929 parts missing

[MWC2068]

A friend bought a 929 online from someone back east that had been "worked" on by some one, lightened trigger pull, bob hammer. The weapon seems ok and he's shot it a bit maybe 600 rounds, and wanted me to show him what parts inside should be smoothed to make the trigger pull a bit better. I removed the grip and the side plate and found the hammer block was NOT there. I think that this would be a safety problem. So I have two questions should I get an other one and install it and will any hammer block for a frame mounted firing pin N frame work?

 

[tennexplorer]

Yes. In fact the hammer block from a later pre-lock gun should work also.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Hammer blocks are frame specific. However, any N frame hammer block will fit any N frame, whether frame or hammer mounted firing pin. Many times people who do "action jobs" will leave those out because they can get a better action without it. I keep them in all my guns, as I feel it's an important safety mechanism. The key is to work them over just as you do the other parts so it doesn't add any roughness or hesitation to the cycling of the action.

To do this, you have to look at the key points that this part can cause a problem.
They are - 1 at the top of the flag where the part rises up past the notch on the hammer, just under the firing pin,

2 the sharp edges around the bottom where it was blanked out in the punch press die, and

3 the hole that the rebound slide pin rides in.

To address these issues -
1 Radius the top of the flag and the bottom corner of the hammer and the corner of the frame where the flag may momentarily catch as it returns upward. The new F/P in frame frames are already radiused there.

2 Round or chamfer the sharp edges of the perimeter of the bottom to eliminate any drag points.

3 The inside of the hole is rough because the punch press operation leaves a ragged surface, the same as around the outside. Use a needle file to smooth up the inside of the hole so it will be smoothly and evenly activated up and down by the rebound slide pin.

 

[Wee Hooker]

Disappointing that someone would remove that part in the pursuit of a better trigger. More disappointing that they wouldn't tell a buyer that they had disabled a safety feature.
Personally, I'd be suspect of the rest of the work done too.

 

[Big Cholla]

To echo 'Wee Hooker', IMHO, that handgun needs a complete checkout by an experienced armorer with all the 'tools'. ........ I hate hearing about the unsuspecting finding a S&W revolver that they bought in good faith to have been made that dangerous by a "bubbsmith"..........

Toolguy's post gives what I think is the most complete and clearly written explanation of what is necessary for a complete work over of the the hammer block. The only thing I do differently is to use a very fine abrasive polisher in my Foredom Tool to polish out the inside of the 'pin hole'. Easy to do and takes only a minute. .....

 

[H Richard]

I had my 432 PD open a couple days ago to replace the plastic hammer spring rod swivel with a metal one, and noticed there is no hammer block safety, and no pin on the rebound spring slide for it to anchor on. I presume this is because since it is hammerless, there is no need for one? I know I must have had other hammerless guns apart but I don't recall ever noticing the absence of a hammer block. Are other hammerless models without a hammer block?

 

[Wee Hooker]

I had my 432 PD open a couple days ago to replace the plastic hammer spring rod swivel with a metal one, and noticed there is no hammer block safety, and no pin on the rebound spring slide for it to anchor on. I presume this is because since it is hammerless, there is no need for one? I know I must have had other hammerless guns apart but I don't recall ever noticing the absence of a hammer block. Are other hammerless models without a hammer block?

I'm not an expert in this area but can say that my 442-2 doesn't have one. My guess is all the internal hammer models don't. When you think about it, it makes sense. The bar is there to prevent something from hitting the hammer and accidentally hitting the firing pin unless the trigger is back. On a internal hammer model, that can't happen.

 

[MWC2068]

Thank you for all of the replies, I don't know who did the work, it was bought on gunbroker from somewhere in NJ, but I will order a new one from brownells and install it, I just wasn't sure if an after market one for an N frame would work or not or if I had to get one from smith.