686 snubbie vs. GP100 3"...

[vipermd]

For me not a question---686 I would not have looked at GP-100 if it was half the price. I do not like the way it feels. Both are good solid guns and either would provide a lifetime of service with minimal care. Now if it was a speed six 2.75" it would not still be there for you to look at!!!. Your good both ways. Be Safe,

 

[S&W1006]

The 7-shots may limit speedloader choices but the ones available are the best in the world. I see you mentioned them. Worth every penny.

The aluminum L7s work in both 686 and GP100.

I know the 5 stars are awesome just pricey. I saw the 8 shot ones at a match a lady was using with her R8. I am still going to buy a couple of 5 star speedloaders for my 7 shot but I an still having it cut for moonclips because I will be using mine for competition.

 

[murphydog]

"You're all choosing wrong. What you want is a 2.75" Speed Six, with bobbed hammer, tritium front sight, and other general cool stuff."

"Just my two cents here but since you are looking for a 2 1/2" revolver that usually means a "self defense / CCW" is desired. If in fact you intend that purpose for your gun, I would think about getting a smaller framed gun like a M60, M66, M65, etc."

No disrespect intended, but finding anything modern off the "not unsafe roster", or having a CCW permit in CA, is a challenge.

 

[jdh]

Thanks for your reply. 3" blue is the GP100 from a private seller on Calguns, off-rooster. In Ca. only 4" and 6" GP made the list.

This throws poo in the game.

 

[kaaskop49]

I don't know where all the inferior GP100 DA triggers are coming from. I can tell you where they're not going - to me. My Wiley Clapp model has a fine DA trigger. I handled a standard 3" GP100 in my LGS last week and the DA was even better on this one. Of course, I only shoot MOPP (Minute-of-Pie-Plate) at 3 to 7 yards, full power mags, double taps. Perhaps in a more target use, the 686 would be better. My 686 SSR is also a great MOPP gun.

Now let me stick my neck way, way out: my Ruger Super Redhawk Alaskan has a magnificent DA trigger that is better than the Clapp. I call 'em like I sees 'em. By the way, I'm still a J-hound.

To the OP: buy both guns, try to get a stainless GP100 so it matches the 686.

 

[lowercase]

I'm probably the odd man out, but I like fixed sight guns (my only L-Frame is a 681), and I love the GP100s with 3-inch barrels. In fact, I own two of them.

If you get one with a good trigger, or have some trigger work done on one, they are superb.

Here's one of my GPs. It has had a trigger job and wears aftermarket stocks.

 

[Omil]

I don't know where all the inferior GP100 DA triggers are coming from. I can tell you where they're not going - to me. My Wiley Clapp model has a fine DA trigger. I handled a standard 3" GP100 in my LGS last week and the DA was even better on this one. Of course, I only shoot MOPP (Minute-of-Pie-Plate) at 3 to 7 yards, full power mags, double taps. Perhaps in a more target use, the 686 would be better. My 686 SSR is also a great MOPP gun.

Now let me stick my neck way, way out: my Ruger Super Redhawk Alaskan has a magnificent DA trigger that is better than the Clapp. I call 'em like I sees 'em. By the way, I'm still a J-hound.

To the OP: buy both guns, try to get a stainless GP100 so it matches the 686.

Thanks for your helpful info. I'd be very happy with both, but that's not an option.

 

[pvq]

I also prefer fixed sight guns. While the 686 is a fine weapon, I think the GP100 is hands down more rugged. And while it is unlikely that the average shooter will wear out a 686, I think the Ruger is a much better choice in a "SHTF-No-Access-to-gunsmithing-services" scenario. I would choose the GP100

 

[shawn mccarver]

My vote goes to "none of the above." Wait for a 3 inch S&W.

As between the two, I prefer the 3 inch, thus would pick the Ruger.

Someone mentioned a "Wiley Clapp" GP100. I cannot possibly imagine how a Novak sight on a revolver, which requires cutting away a substantial part of the top strap, is a good idea. But, it had to have something different, otherwise the "Wiley" model would be the same as the one already in the catalog, and that's no fun.

Better the "Wiley" model be a 4 inch with a light lug (I hate the term "half-lug"). And no hacked-up top strap.

 

[Dave T]

Agree with Shawn above. I never understood the logic of shortening the ejector stroke on a defensive revolver for 1/2" shorter barrel. Don't own anything shorter than 3" and probably won't given my age and stubbornness (smile).

And if you can't find a 3" 686 or if you want fixed sights, you can always have a good smith build one for you.



Or find one of the out of production PC guns on the used market, like this 681.



Good luck in your search and with your final decision.

Dave

 

[Arik]

Im a SP101 fan. Not crazy about the GP. Has nothing to do with the gun, just me. So I say 686

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

 

[jtcarm]

That's a no-brainer: In the medium-frame DA world, S&W wins every time with me.

I've never owned any small frames of either brand but I probably wouldn't care as much since both use coil mainsprings.

I like the ergonomics of the GP, but until Ruger starts making them with a leaf mainspring that doesn't stack like a coil, S&W will get my vote every time. The extra round is also a plus, and speed loaders are a non-issue, there is no shortage of them for the 686+.

There's a reason ICORE is dominated by S&Ws.

 

[aurora40]

My two cents, I'd go with the GP due to the barrel. A 7-shot 2.5" doesn't sound overly practical. Though the extra round and stainless finish would be more appealing to me. An IL would be less appealing, if it has one.

The GP100 is a fine gun. It doesn't really inspire desire to look at, at least not for me. But it's a great piece. Mine's a great shooter, they are smooth to use with a good trigger, and they are incredibly simple to take apart.

 

[wildenout]

I would counsel for the Smith, I went Sp101 over the Gp, and personally I think the GP is...well, ugly.

 

[ladder13]

I'm probably the odd man out, but I like fixed sight guns (my only L-Frame is a 681), and I love the GP100s with 3-inch barrels. In fact, I own two of them.

If you get one with a good trigger, or have some trigger work done on one, they are superb.

Here's one of my GPs. It has had a trigger job and wears aftermarket stocks.

Those have to be the nicest looking grips I've ever seen on a GP100. Usually they look awful.

 

[HiCap]

If you are buying new I would definitely go with a Wiley Capp Ruger GP-100 and I prefer SS. The sights are very nice on these.

I would go with the Wiley. I obtained an old style grip for the pg 100 3" and replaced the larger one that the Wiley came with. It looks as good as it shoots, and has broken in nicely.

HiCap

 

[g17]

I like my Rugers but if it were a 686-4 or earlier, the 686 is what I would buy. For current production, GP100 all the way. With that said, if future resale is a consideration, the 686 will most likely fetch a better return down the road.

 

[MikeyB]

I have a Lou Horton 2.5" 686 and a Wiley Clapp GP 100. While the 686 wins in the looks department the GP feels much more rugged and willing to take a beating.

 

[Harrison]

The Smith has a lock, that alone would be a deal breaker. The Ruger is rugged, accurate, does not have a lock and is probably less expensive. In this case I would take the Ruger. I have owned both.

 

[Murphy's Law]

I have a 686 3" Talo with a power custom s&w trigger kit. Pull is right at 3.5 on single action. Talk about smooth as silk is an under statement.