This is a good time and place to advocate a simple way to prevent your new blued S&W revolver from acquiring a turn line. I started doing this over 40 years ago. First, if the revolver has been handled much, even in the store, then it is already too late. That makes it more likely to be useful on special ordered revolvers than revolvers that were displayed in a store.
Remove the cylinder stop and dull its sharp top edges. Technically only dulling the edge the cylinder turns toward might work. Think in terms of removing only molecules, not a significant amount of steel. I use my old Case hard Arkansas knife sharpening stone. It is so fine it feels like a piece of glass.
A few years ago a gentleman was showing his Model 1955 .45 ACP to a lady that he'd arranged to meet at the local range. He'd advertised it for $1,000 on the bulletin board. She handed it to me to evaluate. It had no trace of a turn line so I told her it hadn't been fired much. He stood there silent until I handed it back then told here he'd fired 5,000 to 6,000 rounds through it in bullseye competition and had the score sheets to prove it. I had not felt the edges of its cylinder stop. He'd dulled them.
By the way, while a couple of conspicuously modified Model 1955s changed owners at the range for $800 that month the gentleman could not find a buyer for his excellent original condition Model 1955 for $1000. One of the ones that sold was Armaloy plated except for its replacement blued barrel and the other was very holster worn and obviously had been shot extensively. By the prevailing collector logic on this forum they were junkers but the buyers had seen their prior owners do well in matches with them and that's what mattered to them.
