686 cylinder won't rotate in double action, sometimes

[Vanimal]

Hello,

My buddy offered me his 686 for cheap. My only concern is that he told me the cylinder doesn't rotate in double action sometimes but, when you cock the hammer it does. He's only put about 60 rounds through it and he's the first owner. Anyone know what may be the problem and how to fix it?
Thanks

 

[Glocktimus]

If he's the first owner, get him to send it back to S&W to put right, then buy it off him ?! Except, once it's fixed maybe he won't want to sell !!

 

[theoneff]

What is cheap. Buy it from him and then send it back yourself. They will fix it. Theo

 

[Vanimal]

It's a 686 plus (7 shot). $650 including about 80 rounds of ammo (20 hydrashock). Yeah, I was thinking to just call S&W on his behalf tomorrow.

 

[Vanimal]

I think it's the double action sear, anyway I think I'll get him to send it back after I put a deposit on it.

 

[SLT223]

Buy it, and pop off the side plate to see what's going on. There really isn't too much to these things. If you can't find and fix the issue, then send it off. That's what I would do anyway.

 

[S&W Rover]

I would buy it for that price (assuming it is otherwise in good shape, e.g., cylinder/forcing cone gap within spec, good lockup, no end shake, bore pristine, overall finish good) and ship it off to S&W.

"Doesn't rotate" could mean a couple of things. I have a model 65-5 that developed "cylinder cramps" (e.g., the cylinder wouldn't rotate) and S&W fixed it up for me for free. (I found out later I could have fixed it myself, just be removing the cylinder and cleaning the extractor rod).

Taking the side plate off can be tricky... and leave marks.

 

[theoneff]

DO NOT pry the side plate off!!! Tap the grip frame with a piece of wood or Nylon mallet over a towel. It will come loose

 

[qballwill]

Have you tried it yourself. If he is shooting it fast, he Mau be short cycling the trigger. If that's the case, there is nothing wrong with the gun.

 

[kaaskop49]

Same thing would happen with a lightly used 66 I purchased a few years back. Turned out one sideplate screw was not tight. Used the proper screwdriver, gun works 100% DA.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[Vanimal]

Thanks for all the great insight.
No, I have yet to shoot it. He said he's only shot it twice, total of around 60 rounds.
I think I'm going to call S&W tomorrow and ask them if they'll take care of it. I'm probably going to buy it.

 

[BE Mike]

Have you tried it yourself. If he is shooting it fast, he Mau be short cycling the trigger. If that's the case, there is nothing wrong with the gun.

Those were my thoughts as well. Every revolver shooter has done this a time or two, if he/she has shot them extensively. Always remember to keep the area under the ejection star clean and dry (no oil).

 

[sawgrass]

My 686 + Talo had a similar problem a few months ago. When I purchased it, the original owner had only put 21 rounds through it. First chance I had to take it to the range, the cylinder started binding up in DA mode, couldn't get the cylinder to turn in SA either when the binding occurred. I emptied the cylinder, dry fired a few times in DA but could tell something wasn't right. A few days later I cleaned the gun and found while dry-firing slowly that the binding was occurring only on one chamber, others seemed OK. Upon opening the cylinder, and taking a close look, I noticed a small metal burr wedged into one of the ratchet gaps. Removed the burr, cleaned, lightly oiled the ratchet and dry-fired several times. It now works fine in DA and SA. The conclusive test will be made at the range with live ammo as I don't have any snap caps handy to test with. I also found a thread (today) from 2009 about a member from Sweden having the same problem with a 617, the problem being defined as binding of the hand with the ratchet. I think that I lucked out and solved my problem with cleaning, oil and dry firing. The OP from the attached thread ended up doing some DIY filing to correct the ratchet. I don't recommend that, let S&W do that. Otherwise, it sounds like you have a good deal at hand and it should be worth the wait to let the pros do it right. Good luck.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/113089-hand-binding-ratchet-mod-617-a.html

 

[HarrishMasher]

Not sure why you would buy a used one that does not work properly at that price, when you can get a brand new one at that price. For example Kentucky Gun Co has 3" 7 shot 686+ for $681 and free shipping.

Smith & Wesson Model 686 Plus 357-Mag 38-Special

 

[Vanimal]

Not sure why you would buy a used one that does not work properly at that price, when you can get a brand new one at that price. For example Kentucky Gun Co has 3" 7 shot 686+ for $681 and free shipping.

Smith & Wesson Model 686 Plus 357-Mag 38-Special

I live in California... [emoji20]

 

[rbert0005]

First clean itinside and out. Flush the inards, make sure to clean under the extractor star.
Make sure the extractor rod is tight and not bent.
Other than that you should be good to go.

By the way, S&W doesn't care if you are the original owner or not.

Bob

 

[H Richard]

As I understand the original question, "sometimes" the cylinder won't rotate when the trigger is pulled. That doesn't indicate any binding to me. I'm betting someone has been inside this and the hand spring (inside the trigger) is slipped off (or broken). This can be a reasonably easy fix if you know what to do and have a few correct tools.

 

[Vanimal]

I'm 99.99999% sure my buddy hasn't opened it up. I have yet to inspect it though. In just going to have S&W deal with it. Probably going to "pull the trigger on it," [emoji23]

 

[qballwill]

Before you contact s&w,shoot it yourself and try to get it to replicate the issue in your hands. If he is not letting the trigger reset fully which usually happens during rapid fire, the cylinder will sometimes not cycle.

 

[shawn mccarver]

I agree with H. Richard. The first thing I would check is to make sure the hand has spring tension. You can do that without removing the sideplate.

Open cylinder, and use a non-marring "tool" such as a golf tee, or similar. Insert the tool through the window in the bolster face, and push the hand back into the frame a few millimeters. Release tension, and it should "spring" back into place with some force and with spring tension. It will "snap" back forward. If it does not, then the spring has come from behind the stud inside the trigger, and just needs to be repositioned, or it is broken, in which case it should be replaced.