Acetone/ATF-resistant container recommendations

Nesmith

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Good morning! I have a 45 ACP Model 1950 Army that could use a spa treatment in a mixture of acetone and ATF. While I have read many references to using freezer containers for this (as well as Hondo's PVC pipe method, carried in the back of a pick-up), I am looking for specific recommendations on container material that are known to withstand acetone, such as HDPE, PET, PP or other material. Maybe there are specific brands that folks have used safely. I'd prefer not to experiment with a mixture of acetone and ATF in my shop. I have used metal paint cans for soaking parts in mineral spirits, but prefer to have a more form-fitting container for soaking an entire revolver. I'm looking forward to any recommendations you may have. Thanks, everyone!
 
I'll go backwards to a metal container and say that a 50cal ammo box (and sometimes the smaller 30cal size is plenty large enough) make excellent soaking containers for gun parts, and entire handguns.

Nothing to make up or modify. They're strong, relatively cheap.
There it is,, complete with a lid that locks down and seals.
Even a handle on it!
 
I have used thick plastic tupperware types, the thick types that come with form fitted lids in diff sizes. They good for quite awhile and usually get discarded when they get too grimy to use.
Havent had any problems, I dont use with real
flammable stuff as a matter of course..
I dont know brands to suggest I just use thicker types
or the hard thicker clear plastic kind and hadnt any
degradation I,ve seen so far
.
 
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I haven't done a gun yet that doesn't fit inside a 1 gallon paint can so that's what I use for my acetone/ATF cleaner.

.50 cal ammo can is a good idea as it has a flat bottom, would keep parts more tidy while soaking, would fit a larger firearm, and also would allow parts to be sloshed a bit to sluice out grime.
 
You need something that will keep the acetone from evaporating,
while not messing up the finish.

If you can find a glass Mason type jar, big enough to fit into,
that would do the job. Old pickle jar, maybe? I've used small
jelly jars with ATF-acetone, and they'll hold the acetone for
weeks...

Just don't get too crazy with the sloshing!
 
I use a mason jar with a lid for small parts and cylinders or a Tupperware sandwich container for frames,slides and barrels. Use a sealed container or the acetone will evaporate in no time.
 
ATF doesn't require anything special but with added acetone (highly evaporative-like lacquer thinner), glass or metal.
I use glass pickle jar (screw on lid) for lacquer thinner to soak revolver grips to remove applied finish. I sand them and apply the finish I like.
I use cooking pots with lid, found cheaply at yard/rummage sales/salvage stores, for soaking larger stuff (automotive parts) in lacquer thinner. The good fitting lids prevent a too quickly evaporation.
 
I've used the milky white Zep spray bottles sold in Home Depot and so far - so good. Just in case I store the sprayer in a metal coffee can just incase. I also use a 50 ml. small glass bottle with a glass stopper (old pharmacy bottle) and that will never get damaged from the chemical - just from me dropping it - LOL!

You could also save an old metal can from the Acetone. Obviously it was meant to hold it without damage.
 
Don't make my mistake. I soak my high alloy knife blades in a mixture of acetone and dry ice after hardening them. It helps convert retained austentite to martensite by taking the steel to -100f.

I bought a nice looking steel bucket to do this in. I store the acetone in a couple steel cans it came in once the CO from the dry ice is finally gone. But, the super cold acetone started leaking right out the bucket seams. Possibly from the cold shrinking stuff. LOL glad I was outside
 
I use rubbermaid with no issues. I don't store used acetone in it but have soaked stuff for days in it with no ill effects at all. I am more interested in what gloves to use. The set I used made for washing dishes started to wrinkle and get funny on me.
 
Acetone is a Universal Organic Solvent which is highly flammable. Non-organic containers are the best choice (i.e. metal or glass).
 
I just have to ask due to lack of my experience. What is the purpose of immersing a firearm in acetone or ATF? Cleaning? Stripping the finish? Or something else? Thanks!
 
An acetone/ATF mixture is regarded as a good penetrant/lubricant, but for cleaning purposes I use acetone alone, usually in a sealed glass container to limit evaporation. Acetone has a very low flash point. Actually, I prefer MEK, which is less volatile and works as well as acetone (to which it is chemically very similar). Usually available at Home Depot, etc. I have used MEK as a de-greasing wipedown prior to hot bluing, it works very well.
 
Here is a chart to indicate what plastic is resistant to acetone.
That said I also do not see what the purpose of soaking a gun in the combo is gonna do for you?? Seems like a waste of time, but everyone has there secret snake oils:D
What is the intended result that can not be achieves by just spraying it with brake kleen or penetrating oil??


