686 mainspring selection problems

[ZMan57]

Hi everyone,

FNG here with a problem and some questions...

I installed a Wolf Reduced Power mainspring in my new 686 plus, and, despite also installing an extended firing pin from C&S, I was getting 1 misfire per cylinder on average (using Remmington ammo).
Did this happen to anyone - is there something I overlooked - I really like(d) that trigger pull.

So I gave up on the Wolf Reduced Power spring for now, and replaced it with the Regular Power Wolf spring, since it still delivers a lighter trigger pull than the OEM one, but now the revolver is hard to cock in single action mode - there is a fair amount of resistance to overcome at the end. The tension of the screw tightening the spring doesn't seem to affect it.
Any idea what is going on?.. And can I use the extended firing pin with the regular power OEM mainspring?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Blueduck]

I think if you search around here I had the EXACT same problem with my 686 last week.

Ended up I needed a longer strain screw, luckily I had one in an old parts box, and that fixed it right up.

 

[rbert0005]

I have no use for the reduced power main springs. I have good luck with a 14lb rebound spring coupled with a strain screw that I cut back by .015".
A little polishing of the slide and channel doesn't hurt either.

Bob

 

[Nightowl]

Remove the grips and see if it still has binding on pulling the trigger. Sometimes the stock cross pin contacts the spring. I will not use aftermarket springs, as I have not had much luck with them.

 

[fomcco]

I had the same problem with the Wolff Standard Power mainspring. I found the rebound slide was hitting the mainspring just before full travel. I tried bending the Wolff mainspring more, but that gave light strikes. I ended up putting the OEM mainspring back in. A longer strain screw might have worked, but I don't know where to get one of those.
But I was able to use the Wolff 13 lb. rebound spring, which reduced the trigger pull to about 8 lbs.

 

[GreyRider]

What fomcco said. The rebound slide is hitting the spring. An extended strain screw is supposed to fix it. I also put the factory spring back in.

 

[ZMan57]

Thanks everyone - fomcco and GreyRider in particular : )

I'm somewhat surprised that, despite their overall great rep, not all of Wolf's products are ready for prime time...
I emailed them and they asked me to give Dave a call - I will post whatever he says (that makes sense).

Now for that extended strain screw - while hopefully fixing the problem, it should also stiffen the trigger pull, correct?.. And is this an actual aftermarket accessory, or just a screw someone found and adapted?

You gentlemen are great - thanks for the help!

 

[H Richard]

The fix is to re-install the "Original" mainspring. At the most, put a 14 lb return spring in it and a little stoning in the correct places and the proper minimal lube.

 

[ZMan57]

Just hung up with Dave and he confirmed what fomcco and Grey Rider said, pretty much word for word.
They are now making new dyes for the new springs, and will even offer extended strain screws at some point. ETA is early next year from what I gathered.
Those screws, it turns out, were used in the square butts, but have been discontinued by the otherwise thoughtful folks at S&W.
I was very impressed with the way he just took responsibility and talked about what they are doing about it, without trying to make excuses, etc.

And I just found and ordered the said screw on Ebay for $9, and I really hope it works, since the trigger pull with the OEM spring back in, even with the 13lb rebound spring installed (no stoning though, I need to build up my comfort level with "gunsmithing" revolvers some more for that) is still not great.
My old Model 19 with no action work is both smoother and less stiff...

 

[ZMan57]

Update - the following spring/screw/firing pin combination has produced zero lite strikes/misfires so far (75 rds):

Wolf reduced power mainspring
Square butt strain screw
Wolf 13 lb return spring - I also tried the 11lb one, but trigger return was too sluggish
C&S extended firing pin

Trigger pull weighs in at ~8lbs, but because the exact spot where the roller of the Lyman's gauge settles on the face of the trigger provides less leverage than when the finger is used, IMO the actual pull is more like 7lbs, and is very smooth. The bottom of the rebound slide is showing some wear marks, so most likely some polishing of the frame is called for - not sure what to use for that, though?..
Overall, I am very happy with this trigger - thanks, everyone, for pointing me in the right direction!

 

[rbert0005]

If you don't have any polishing stones you can flatten a piece of dowel wood and use some 600 wet/ dry paper cut to size to get in there with.
You need to do the bearing surfaces. Side and bottom.

Use that same piece of paper to smooth out the rebound slide.
Lay it on something FLAT and draw the slide along it.
I use a worn piece for this. Much less aggressive.

Have fun,
Bob

 

[slickracer]

What fomcco said. The rebound slide is hitting the spring. An extended strain screw is supposed to fix it. I also put the factory spring back in.

I've had the same trouble with my 617 with a Wolff standard power mainspring- rebound slide was hitting the MAIN spring at the hammer neared full cock. I also had the same problem in a 19-7. It seems the last two standard power springs I bought do not have enough arch.

With my 686, it would not fire with a reduced power mainspring and the stock strain screw. Because it is a range gun only, I used an 8-32 setscrew and dialed it in until I had 100% reliability, then added a drop of green loctite to hold the screw. Has worked great for over a year and a couple thousand rounds.

 

[stantheman86]

I used a Wolff type II in my 64-7, I had to use a new, full length strain screw to get the mainspring to clear the rebound slide at full hammer cock. I used a blue one because the steel is harder.