Try as I may, neither I nor the guys at the range (who have the proper tools) can budge the front sight pin on my 686. Not sure what dash it is, but it's this year's production. Heating has been suggested. Any comments or advice?
686 front sight pin
- Thread starter epj
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OP
Try as I may, neither I nor the guys at the range (who have the proper tools) can budge the front sight pin on my 686. Not sure what dash it is, but it's this year's production. Heating has been suggested. Any comments or advice?
S&W revolverman
Member
epj,
Comment: with the barrel pointing downrange (perpendicular to you), the pin should be driven out from left to right. Installation would be the reverse.
Might try soaking it in some Kroil overnight. Then with Kroil still on it, just keep tapping the pin with the correct punch, then hit it a little harder every once in a while, while still tapping it.
Hope this helps
chris
Comment: with the barrel pointing downrange (perpendicular to you), the pin should be driven out from left to right. Installation would be the reverse.
Might try soaking it in some Kroil overnight. Then with Kroil still on it, just keep tapping the pin with the correct punch, then hit it a little harder every once in a while, while still tapping it.
Hope this helps
chris
OP
Anyone care to comment on the advisability of drilling out the pin with a 1/16" bit and installing a new 1/16" pin? All the 1/16" stuff is readily available, (.0625 vs the .055). Would the .007 make a difference?
JKeefer
Member
EPJ;
The key is a very firm, solid support, and short stub punches. The pins are not hard, but the same applies to drilling. The setup must be very ridgid. The fixture for such work, cutting front sight keyways and such is rather expensive..and are adjustable for different barrel lengths to place support directly under the sight while removing the pin. I'd post a picture, but don't know how...
Good luck
Jerry
The key is a very firm, solid support, and short stub punches. The pins are not hard, but the same applies to drilling. The setup must be very ridgid. The fixture for such work, cutting front sight keyways and such is rather expensive..and are adjustable for different barrel lengths to place support directly under the sight while removing the pin. I'd post a picture, but don't know how...
Good luck
Jerry
OP
If I can hold the barrel in a solid bench vise, would that be riged enough?I had previously supported it on a very solid steel work bench with a piece of very hard wood actually absorbing the blow.
tomcatt51
Member
I wouldn't use a vice. You had the right idea with a block of wood. You need an accomplice to hold the gun with the sight base supported on the wood block, a good fitting punch (I have 1/16" Proto punches that are just enough undersize to fit well) and a 2 lb hammer. Give it a good wack.
Hoptob
Member
epj,
What punch are you using? You need 0.050" not 1/16" punch - it's available from Brownells. You can also use shaft of a #54 drill bit as a punch. Bits are available from ACE - http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/productDetails.aspx?SKU=24932 for $2.
If you have a roll pin, you should be able to drill it out. 1/16 probably wouldn't make any difference. But you could get right drill bit (#54) from ACE and pins from S&W or Brownells. I'd drill with smaller bit (#60-#58) first and go halfway from both ends.
Mike
P.S. Tomcat, 1/16" punch sometimes does not fit in the frame hole. Mike.
What punch are you using? You need 0.050" not 1/16" punch - it's available from Brownells. You can also use shaft of a #54 drill bit as a punch. Bits are available from ACE - http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/productDetails.aspx?SKU=24932 for $2.
If you have a roll pin, you should be able to drill it out. 1/16 probably wouldn't make any difference. But you could get right drill bit (#54) from ACE and pins from S&W or Brownells. I'd drill with smaller bit (#60-#58) first and go halfway from both ends.
Mike
P.S. Tomcat, 1/16" punch sometimes does not fit in the frame hole. Mike.
tomcatt51
Member
As I said, the Proto's I have are undersize enough to fit very nicely.
OP
I turned my 1/16th down in a drill press with some emory cloth until it was about .053. Looked like a pretzel after hitting it once. Obviously not hardened very well. Back to the drawing board. Got a plate match coming up Saturday. Sure would like to have the FO sight
.
Hoptob
Member
Is there ACE hardware store in town? Around here they have numbered drill bits on the shelves.
Mike
Mike
tomcatt51
Member
These work: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=2209061&PMT4NO=0
Best I've found. They hold up when things get stubborn.
Best I've found. They hold up when things get stubborn.
SW CQB 45
Member
you need a very short starting punch.
can you make a stub punch out of the pretzel you turned down .053" just to start the pin moving.
I bet SW used some type of adhesive to backup the pin.
can you make a stub punch out of the pretzel you turned down .053" just to start the pin moving.
I bet SW used some type of adhesive to backup the pin.
OP
Yeah, I'll try that. Gonna have to get another 1/16 punch or two though. Hopefully I can find a hardened one locally. 10-4 on the adhesive. Suspect it has some loctite there as well.
OP
Well, I tred the very short punch. Now the end of the punch is broken off in the hole with just enough sticking out that I can't get a grip on it with anything.
I may have no choice now but to drill the pin out from the other side. Gotta lay hands on some good quality #53 or #54 bits.
SW CQB 45
Member
Originally posted by epj:
Well, I tred the very short punch. Now the end of the punch is broken off in the hole with just enough sticking out that I can't get a grip on it with anything.I may have no choice now but to drill the pin out from the other side. Gotta lay hands on some good quality #53 or #54 bits.
that suxs. I wonder if these are any good?
http://shorinternational.com/Punches.htm
Try filing very carefully the end of the broken piece in the pin hole, making it as flat as possible, then get some Lyman pin punches. I have used mine to move or remove several S&W sight pins as well as other small pins on S&W guns. They seem to be quite sturdy punches, and I'm more than pleased with them. Also the penetrating oil idea is a good one, give it a whole day to work on the pin.
