686 Problem

[m4bgringo]

I bought another used 686 for PPC competition, 8 3/8" barrel. I was having some trouble with getting the cylinder open. I thought it was the ammo. Even an empty cylinder seems to stick. It doesn't matter clean or dirty, still sticks.

I have another 686, it will swing open with no problem. Same goes for all my other S&W revolvers.

What should I be looking-at on this one?

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Extractor rod nut loose????

 

[scooter123]

First check to see that the ejector rod is tight. When they shoot loose they can unscrew and cause problems such as this.

Second, put on some reading glasses or grab a magnifying glass. Then open the cylinder to a point where it's just shy of latching closed. Now take a good close look at the end of the ejector rod. What you will see is the center pin is pushed forward and it should normally extend past the outer tube of the ejector rod just slightly, say around 0.005 to 0.010 inch. If you see that it's slightly recessed you need to stone the end of the ejector rod down a touch. If you use a wet stone and dab up the metal fines frequently with a paper towel you can do this with the revolver compeletely assembled. Once you have it looking good in that almost latched position try it for function. Sometimes the bolt that pushes the center pin forward won't push it quite as far forward as the recoil shield. If that is the case you'll need to do a bit more dusting on the end of the ejector rod.

 

[JOJO00]

I've noticed the same problem with mine from time to time, I'll have to check this out. Thanks guys

 

[TAC]

This can also happen if the cylinder release bolt is too short. Open the cylinder, and look at the back plate on the frame, just under the firing pin hole. The bolt pin should be flush with that hole. If it's short of that, then the bolt needs to be replaced. I had this condition on a brand new S&W 29. I sent the entire gun to S&W and they replaced it, and returned it in two weeks, no charge.

 

[BillyWayne]

Try backing out the sideplate screw that holds the yoke on and see if that helps. I once got a good deal on a used Smith because this was an issue. I took the screw out and filed it down a bit.

 

[powderburns]

Try backing out the sideplate screw that holds the yoke on and see if that helps. I once got a good deal on a used Smith because this was an issue. I took the screw out and filed it down a bit.

That's the fix that did it for me..
Also, if someone removed the side plate then reassembled it mixing up the screws, that will create the problem (different screw lenghths)

 

[m4bgringo]

Thanks guys. Spent some time comparing my two 686's to each other. Seems the one that gets stuck somewhat is just a little more finicky than the other. I looked at the pin that pushes the ejector rod out, the finicky gun seems to be recessed a bit more than the other one. Thanks for that suggestion TAC.

I also understand a little bit more about these guns. I see what scooter123 is talking about. There is a piece that goes through the ejector rod assembly that needs to get pushed all the way through so the front end of that ejector rod gets unlocked (for lack of a better term).

By the way, the ejector rod itself is tight.

I found that I just need to press firmly on the cylinder release. Very firmly, then it releases just fine.

I also noticed that this 686 has a much more obvious line from the rear spring-loaded pin on the ejector rod than the other 686 I have. Springs seem to have the same tension, so maybe this gun just got used a lot more before I bought it than the other one did.

Anyway, it does open, just not as quickly as it should. I have seen some people replace the cylinder release with a different type that protrudes outwards and gives your thumb a nice ledge to press against so it (your thumb) doesn't slide-off as easily.

Anyone know who makes them? Seems like it is a simple swap, just one screw holds it in place.

 

[H Richard]

Replacing the thumb latch to a different style won't have any affect, as the bolt that is a little short in internal and the thumb latch attache's to it. There is possibly some crud build up that is keeping the bolt from going flush. This can only be addressed by a complete disassembly, as it would be one of the last things you take out, it is behind the hammer. If you do, be aware the very small spring may fly out if you aren't careful.

 

[JOJO00]

Try backing out the sideplate screw that holds the yoke on and see if that helps. I once got a good deal on a used Smith because this was an issue. I took the screw out and filed it down a bit.

Thanks Billy I did just that and problem solved, I bought the revolver second hand so I'm guessing it was monkied with before I had it.

 

[Gunhacker]

If all you need is for the bolt to move forward a slight amount to unlock, you can do this:

Remove the thumb piece (latch), and on the underside of it you will see an oblong shaped extension that fits onto the slot on the frame to limit it's travel.

File the front edge (the shorter side from the hole) of it down slightly to shorten its length, and reshape it back to it's original rounded shape.

This will allow the latch to move a bit more forward in the frame slot and extend that bolt forward enough to allow it to unlock.

Even though the pic below is an after market latch, it shows the piece I'm talking about.

This might be a case of an over sized thumb piece needing adjustment than a too short release bolt.