A FEW HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS ABOUT CLEANING S&W REVOLVERS

[chief38]

I've been cleaning guns for 56 years now and specifically S&W Revolvers for 46 year. I am not a licensed GS just an aficionado and hobbyist that has found what works the best! So I am just speaking of my life's experience and not any particular course I have taken.

Hint #1) When cleaning a S&W Revolver I always remove the Cylinder. It only takes a few seconds to unscrew the tiny little screw securing it and with the Cylinder removed from the Frame it is a whole lot easier to clean without causing damage. It also allows for easier access to the Revolver's frame to remove Lead and Carbon deposits. It prevents the Ejector Rod from getting bent or grabbing onto something while in the cleaning process.

Hint #2) With the Cylinder removed, I use Remoil Spray to fill up the Ejector Rod hole in the Cylinder, CAREFULLY work the unsupported ER a few times and then dump out the fluid onto a white paper towel. You will notice the powder residue and debris that comes out! I repeat this a couple of time until the Remoil comes out clean and free of debris. This also keeps operation of the ER smooth and Remoil evaporates very quickly - so there will not be a mess or gunk build up in the hole. This need not be done every single cleaning, but every second or third one is fine (depending on how much you shoot at each session of course). PS: This will NOT loosen up a properly tightened ER by itself!

Hint #3) I always remove the grips when cleaning because I like to keep them from coming in contact with chemicals, getting banged and chipped up, and so I can clean underneath them. This takes only a few seconds and the Grip Frame can them be cleaned off, the inside of the grips can be wiped down to get any oil or debris off, and again, it keeps the grips in better shape IMHO.

These are just three simple things I do every single time I clean a Revolver and they have worked very well for me over the years. Skill level to do this is very basic and I doubt there is anyone here who would have a problem. That said, anyone feeling uncomfortable with this - need not attempt it. I am just trying to pass along helpful hints that have helped me personally.

UPDATED COMMENT: POST # 18

Regards,
Chief38

 

[Targets Guy]

Thanks Chief.

 

[dave1918a2]

Same thing I do. Only for 48 years tho.

 

[stansdds]

Good advice, but I would go further and say to use a hollow ground screwdriver of the correct size to remove the screws. I've seen lots of used revolvers with screw heads displaying mild, moderate, and even severe damage due to the use of the wrong screwdriver.

 

[Sevens]

I love your item #1 a lot. I have a frothing, seething, white-hot -HATE- for your item #2.

I have been cleaning and working on guns for about 25 years less than you have, but the amount of crusted and congealed Rem-Oil crud I have cleaned out of revolvers has been more than anyone should have to deal with.

RemOil is horrendous stuff. I posted pictures a few months ago of what RemOil did to my brother's S&W 317 Airlite. We sent a .38 through his bottle of RemOil at the range that day.

RemOil, in all it's glory:


And after diligently cleaning out the congealed, lacquered RemOil:


I would never recommend RemOil for anything (although it was fun to put a bullet through a bottle of that ****.) But I would VEHEMENTLY recommend against spraying, squirting or dripping it in to any crevice where it cannot be wiped off easily.

It gets sluggish in cold temperatures, it gets gooey after months, it gets hard like a varnish after years.

It's awful.

 

[armorer951]

RemOil, AKA: mineral spirits (paint thinner) and naphtha, (liquid petroleum distillate) is nasty stuff, not only for your guns, but for you as well. (wear gloves and eye protection)

From an armorer's perspective, RemOil is just barely one notch below WD-40, which is the absolute worst stuff to use on firearms, and just about anything else.

 

[glenwolde]

Pretty much what I've been doing, except I don't use Remoil. I blow out the ejector rod area in between applications of oil.

Removing grips is especially important on nickel guns. Sometimes solvent will get trapped by the grips and discolor the finish.

I use .375 rifle brush on chambers. I also like to wrap a rag through the frame opening and around the hammer to protect the firing pin bushing from getting rammed by the tip of the brush when cleaning the barrel.

I use mostly synthetic non-toxic cleaning and lubricating products by a company called gunwerkz.

 

[Peak53]

It also helps to run a quick brush through the barrel and charge holes, and wipe everything down with a cloth while still at the range and the gun is warm. Makes regular cleaning back on the bench easier.

 

[ISCS Yoda]

I'm a lot less fussy about gun cleaning and I guess I've been doing it for 50 years. Take off the stocks, blow Gunscrubber or Breakfree through it, wipe it down with an oily rag, put a drop of oil here and there, swab the bore, done and done. Same with pistols except I might field strip them but it's unlikely. Done and done. This presumes I even clean them at all after a range session but that's a whole nuthuh smoke. I can clean them when I'm sitting at home doing nothing and in the mood.

