686 Plus need help with cleaning up the trigger.

[Petrov]

I got myself a 686 plus and after pulling the factory trigger I put it on the shelf and ordered TK custom DAO hammer and their trigger and extended firing pin.
Installed the hammer and the trigger, the trigger was rubbing a bit on one side so I installed a 0.002 shim on that side. Trimmed the strain screw until I got 6.8 pound trigger pull.
Now I have a very consistent trigger pull all the way until it hits the "wall". I hear 1st click followed by 2nd click and the trigger is smooth but the release of the hammer itself feels just a bit gritty and inconsistent. I have the Khunhausnen (sic?) revolver manual and will dig it out and go through it.
Meanwhile any hints at what I should look at?
Edit: I did not use the TK custom rebound slide since it would not let the hammer drop.

 

[chief38]

I got myself a 686 plus and after pulling the factory trigger I put it on the shelf and ordered TK custom DAO hammer and their trigger and extended firing pin.
Installed the hammer and the trigger, the trigger was rubbing a bit on one side so I installed a 0.002 shim on that side. Trimmed the strain screw until I got 6.8 pound trigger pull.
Now I have a very consistent trigger pull all the way until it hits the "wall". I hear 1st click followed by 2nd click and the trigger is smooth but the release of the hammer itself feels just a bit gritty and inconsistent. I have the Khunhausnen (sic?) revolver manual and will dig it out and go through it.
Meanwhile any hints at what I should look at?
Edit: I did not use the TK custom rebound slide since it would not let the hammer drop.

Hard to zero in on your problem without having your 686 in my hands. Could be something due to the shim you installed. Could be a poorly cut sear / trigger engagement etc. I would take the shim out and even though it was rubbing a bit, see if you get the same results without the shim. If not, I'd say it might be the shim addition changing the fit. The .002" shim might be too much, maybe not enough - you can try a .001 and if not enough try a .001 + .002 = .003" Use a magnifying glass and inspect the hammer/trigger surfaces that interact. Also look for small scratch marks on the new parts - might indicate where the issue is.

I personally would have simply replaced the rebound spring with a lighter 11 or 12 pound spring and bought a few extra strain screws to fit to a shorter dimension and left the original. If you only want to shoot DA then just pull the trigger - but you still have the occasional option for SA fire if you need or want it. You probably won't get down to 6.8 pounds but around 8 is nice for DA as well. All I can say is that if you didn't have that issue before replacing the hammer & trigger it's obviously related to them or how they fit. Let us know how you make out. Sorry I could not have been of more help but long distance is difficult to diagnose issues with after market parts.

 

[Petrov]

Thank you! Will take a look today and try removing the shim.

 

[richrd]

Does the gun go bang at 6.8?

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

No comment

 

[bigggbbruce]

Is your stain screw tightened with side plate off.

 

[Nightowl]

It apears to me that the back of the slide is hitting on the mainspring. There is not enough bend in the spring, likely caused by shortening the strain screw. A spring with not enough bend can also bind when the stirrup runs up against the hammer.

 

[bigggbbruce]

Never mind

 

[Olafhardt]

Thank you! Will take a look today and try removing the shim.

I got myself a 686 plus and after pulling the factory trigger I put it on the shelf and ordered TK custom DAO hammer and their trigger and extended firing pin.
Installed the hammer and the trigger, the trigger was rubbing a bit on one side so I installed a 0.002 shim on that side. Trimmed the strain screw until I got 6.8 pound trigger pull.
Now I have a very consistent trigger pull all the way until it hits the "wall". I hear 1st click followed by 2nd click and the trigger is smooth but the release of the hammer itself feels just a bit gritty and inconsistent. I have the Khunhausnen (sic?) revolver manual and will dig it out and go through it.
Meanwhile any hints at what I should look at?
Edit: I did not use the TK custom rebound slide since it would not let the hammer drop.

I have " fixed" several bad triggers by dry firing a few hundred times. I do this with all my new revolvers even rimfires. I remember driving down the highway with my brand new model 34 just clicking away. Oil it first. My new Model 63 responded very well to this treatment.

 

[Protocall_Design]

You can put a large radius bend near the top of the spring to clear the rebound slide. It won't take much. Then get a longer strain screw and work it to the desired spring tension, like before.

