686: How did I do?

MWark

MWark

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I've been looking for a 686 for a little while and last night I finally found a nice 4", -1.

The gun is in nice shape, I would rate it 95%+ with perfect bore and original grip. No factory box but I did get a nice suede pistol case, 250 rounds of factory 357, 400 rounds of reloaded 38 wad cutters and 20 plastics ammo boxes.
I gave up $400.00 for the whole lot.

The way I'm looking at it is I received roughly $150.00 worth of ammo and extras which put me into the revolver for about $250.:)

So far I've only had snap caps in it but tonight I'll punch some holes.
 
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I'd say that you got a very good deal especially since it's a 4 inch model
 
I knew about the recall. It has been stamped.

Good point about the reloads. I was thinking that I might shoot the wad cutters in my J frame but that might not be smart.
 
A local shop has a 4" no-dash I'm thinking about. They're asking $400 for it without any extras and showing some signs of use. I think its an OK deal: I'm looking for a 4" for my No-Dash L frame collection, and I know I can polish some of the light scratches out of the stainless steel. It sounds like you did very well. Good luck with it.
Regarding the reloads: I'd be cautious also. A friend was given a bunch of reloads and had a Kaboom in his new 1911. But when I saw the rest of the bagful, they were sloppy looking: no reloading boxes, bullets loose in the cases, etc. No way I would have shot those. On the other hand, if they looked like they were relaoded by someone who knew what they were doing, and if the dealer knows the person who traded the gun and (I assume) the reloads in, and especially if I could pull a couple of them to check the components, then I might use them up. 400 is a lot of shooting.
 
The funny thing is the seller was asking $350.00 or best offer.

When I contacted him he told me that someone had emailed him ahead of me and said that he would take the gun. The seller was waiting to hear from this person again to setup a meeting. He also said that in addition to the two of us he had received a "surprising" number of emails expressing an interest in the gun.

I felt certain that the first person to get his hands on the gun was going to own it.
I told him that it was very nice of him to hold the gun for the person that had gotten to him first but that if the gun was what he described I would be willing to pay $400.
He groaned.

I then said. If you are interested in my $400 I need to hear from you by 4pm today; that was one hour away.

At 3:58 my cell rang and he said I could have the gun. My little gambit may have cost me an extra $50 but I'm okay with that.:cool:
 
Paid $550 shipped for a mint 686-3 4" three months ago, and that was the best deal I saw. No box or papers. You did excellent!
 
Well we'll see....

I fired the gun tonight and it shot beautifully until I dropped the hammer on a dead round.

Lock up!

I mean complete lock up. I can't move a dam thing. After 30 minutes of swatting deer flies and banging the cylinder with the heal of my right hand I give up.

I've never taken a "hot" gun to a gun smith but tomorrow that's just what I'm going to do.

Man this sucks... It was shooting so well.

Looks like I may have been celebrating prematurely. :(
 
You also may have a primer that has flown back around the firing pin, especially if the firing pin hole is slightly enlarged. Try to pull back slightly on the hammer, and hold it there while trying to open the cylinder. If the primer has flown back into the pin hole, the cylinder can be forced open by hand pressure. It will shave off the high spot on the primer. You'd be suprised how much primer flow can hold a cylinder shut.:eek:

S&W Chad's idea, is probably the culprit, but check everything you can before shelling out money to a 'smith.
 
Take a cleaning rod with a flat tipped jag on it, and drive the bullet back into the chamber. It'll move quite easily.

You can also use a wooden dowell rod that is slightly smaller than bore diameter.

One other thing you can use is a phillips screwdriver, but make certain that you have it centered on the bullet before you try to drive it back out. If you do it right, it'll dig into the softer lead and stay centered.
 
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Drive it back into the cylinder, ideally with a brass rod that just fits the bore.

edit: Wow, that was fast! A wood dowel should work too. Go slow.
 
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That worked!:D


Thanks. I feel like such a noob!

I love my new gun again. LMAO
 
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