It jus' beez dat weigh..........

A friend told me decades ago that I should clean my guns in February but, if I don't, there's always next February......

 

[pharman]

related question please

OK so what solvent is best to use to clean cylinder and bore of a nickel revolver...I use Hoppes #9 to clean my blue revolvers and am in process of buying a nickel revolver and have been told NOT to use Hoppes #9 as it can stain the nickel so what should I buy to clean the nickle revolver cylinder and bore that won't harm the nickle finish if some of it inadverdently gets on it? Comments appreciated...Thanks...Roger

 

[armorer951]

You can use Hoppe's solvent if you want to. Just follow the manufacturer's recommendations on the container to the letter. And, be sure to wipe the solvent off of the nickel surfaces of the gun after cleaning. Hoppe's solvent, or any other solvent, should not remain on the finish (or on your hands) after cleaning has been completed.

S&W's cleaning warning concerns using what they call "harsh chemicals", which would include ammonia compounds.

According to the company's MSDS report, current production Hoppe's #9 solvent contains: kerosene, ethanol, propan-2-ol, amyl acetate, 2-methylbutyl acetate, and, last but not least, methanol.

In my experience, a very good "plant based" or bio-based cleaner and crud cutter is the "Triple Action Oil Solution" from Iosso Products. As an alternative for those who don't want to use petroleum based solutions......the Iosso cleaner contains no petroleum distillates or ammonia, and is biodegradable....like us. No offensive odor. No gloves required.

 

[kraynky]

I've had good success with Balistol, though many do not like it or it's odor. I happen to not be offended by the smell, although I do prefer Hoppes 9 (from my first Cleaning Kit on Christmas 1970). Frog Lube solvent works okay but CLP seems to work faster.

It's a matter of trial-and-error, and your sensory glands.

 

[Sevens]

Frog Lube is another product on my NEVER IN MY LIFETIME list. That stuff acts like rubber cement when it's left to time.

 

[chief38]

The reason I suggest Remoil is because it is very thin, cleans the powder residue and debris out relatively well and evaporates quickly. That's all I use Remoil for on Revolvers - Breakfree CLP for most other lubrication and protection. I have never had any issues with the Remoil, never had any crud build up and never found a reason not to use it for said purpose. I would personally NOT use a thicker oil in the ER hole. I don't like having anything in there that is "wet" or it will actually attract more debris. Blowing out the hole with dry compressed air removes most of it anyway.

PS: When cleaning guns I always wear Nitrile Gloves and wear protective glasses - always did.

 

[Marshal Tom]

I have used a number of different cleaners over the years but for the last few years I have been using Gunzilla BC-10 almost exclusively. It is really good stuff. Very little odor, cleans very well, protects and lubs. Try it out.

 

[kbm6893]

When I do take the cylinder out(not every time), I blast down the hole where the ejector rod is with non chlorinated brake cleaner. Follow with compressed air and then a drop of oil on the rod, then work it back and forth a few times.

I use a .40 cal brush on a cleaning rod chucked into a low speed drill for the cylinder holes. Gets them spotless.

Always take the grips off. Cant even imagine leaving them on. Aside from so,bent getting on the grips, you can't get to the dirt underneath them. And the solvent that seeps under them makes a mess. It would be like painting without removing the outlet covers.

 

[stu1ritter]

I have a bit of time in cleaning guns (started shooting in 1957) and haven't found anything better than Ed's Red for cleaning purposes and Kano Labs Microil for lubrication. Microil is 100% highly refined mineral oil and is suitable for clocks (non-gumming) and also seems to suspend dirt very well and keep on functioning.

Stu

 

[chief38]

I think the focus of my original Hint has gotten a bit blurred. I was not and am not recommending that Remoil be used as a general purpose product on guns. I was simply suggesting that it be used solely inside the Ejector Rod Hole. Again, the reason for this is strictly because it does do a descent job on cleaning and removing the crud and debris. The main thing is that it is very thin and evaporates almost instantly - especially when hit with some clean dry compressed air. That is all. I only use Remoil in certain circumstances and this happens to be one of them as I do not want to use a thick oil that will stay put inside the hole. That would be a disaster for debris and dirt accumulation.

All I can say is that i've been doing this for as long as I've been cleaning revolvers and I've never had a problem. I used to use a product called Rig #2 Oil but Birchwood Casey discontinued the product a while ago. It was the same consistency as Remoil but far far superior. Hence the switch to Remoil as it is about the only gun oil I know of that is so thin in consistency.

 

[Luvmine]

Thanks Chief. Good stuff. None of which I do. I'll now make them part of my normal cleaning routine.

 

[Luvmine]

Good thing I checked first. I do have some. I kept it in my range bag. Thanks again Chief.