl. It is S&W #150713. Once it arrived (Bought from Davidson's GOG), I gave it to my brother who is a retired LEO who was a range officer at his dept. and also a huge gun enthusiast. He wanted to look it over closely and check the action to see if it would help to have it tuned a bit. Well, he noticed almost immediately a crack about 3/4" above where the serial # is stamped. Since I had not even put a single round through it yet we had to assume either it cracked from the two shots S&W did for testing or was a manufacturing defect (over torque on the bbl assembly). I called Smith and went through the normal process to send it off to them. Once they had a chance to look it over they called me and said they were sending me a new gun. A few weeks later it arrived and all has been good with the replacement thus far. Although I am disappointed that I would even have received a gun with a frame crack I am appreciative with how easy it was to deal with the return and replacement. I have since bought a 686+ #178029 with the 4"bbl and both of these are more fun to shoot than my Ruger GP100 Match Champion. Yeah...they got the IL but I for one am glad Smith is still making revolvers and will continue to add to my collection (although I hope to find some older discontinued models such as a model 66 or K frame in general). I don't have the picture posting dialed in so anyone interested in seeing a picture of the crack in my 686 just PM me. My crack was almost in the same identical spot to the picture posted earlier by Macinaw.