Chemical Resistance Chart | Plastics International
 
I just have to ask due to lack of my experience. What is the purpose of immersing a firearm in acetone or ATF? Cleaning? Stripping the finish? Or something else? Thanks!

Primarily for severe rusting and parts rusted together. It will not strip finish. But it's very inexpensive compared to gun cleaners.

Solution for rust removal and freeing rusted parts

As shown below, the scientific test proven top solution is not an off the shelf rust or corrosion product, and in fact exceeds them all. And off the shelf products are far from equally effective. Kano Kroil tops them all in testing and some are just a flat waste of money.
Just a few representative tested products quoted in test results including the hands down winner: 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Cruddy guns are a piece of cake to clean with this solution.

Average load (Lbs) to release a rusted/corroded test bolt and price per fluid ounce:

W/O penetrant.................516 pounds … $0.00
WD-40.............................238 pounds … $0.25
PBBlaster ....................... 214 pounds … $0.35
LiquidWrench ..................127 pounds … $0.21
KanoKroil ........................106 pounds*… $0.75
ATF-Acetone 50/50 mix.....53 pounds**.. $0.10


* I’m not aware of KanoKroil removing bluing but may remove patina.
**Note: 53 lbs. was the load required to release the pre-corroded testing device. Recognize the ATF will not remove bluing.

SOURCE: April/May 2007 edition of MACHINIST'S WORKSHOP scientific test of penetrating products to remove rust and measure the force required to loosen rusted-solid test devices. 2007 edition of MACHINIST'S WORKSHOP - Google Search

They are all inferior to (well down the list in test results as can be seen below), and more expensive than ATF, good old tranny fluid. None of the other products have or will ever have the years and level of research and engineering to remove crud and/or rust, keep spotless, and sustain the life of a $4000+ and higher, piece of high tech equipment; your automatic transmission! It's also the least expensive product.

So if you have two parts cruddy or corroded together solid and want them apart, the only thing better than ATF, again as test proven, is a 50/50 solution of ATF and acetone. Nothing approaches its efficacy and performance, nothing. Just soak and agitate, period!
 
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I have a collection of stainless pans from restaurant equipment. The type they use for buffets to keep food hot. Most will easily submerge a revolver with a 6" barrel. Cheap too, they were given to me.
 
Primarily for severe rusting and parts rusted together. It will not strip finish. But it's very inexpensive compared to gun cleaners.

Solution for rust removal and freeing rusted parts

As shown below, the scientific test proven top solution is not an off the shelf rust or corrosion product, and in fact exceeds them all. And off the shelf products are far from equally effective. Kano Kroil tops them all in testing and some are just a flat waste of money.
Just a few representative tested products quoted in test results including the hands down winner: 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Cruddy guns are a piece of cake to clean with this solution.

Average load (Lbs) to release a rusted/corroded test bolt and price per fluid ounce:

W/O penetrant.................516 pounds … $0.00
WD-40.............................238 pounds … $0.25
PBBlaster ....................... 214 pounds … $0.35
LiquidWrench ..................127 pounds … $0.21
KanoKroil ........................106 pounds*… $0.75
ATF-Acetone 50/50 mix.....53 pounds**.. $0.10


* I’m not aware of KanoKroil removing bluing but may remove patina.
**Note: 53 lbs. was the load required to release the pre-corroded testing device. Recognize the ATF will not remove bluing.

SOURCE: April/May 2007 edition of MACHINIST'S WORKSHOP scientific test of penetrating products to remove rust and measure the force required to loosen rusted-solid test devices. 2007 edition of MACHINIST'S WORKSHOP - Google Search

They are all inferior to (well down the list in test results as can be seen below), and more expensive than ATF, good old tranny fluid. None of the other products have or will ever have the years and level of research and engineering to remove crud and/or rust, keep spotless, and sustain the life of a $4000+ and higher, piece of high tech equipment; your automatic transmission! It's also the least expensive product.

So if you have two parts cruddy or corroded together solid and want them apart, the only thing better than ATF, again as test proven, is a 50/50 solution of ATF and acetone. Nothing approaches its efficacy and performance, nothing. Just soak and agitate, period!




Gee where are all the Kroil Kool Aid drinkers?. and the Eds Red crowd? The test cited above is just one test with no relation to firearms. It has internet voodoo for a long time. much like the best gun cleaner.


The OP never said what the issue was anyway.??
 
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