686 plus pro or 986

[Revolver_guy]

I need help deciding between getting a 686 plus pro 7 Round 5"Barrel SKU# 178038 or 986 9mm. I know that both are virtually the same gun, the main difference besides caliber is the cylinder and weight. I will NOT be competing with this gun or using it for protection. It will just be used as an overkill range gun. The price difference doesn't matter to me as I have no problem affording either one.

Due to a disability I have lost the strength in my grip and can no longer cycle a slide so I'm switching to revolvers. I have owned a few wheel guns over the years but the only S&W that I have used a lot is a model 19-4 and can shoot it without too many issues but but unfortunately its not not mine. I don't want a larger heavier N frame. If I went with the 686 I would be shooting 38 special 80% of the time.
I went down to the local gun stores and none had either in stock, the only ones they had in the store to handle that were close was a 686 ssr and a Model 66.

What I like about the 986 is that 9mm is cheaper than 38 special, the unique factor, and that it is a few ounces lighter than the 686 which might matter after adding the extra weight of a red dot or other optics. But I have heard that some cheap 9mm don't fit very good in the moon clips so that might cancel out any savings if I have to buy better quality 9mm. I also don't like the fact that some gun smiths refuse to do any custom work like chamfer the cylinders on a titanium cylinder and I have read about other possible maintenance concerns with having a titanium cylinder.

What I like about the 686 is that I can shoot much weaker 38 spc. loads and have less recoil and faster follow up shots compared to most factory 9mm loads but still use 357 when extra power is needed. What I don't like about it is it weighs more than the 986 and model 19 Im use to shooting.


For those of you that have shot, or own both or one of them is there any advantages of one vs the other that I should be aware of?

 

[loeman]

I probably shouldn't chime in here because I don't own either one. However, I sure would like to have a 986.

 

[Bozz10mm]

I want a 686.

 

[epj]

Though I am somewhat interested in the 986, I would call S&W and inquire about the bore diameter of the 9mm. Is it .355 or is it .357? While Smith knows, no doubt, how to build a proper 9mm revolver, the question is "Will they?" or will they use parts common to the .38/.357? Same question goes for chamber throats.

 

[robert1804]

I own a 986 and several 686's but not the pro (yet). Hands down, get the 686 Pro. The 986 is a fine gun but it has drawbacks. Factory 9mm ammo is pretty snappy out of a 986. Many, but not all, 986 owners don't get very good accuracy from factory ammo. The 986 is more a competition and reloaders gun. You will need a good moon/de-moon tool and lots of moon clips with a 986. The 986 does have a real advantage in having a plain Partridge front sight which is much better for target shooting, especially indoors.

 

[Revolver_guy]

Thanks, That was the type of information I was looking for.

 

[dwever]

While the 9mm less expensive ammo is a very compelling reason for the 986, having to constantly use moon clips in the 986 is a major pain in the rear, and you'll want to buy a de-mooner tool and a moon clip loader to prolong the life of your moon clips. Additionally, having to sit down after a trip to the range and strip moon clips is a pain; doing it at the range is even worse. If you physical limitation keeps you from cycling a semi-auto, considerably more force can be required to strip a moon clip with certain ammo/moon clip thickness combinations.

Add to that the fact that moon clips come in different thicknesses which you have to match the thickness to the particular ammo manufacturer, causing you to stock multiple thicknesses of moon clips unless you only use one ammo, and the pain in the rear just keeps growing. That caused me to stick to Federal and American Eagle ammo so I am just stocking one thickness.

Then, do you use the carbon steel moon clips (I do for defensive carry) or do you use the alloy moon clips (I do for competition)? Add to that the fact that with a titanium cylinder that restricts bullet weight. Finally S&W has not done a great job getting consistent results from it's 9mm revolvers.

All of that to say, for the moment, I am shooting .38/.38+/.357 in performance center S&W's. The SSR's have had a problem with clean action out of the box which seems odd for a competition targeted design. You'll generally get a much smoother action with a PC 586 L-Comp or PC 686+. I recommend the 686+ or 586 L-Comp (the L-Comp is only 2 oz. heavier than a 986) if L frame is important.

Not using the weapon for competition or protection there is zero reason to chamfer the cylinder especially if you use carbon moon clips.

Good luck

 

[bigwheelzip]

Many, but not all, 986 owners don't get very good accuracy from factory ammo.

I had been looking at the 9mm revolver for a while. The user reports on this forum have convinced me not to get it.

 

[rbmorse]

I have a 986. I like my 986, it's a good gun. If I were to do it all over again, I'd get the 686 Pro for the reasons/issues above, although I think dwever is overstating the moon clip issue. There is some expense involved, but for me moon clips moves the loading/reloading monkey motions from the range to my easy chair in front of the TV. Yes, you need a good tool, too.

The 986 is a specialized product (I think that's why it's labeled with the "Pro Series" branding).

The 686 really is a better general purpose gun.

