A warning to those that use "brake-clean" to clean your guns.

Hearsedriver

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This is a warning to those of you that use automotive brake cleaner to clean your guns. In a bone-head move, I forgot to remove the wood grips from my 17-3 when I was cleaning it with brake-clean and it took the finish off of my grips. By the time I noticed what was happening, it had removed about 50% of the original finish off of both grips. Needless to say, I was sick about it. I love using break cleaner because it is a great solvent for gun powder, its cheap, and will continue to use it but, I'll make sure the grips are removed : )

However, If you find yourself in this situation, I have found the perfect finish that matches the original to a "T" in both looks and feel. I removed the remaining finish on both grips with lacquer thinner and a nylon brush. Next, I found a product that is avialible at Walmart in a 11.5 oz. spray can made by Minwax called Helmsman Spar Urethane. It comes in flat, semi-gloss, and high gloss. I used the semi gloss. After spraying 2 light coats on the grips and allowing 24 hours to dry, I taped off the checkering on the grips so that the finish would'nt build up, removing the crispness and sharpness of the checkering. I then sprayed 4 more light coats at 24 hour intervals on each grip. Finally, I removed the blue painters tape and sprayed one final finish coat on the entire grip. After they dried for 3 days, I rubbed them out using Mequires Liquid Polish followed by thier pure Carnuba Wax and they turned out great. I doubt that anyone would know the difference between them now and before I removed the original finish. I made no attempt to "fill" the grain of the walnut with the finish. Too much finish and sanding between coats will defeat the purpose of trying to duplicate the original finish. This minwax finish is very durable and is resistant to sunlight, rain & moisture, and temperature changes and should last for many years. One can should do several sets of grips. So, bottom line, there is no need to panic if disaster strikes. Just be patient and follow the instructions on the can. Its easy and the results will surprise you.
 
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Brake cleaner will also attack some plastics like 3rd gen grips if left on them. I always blow it off quickly with compressed air. I don't use it on polymer frames much either. Good stuff but you should test it on different materials before using it all over a gun.
 
Brake cleaner will also attack some plastics like 3rd gen grips if left on them. I always blow it off quickly with compressed air. I don't use it on polymer frames much either. Good stuff but you should test it on different materials before using it all over a gun.

I urge everyone to use cleaners outside or with good ventilation.It will attack some brain cells as well.
 
As A Master Auto Mechanic I can tell that not all Brake Cleaner is the same formulation, Some (Non Chlorinated) is Flamable,Other Is Non Flamible,I strongly prefer CRC Brand Red Can Part # 05089,However I don't have too much experience using it on guns other than cleaning a few small parts when they were removed from the gun.
 
I only use brake cleaner on a patch to degrease the chambers.
The rest I leave with regular gun cleaning juice on it before an oil rag rub.
We have a basement bathroom with a fan. That's where the OL makes me clean guns.
The reloading bench is right outside.

...Nemo...
 
I only use the USGI Rifle Bore Cleaner when i clean all my guns that are blued. In the rifle bores only. Using moly to lube inside the frames and receivers its a quick wipeout and relube with moly.

I'm not sure what to use on my new S&W nickel finishes yet?

Bill
 
I only use the USGI Rifle Bore Cleaner when i clean all my guns that are blued. In the rifle bores only. Using moly to lube inside the frames and receivers its a quick wipeout and relube with moly.

I'm not sure what to use on my new S&W nickel finishes yet?

Bill

Bill-

Use some Flitz POLISH on the nickel finish, followed by Flitz Wax, Or REN WAX. I use my finger with the POLISH and just wipe it on lightly and do same with the wax. Buff off with a soft cloth.
Don't use anything AMMONIA based on the Nickel guns...
Careful even with the Hoppes when cleaning the bore, etc.
CLP is good.

EDIT: I also just found this: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/138669-nickel-finnish-hoppes-9-a.html
 
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whats wrong with good old fashion hoppes bore and gun cleaner ,u should not use brake clean in ur house thats crazy.if you cant clean with hoppes something is not right.starting fluid carb clean brake clean throttle body cleaner, kerosene,gasoline are for car parts u could probobly use alot of stuff i wouldn't advise that . lube my gun with 93 octane joking
 
You must remember to re oil the gun after using brake cleaner. It removes all of the oil from the pours of the steel and can cause the gun to rust internally. (Even stainless steel.) This requires you to disassemble the gun to get at the internal parts and defeats the purpose of using the aerosol cleaner in the first place. I've seen a few police guns ruined by using gun scrubber type cleaners and then not properly lubing the gun. My advise is to stay away from this stuff all together. It's a lazy mans cleaner and ends up being more work than regular CLP or Hoppe's on a rag in the end.
 
Also worth noting. In the same way that it will destroy lacquer finishes on wood stocks, and damage synthetic polymers, it will also quickly remove the finishes on many alloy and steel guns. If the finish was a baked-on (essentially paint) type, the brake cleaner will strip it, fast.

There is a well-know thread on a Beretta forum with exactly that happening on a modern Inox (stainless) Beretta 92FS. The frames on those Inox models are anodized aluminum, but they are then also finished with a rather suspect silver-ish paint. One guy used brake cleaner on the frame, and it bubbled-up all the silver paint.
 
D'oh!
I use brake cleaner on cylinders and inside barrels. But never anywhere that it can contact wood or rubber. It does not seem to have an effect on blueing or plastic sight inserts.
 
Has anyone used electrical contact cleaner from a spray can to clean a semi-automatic handgun? Thanks for your time.
 
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The only brake clean we use at work is Wurth and it is about the best we found. I will use it on some guns but the rest just get a big dose of Ballistol.
 
Usage

I have been using carb cleaner on Glocks Gens 2&3 with no problems.
Course I also go after them with toothbrush and dish soap in hot water as well. There is no way a wipe down and Hopps is going to get all the crud out from a regular monthly training session...at least for me. It takes a soak and a good scrubbing for me to get them clean.
But...as others have stated there is differences in brands and chemical make up.
Carb Cleaner vs Brake cleaner: besides chemical power, as I understand them, carb cleaner can have an additive in it that can leave residue, brake cleaner is designed to dry and strip and not leave residue.

*I now use extreme caution though and actually, put on safety glasses, Once I had a small little splash get in my eye, It burned so bad, I thought I may have actually got a Chem burn, it did scare me!
 
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