? A question ?

GhostMutt

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Hello Forum,

I have had this question on my mind for sometime now and would like to ask you guys who are much more experienced with firearms of all calibres than I.

Regarding lightstrikes.

My question is 15-22 specific. Does the extractor play ANY part in the issue of lightstrikes? I am trying to work out the dynamics of the action of the extractor gripping the casing and if it could have any determining factor on the lightstrike issue.

I have a Hiperfire 24C in my 15-22 and the hammer hits hard enough to break a finger, yet the other day the first time since i have installed it, i had a failure to fire* (edited). The case had a good 'dent' from the firing pin but the round did not go. I put it straight back in and bang....one more perforated tin can :) and a hundred more rounds went with no issue.

I am aware that the primer layer in the .22lr round is not always around the entire rim...(at our club we have had rounds which have not gone at all as they contained no primer).

I am aware that broken firing pins can cause the same effect.

I am aware that different springs can cause the same effect.

I am aware that walking pins can cause the same effect.

I am aware that a dirt on the chamber/bolt can cause the same effect.

What i would like to know is if there is any connection between the action of the extractor and its contribution to lightstrikes or are the two not linked in any way?

Thanks
:cool:
 
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In a round about way it could;

If the channel where the extractor rests when the bolt is forward / in battery is full of crud, then there is a possibility that the bolt could be held slightly out of battery. When the hammer hits the firing pin it will push the bolt fully home. This could steal some of the energy from the firing pin causing a light strike.

Not a likely scenario, but it could happen.

The more likely cause described would be a fouled chamber.
 
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With 22 rim fires , especially semi-automatics , every now and then you will get a round that doesn't fire . If everything is clean (around extractor, bolt recess etc. ) then there's not much you can do about it.
Failures to fire happen with 22 ammo .
22 ammo is notoriously dirty and leaves build up of grunge around the chamber, bolt area...sometimes a bit hinders the strike , next hit and it fires...just the nature of rimfire ammo.
Gary
 
In a round about way it could;

If the channel where the extractor rests when the bolt is forward / in battery is full of crud, then there is a possibility that the bolt could be held slightly out of battery. When the hammer hits the firing pin it will push the bolt fully home. This could steal some of the energy from the firing pin causing a light strike.

Not a likely scenario, but it could happen.

The more likely cause described would be a fouled chamber.

This is certainly a *possibility*, however, even in this case, I would think that the round would fire out of battery (before the bolt fully closed).

Since the round fired when inserted a second time, AND it had a decent indent in it from the first strike, I would say that it was a primer issue and NOT an issue with any part of the firearm.
 
I think one of the best things you can do is swap out the stock hammer spring for an extra power version. You can go with a lighter trigger spring but a lighter hammer spring is a mistake. If you're buying an aftermarket trigger group make sure it has a hammer fall AT LEAST as heavy as stock. Rimfires actually need more hammer fall than centerfires.
 
Its not always how hard the firing pin hits the case, its also where it hits. I did some experiments with one of my 22s and changed the firing pin hit location and shape on the case. After my third try I was able to find a sweet spot where it made the gun much more reliable. A photo of the case would help the conversation but I am sure it was just bad primer.
 
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Its not always how hard the firing pin hits the case, its also where it hits. I did some experiments with one of my 22s and changed the firing pin hit location and shape on the case. After my third try I was able to find a sweet spot where it made the gun much more reliable. A photo of the case would help the conversation but I am sure it was just bad primer.

The Russians did the same thing to the .22 cal. rifles they used in the Olympics. They found the sweet spot for ignition and it improved accuracy.
It varied from rifle to rifle.
 
Its not always how hard the firing pin hits the case, its also where it hits. I did some experiments with one of my 22s and changed the firing pin hit location and shape on the case. After my third try I was able to find a sweet spot where it made the gun much more reliable. A photo of the case would help the conversation but I am sure it was just bad primer.

By that do you mean that you rotated the firing pin in the channel to change the angle the pin hits the rim....can that be done on the 15-22 firing pin? I have never removed mine.
 
By that do you mean that you rotated the firing pin in the channel to change the angle the pin hits the rim....can that be done on the 15-22 firing pin? I have never removed mine.

No; the firing pin has a slot that a roll pin slides into. This roll pin forces the orientation of the strike. It also keeps the firing pin from falling out.
 
I had a firing pin that was round. I flattened it out and positioned it at the very edge of the rim. Width and length of the edge made a difference as well as the position on the case. This was in a Glock conversion kit. The damn thing would only fire half of the rounds and jamb every third round. Did several mods, ejector, extractor, mag, and firing pin. End result is this conversion kit will fire every 22 I have put through it every time, well maybe 99% would be more accurate.
 

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