Personally, I think the 686 shooting factory 158g jacketed flat point is softer than the 986 shooting 124g, FMJ or plated ball, especially the NATO loads you see once in a while.

 

[Neumann]

I recently purchased a 686 +7 PC, and recommend it highly for concealed carry and personal defense.

The 686 +7 PC and 986 are fundamentally different in purpose. The 986 is a competition gun with a 5" barrel, which is on the long side for concealed carry. When it comes to clearing leather, longer is slower, especially if from a high-ride holster. The OEM Patridge front sight is easily changed for something more practical for self defense. My recommendation is a fiber optic.

The 686 PC has a 2-1/2" barrel, best reserved for concealed carry and self defense at close (< 7 yards) range. The non-fluted (stylish feature) cylinder is cut for moon rings, which are arguably the best quick loading method with certain reservations. Cartridges should have a roll crimp (not swaged crimp) so they don't catch on the rim of the chamber. Secondly the bullets should have a smooth ogive, not stepped like a Keith style SWC. The same reservations hold true for conventional (e.g., HKS) quick loaders.

Since it uses rimless, 9 mm cartridges, the 986 must be used with moon clips. The cartridges head space on the lip of the cartridge, so the 986 can be fired without moon clips, but ejection must be done with a tool of some sort (pencil). The 686 PC can be used with or without moon clips. I find it easier to carry quick loading strips than spare moon clips for concealed carry.

I have other PC revolvers, which benefit from excellent factory tuning. The DA trigger pulls are under 10#, compared to about 13# for a standard model, and the 686 is no exception. SA is light, at about 3-1/2# with a fixed (roll pin) trigger stop to reduce overtravel to less than 1/16". As important as weight, the DA trigger pull is very smooth, with a clean break.

The 986, with a titanium cylinder, and 686 tip the scales at about 35 oz, which is heavy enough to handle the recoil with ease, yet not too heavy to carry in a proper holster. My 686 fits nicely in a Sparks VM2 (IWB) designed for a 3" barrel. The 986 would be best worn OWB.

Both revolvers have slab-sided barrels and a tapered full-length lug. This lightens the front end significantly for more agile handling, and make for easy holstering.

 

[TAROMAN]

Couple more thoughts on the 986.
Agree, it's a pure competition gun. Use mine for Steel Challenge. Specially developed handloads.
NEVER shoot cheap Russian steel case ammo in a titanium cylinder.
Be VERY careful cleaning that cylinder so as to not damage the coating. I use M-Pro7 and nylon toothbrushes only. No brass brushes. Avoid solvents like Hoppes. Their new Elite is supposedly OK.
The moonclip thickness/brass matching is mainly an issue with revolver cases (38, 357) anything goes with pistol cases (9mm, 40, 45)

 

[Revolver_guy]

After reading the great comments made here, I'm now leaning toward the 686 because there doesn't seem to be any real good advantages of the 986 over the 686 due to the finicky issues that go along with the 986 such as having to get the right thickness of moon clips that work best with one ammo which doesn't allow you to just buy whats on sale. Also Add to that the fact that you have to be VERY careful not to damage the titanium cylinder's coating. But also keep in mind the 686 pro comes cut for moon clips. Does that have any effect on it when not using the clips after installing lighter springs such as causing light primer strikes.

Someone brought up "with a titanium cylinder that restricts bullet weight." and "NEVER shoot cheap Russian steel case ammo in a titanium cylinder." Why is that?

Any ideas on why S&W has not done a great job getting consistent results from it's 9mm revolvers?

I'm also open to considering the 686 ssr. I have handled the 4" ssr (and it feels pretty balanced) but not the 5" pro because I can't find a shop near me that has one. So Im wondering is it going to be noticeably more nose heavy or about the same? Im a bit concerned that the ssr might have some noticeable muzzle rise due to not having as much nose weight compared to the 5" pro. Is there going to be any noticeable advantages one over the other?

 

[TAROMAN]

Cheap Russian ammo has some sort of coating that can bond with the protective coating on a titanium cylinder.
There was a thread here recently where someone shot that cheap **** in a new ($$$) 929 then wrecked the gun trying to pound the stuck cases out of the cylinder.

 

[bigwheelzip]

Does that have any effect on it when not using the clips ....

No difference at all when loading loose ammo. The cartridge rests on the cylinder rim.

Since your talking about using mostly .38SP, the recoil from any 4-5 inch 686 should feel very light.
Even a 158gr magnum load is quite comfortable from my 4" 686+.

 

[Revolver_guy]

Thanks. I just wasn't sure if when they cut the cylinder for moon clips if it effected the Headspace when not using the clips.

 

[sw282]

Looked at the 986 and a 686 Competitor. Chose the 686 over the 986
because l don't want to deal with the hassle of the moon clips

With your hand problems l think you might have trouble loading
and unloading the clips.. l have a one armed friend ad shoots a
revolver quite well. He cant fire an auto without help