686 spitting at my face

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686-5, I bought it used a few years ago. Super smooth trigger, very light SA pull, probably the handiwork of a previous owner.

.38 special shoots fine, but .357 spits particles into my face in single action. Not in DA for some reason. Last time it did that, I was shooting .357 semi jacketed hollow points and FMJ .38 so both were jacketed.

I don't own a range rod, but a plain aluminum rod shows there might be a very tiny amount of misalignment when the cylinder is locked. The cylinder locks with a normal amount of tightness, BC gap looks tight (I don't have feeler gauges either). I don't see any evidence of a bent crane or other major part flaws.

Do any of these lockwork parts look excessively worn?
 

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A little dirty, but not worn. What is being spit back, carbon buildup? Metal? If it is dust-like the gun probably just needs cleaned. If metal flakes are coming back at you its likely a forcing cone issue.
 
I had a no dash do that back in the 80s. It planted a large chunk of jacket material under the skin of my forehead. I couldn't trade it off fast enough. I wish now I would have kept it and fixed the issue, but at the time I was so mad that all I could think about was getting rid of it. It was my first Smith, and unfortunately the last one for the next 20 years or so. I often wonder how many Smiths passed me by through those years.
 
I know it's a bother, but you probably need to send it in so S&W can fix the problem.

Sounds like a nice pre-lock and worth the trouble.
 
Depending on the powder and load, not that uncommon with .357's. I remember an article in Shooting Times many years ago where the author was bench testing different .357 revolvers and loads. He wore one of those plastic face shields for his testing. :)

The forcing cone advice may help.
 
A little dirty, but not worn. What is being spit back, carbon buildup? Metal? If it is dust-like the gun probably just needs cleaned. If metal flakes are coming back at you its likely a forcing cone issue.
It must have been metallic, as it caused a tiny amount of paid on impact with my skin and I wiped off a dark piece of something. I wish I'd preserved it.

I guess I could contact S&W and see if they can put it right. It's not a huge issue, but it's my only revolver that does this so I know it's fixable.
 
686-5, I bought it used a few years ago. Super smooth trigger, very light SA pull, probably the handiwork of a previous owner.

.38 special shoots fine, but .357 spits particles into my face in single action. Not in DA for some reason. Last time it did that, I was shooting .357 semi jacketed hollow points and FMJ .38 so both were jacketed.

I don't own a range rod, but a plain aluminum rod shows there might be a very tiny amount of misalignment when the cylinder is locked. The cylinder locks with a normal amount of tightness, BC gap looks tight (I don't have feeler gauges either). I don't see any evidence of a bent crane or other major part flaws.

Do any of these lockwork parts look excessively worn?
This thread might be somewhat helpful:

Model 617 no longer spitting at me.
 
You'd need an alignment tool to check the yoke alignment. If it's off enough to be seen with the naked eyeball, it'd be severe. Re-cutting the forcing cone can require walking a very fine line. I'd suggest use of an 11 degree reamer. The depth of the cone is likely to change without much change in diameter. Getting excessively enthusiastic can weaken the barrel shank/tenon.
 
I would load your gun with empty brass and then slowly cock it in single action while holding slight pressure on the side of the cylinder. See if the cylinder stop locks it in place before the hammer is cocked. You can also do the same in double action and see if the cylinder locks up before the hammer falls. This will give you a good indicator if it is in carry up or not. Brownells has range rods and they are a good investment or maybe you can find a local gunsmith who will check it for you. The other thing would be to use a feeler gauge to check for excessive barrel cylinder gap that might be causing the spitting.
 
There's a thread on forum right now about people cowboying their revolvers by snapping their wrists and flipping the cylinders closed. Many seem to think it's harmless and much ado about nothing; I was taught by several old time gun cranks that built match guns that such behavior helps contribute to such problems as spitting lead from the small misalignment it can cause.
The OP in that thread had a friend he thought should have known better slam the cylinder shut on his revolver and he was, as I would be, not happy about it.

Those who take the attitude "they're just tools, don't baby them, that doesn't hurt them" are welcome to throw their 'tools' in a tackle box, under the truck seat or however they wish to store them, flip the cylinders closed on their revolvers and dry fire their rim fire guns . . . but when handling my collection that I worked long and hard for I will require they be treated with more care.

Back to the point here, that's why there are such appurtenances as range rods and match rods - to gauge the misalignment of the crane and cylinder that results in lead spitting. Usually 'pre-owned guns' purchased from folks who say treating them that way won't hurt them . . . .
 
It must have been metallic, as it caused a tiny amount of paid on impact with my skin and I wiped off a dark piece of something. I wish I'd preserved it.

I guess I could contact S&W and see if they can put it right. It's not a huge issue, but it's my only revolver that does this so I know it's fixable.

By the sound of it, this was not just dust, probably a flake from the jacket as that can peel back with forcing cone issues. 686 is a fantastic gun, especially pre-lock. Send it back and explain the issue with the forcing cone. I am glad you are safe, and definitely do not shoot it until it is addressed. Even if they fix it, wear face protection first time shooting it again just to make sure.

Update: Seeing some people say someone slammed cylinder shut, that could cause misalignment with forcing cone, which now that has been mentioned seems more likely the cause than the forcing cone in and of itself. Either way take it to an experienced gunsmith to have it fixed, and never slam the cylinder shut or let friends disrespect your gun. I had a friend do that once with mine and had a few choice words for them, then never let them touch my gun again.
 
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While slamming the cylinder shut shouldn't be done, since the cylinder is supported at both ends when it comes rest, it isn't as harmful as slamming the cylinder open. In that case, the mass of the cylinder is acting on the unsupported yoke barrel/tube.

I suppose it's happened, but I can't recall ever seeing a yoke misaligned inboard of the cylinder pin hole in the breech face.
 
686-5, I bought it used a few years ago. Super smooth trigger, very light SA pull, probably the handiwork of a previous owner.

.38 special shoots fine, but .357 spits particles into my face in single action. Not in DA for some reason. Last time it did that, I was shooting .357 semi jacketed hollow points and FMJ .38 so both were jacketed.

I don't own a range rod, but a plain aluminum rod shows there might be a very tiny amount of misalignment when the cylinder is locked. The cylinder locks with a normal amount of tightness, BC gap looks tight (I don't have feeler gauges either). I don't see any evidence of a bent crane or other major part flaws.

Do any of these lockwork parts look excessively worn?
What kind of ammo? I’ve had plated hand-loads spit particles (metal and powder) at me, but never jacketed rounds. It usually happens at an indoor range and the particles are bouncing off of the walls on eac side of the booth.
 
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