A FEW HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS ABOUT CLEANING S&W REVOLVERS

I've had good success with Balistol, though many do not like it or it's odor. I happen to not be offended by the smell, although I do prefer Hoppes 9 (from my first Cleaning Kit on Christmas 1970). Frog Lube solvent works okay but CLP seems to work faster.

It's a matter of trial-and-error, and your sensory glands.[/QUOTE

In my ignorance, I asked Hickok45 about using WD40 for cleaning and lubrication, he politely discouraged using it for that purpose. He is a big fan of Ballistol which I now use a lot. I like the smell. First thing I do when I buy a used gun is soak it down with Ballistol.
 
I do not use Rem oil. I suspect it works well for folks that regularly clean their guns as it would not have time to deteriorate. That is why some folks swear by it while others swear at it. My guess, both are right.
I'm a dinosaur. Hoppes 9 to start and CLP to finish. I shoot mainly lead in revolvers. Bronze wool for the stubborn leading if needed. I never spray anything into the action. On S&W's, I remove the crane/cylinder after several shooting sessions. I never saturate any mechanical weapon with oil or cleaner unless it's a surface area that I can completely clean and dry. Same goes for semi autos. I'm not saying any of this is right or wrong. It's just what I do.
 
Brake cleaner and tiny drops of Mobile 1. If the gun has many rounds on it off comes the side plate and out comes the hammer and trigger.

I don't care what oil you use it will collect dust and fine powder debris and hold onto it. If it has been years since a gun has been deep cleaned it needs it no mater what oil you have in it unless stored in optimum conditions with an oil that is extremely stable. Ya my early guns all functioned. But a good cleaning sure didn't hurt anything
 
I been cleaning for 60yrs at least. S&Ws for 47yrs. I've always removed cylinders from all revolvers to clean, same with grips. I don't take side plate off very often unless there is reason. I'm against sprays on any gun.
WD type products are for lazy people. Sprays dissolve some dirt and it drains into actions then solidifies in nooks and crannies. They also leave residue and films. I clean with Hoppes #9. Use brushes, swabs and pipe cleaners until they come out clean. Then I dry patch and wipe, and apply light 10wt non detergent oil to them. I must be doing something right my 1st S&W was a K22 in 1964. It has had thousands through it and drug all over the country in leather holster and still tight and accurate.
 
Cleaning guns UGH not my favorite subject. Working as an armorer and competing in a sport for 30+ years where you shoot 7 guns means a lot of gun cleaning. Now days I really don't mind so much. Slap a movie on and relax in the shop, especially if its raining or cold out makes a big difference.

If its a gun you shoot/clean semi regularly, no big deal. Guns that don't see the light of day for a while or never get shot, no CLP or anything that lacquers up. I have seen hammers move so slow I could take a sip of coffee watching.

Just don't overclean your gun. Have also seen a lot of damage from guys over overcleaning barrels and cylinders. Replace worn brushes. Makes everything easier.

"When I drink whisky, I drink whisky. When I drink water, I drink water." Any product that claims it does everything, probably doesn't do them that well. Cleaners to clean, lubricants to lube.
I use Hoppes, Ballistol, G-96, and others for general cleaning. Hoppes only for barrels and cylinders. I think it does a better job or maybe I just like the smell... Then lubricate with oil, Militec-1 usually or Mobil -1/ 0-20. If I'm serious I will warm the parts after and reapply. For the guns I am shooting. Occasionally for some parts on certain guns some TW25B grease. Usually only when I'm gonna do a lot of shooting or in a really warm climate. Grease should not be left too long, it becomes full of grit if the gun is used, or dries out if left in storage.
 
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I like most all of the suggestions but what concerns me is the frequent removal of the grips and cylinder. Even being extra, extra careful I would think the wear would eventually show on the screw heads, and I can't say I have never had a little slip of the screw driver. I guess if you mentally say "this gun is my shooter" you won't fret about an occasional boo-boo. At some point (and its getting closer) I'm going to be selling everything and I want them to look as nice as possible. No so much about getting max money but it just seems like the nicer the gun the easier it will be to sell.
 
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