A little Renaissance Wax

Best of the best. The British Museum in London uses this on antiquities...<read> priceless pieces of world heritage. I only put it on guns I am not planning to use often or display pieces like my Great-great grand-dads shot gun he got as a gift from the people of the town he moved to.

I commented on this forum almost 10 years ago roughly that one of the most distinguished collectors in my area--owning rifles and shotguns previously owned by European nobility--shocked my when he said that all he uses is Hoppe's #9. I asked him for clarification one day and he said, to paraphrase, Hoppe's on guns he may shoot, Renaissance for long-term. Your dollar, you decide.

I have used mostly Hoppe's #9 to clean and protect the metal and wood on my guns for over 40 years. Works better on wood than you might think. I don't use it on varnished sealed wood, only on breathable oil finished wood.
I got some Renaissance Wax a year ago but have not tried it yet. Maybe I will this weekend.
 
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As mentioned, Ren Wax is great for wood and leather! Personally, I apply with a finger and buff out with a microfiber cloth 5 minutes later. Addicting.

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That holster snap strap doesn't look very secure, like it would not take much of a push to cause it to slip off of the trigger guard.
 
Not quite a gallon ...

... I should have ordered a gallon. [emoji28]
… Amazon has a 3 liter bucket for $219.95. That should last a few years …
[ame="https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Wax-Liter-Polish-Micro-crystalline/dp/B007CKFDL2/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2TSFVC0UFUSBU&keywords=rennaisance+wax+polish&qid=1579138018&sprefix=rennaisan%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-6"]Amazon.com: Renaissance Wax 3 Liter Polish Micro-crystalline: Home & Kitchen[/ame]
 
Believe me that a little goes a loooonnng way....Also if you are not shooting your guns or a gun, get a pair or two of thick cotton gloves to handle your prizes when showing to a friend. The oil and acid in your fingerprints is also very bad for your collection and will show rust spots.

To this day, I can see hand prints on the wood roof boards in my cabin in Maine built in 1964. Where the workers held the boards now shows up and actual fingerprints and hand prints can be seen as black marks against the now honey colored boards.
 
So, il must be removed before applying wax?

The problem with oil is that it attracts and holds dust. The dust attracts and holds moisture and that causes rust. That's why many older guns have speckle rust spots.

Wax seals the metal from any moisture and why we use it on our metal automobiles. It is also recommended by museum curators for their very valuable antique firearm collections.

All my firearms are lightly oiled. To use this wax, does the oil have to be removed?
 
I've used Ren wax on my vintage cardboard boxes for several years now. Most of them only need 1 application as they just sit in my safe. Not only does it make the boxes look so much better, it helps them to glide smoothly by each other when going in and out of the safe. By the way, Johnson's Paste Wax works well on cardboard too and its cheap. A word of caution, only lightly apply the wax to the surface of the cardboard. Rubbing it in with force will very quickly get into the color of the cardboard. Go easy!
 
Just an FYI. I got turned on to Ren Wax when I was getting my photography degree. It prevented fingerprints on my glossy prints, and it all but completely sealed prints from the atmospheric sulphur that could eventually react to residual silver in the prints oxidizing them into a silvery-brown.

Really cool stuff. I use it on my Civil War family heirlooms. I figure it is my responsibility to care for them until they get passed on to the RIGHT person. Since I have no children, I will arrange for them to go to my dad's cousin's family.
 
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