 

[H Richard]

Going through all that with a "New" gun? An evening dry firing, and putting about 500 rounds through the gun would smooth up pretty well, as well as exercising your trigger finger enough to handle more than 6.8 Lbs.

 

[Bullseye Smith]

Sir, I think your first mistake was the TK stuff, (your choice). Check the gap between the cylinder and barrel. Smith says .002 clearance, I always use .003 myself, also look at the face of the cylinder for a Brite shiny ring around the openings on the barrel end of the cylinder. If it is shiny, they are touching barrel. I have a 686-5 that I built from scratch that has a 3-pound double action trigger pull, only tick to it is you must use Federal primers. All stock S&W parts except the springs. I forgot something, if the barrel gap is ok put a empty Case in and place under the firing pin and push a .006 feeler gauge from the right side between the case and the firing pin face. Dry fire or shoot it about 500 times and tear down and look at the contact points for even wear. Take a Super fine nail file and go over the outside of all moving parts.

 

[Petrov]

Hello folks I used a sharpie to mark where the trigger and the hammer sear surfaces are touching, dry fired it a couple of times and cleaned up with a super fine stone several times. Now I have a consistent trigger.
No I did not have the strain screw "on" when I took the side plate off ! I learned that lesson 10 years ago with an N frame

 

[Petrov]

You can put a large radius bend near the top of the spring to clear the rebound slide. It won't take much. Then get a longer strain screw and work it to the desired spring tension, like before.

So that would let me keep the strain screw "stock" and manipulate the spring instead?

 

[Petrov]

Sir, I think your first mistake was the TK stuff, (your choice). Check the gap between the cylinder and barrel. Smith says .002 clearance, I always use .003 myself, also look at the face of the cylinder for a Brite shiny ring around the openings on the barrel end of the cylinder. If it is shiny, they are touching barrel. I have a 686-5 that I built from scratch that has a 3-pound double action trigger pull, only tick to it is you must use Federal primers. All stock S&W parts except the springs. I forgot something, if the barrel gap is ok put a empty Case in and place under the firing pin and push a .006 feeler gauge from the right side between the case and the firing pin face. Dry fire or shoot it about 500 times and tear down and look at the contact points for even wear. Take a Super fine nail file and go over the outside of all moving parts.

Thank you for that tip! I forgot to even bother to check the barrel clearance! Also what is wrong with TK parts?

 

[Petrov]

It apears to me that the back of the slide is hitting on the mainspring. There is not enough bend in the spring, likely caused by shortening the strain screw. A spring with not enough bend can also bind when the stirrup runs up against the hammer.

Wow! I feel like a clueless boob! I can believe I missed that! thank you. This halloween I will be dressing up as Captain Oblivious!

 

[Jimmymac46]

I have " fixed" several bad triggers by dry firing a few hundred times. I do this with all my new revolvers even rimfires. I remember driving down the highway with my brand new model 34 just clicking away. Oil it first. My new Model 63 responded very well to this treatment.

Dry fire, dry fire, dry fire. Shoot bad guys on the tv for accuracy work. Get them before they leave the screen. When you hit 1000 dry shots, it will work flawlessly. Smooth as glass. Smiths only get better, not worms out. Can only attest to smith revolvers, K’s L’s and N’s. They just get better and better, and better.

IMPORTANT- One more point. If you modify the trigger on any gun you carry for self defense, then are unlucky enough to ever have to use it in a self defense situation, you will be in BIG trouble. Attorney’s will make you look like a suspect and a gun nut; grips ok, mechanical……you are a predator. Return it to factory stock, or don’t use it for self defense.

 

[Petrov]

Hey folks. So shooting it first comment. S&W sent me a revolver that was so packed with steel shavings and dust that I could not chamber rounds or reliably cycle the action. I had to take the darn thing apart and rip each and every internal piece out to remove the steel shavings.
This is going to be my steel plate gun, I am very familiar with the ability of prosecutors and lawyers to perverse the truth and objective reality.

 

[Bullseye Smith]

I Have 686 just like yours, that front sight was the first thing to go, HAHA. I would take rubbing Alcohol and clean the inside with a brush to get the fine stuff out. Plus use 600 wet/dry 3m paper to smooth things up on the inside.