Action job on my 686

[Toblerra]

So last night I went ahead and did an action job on my 686. Click the link below for the video tutorial I referred to.

I decided to do this after my unsuccessful attempt to lighten the trigger pull with a reduced power main spring and getting continual light primer strikes. Ultimately I came to the conclusion that this is definitely the better way to go.

All I can say is, wow what a difference! The trigger pull is much smoother and noticeably lighter, even with the factory main spring. The whole process took me about 2 1/2 hours. I did some additional polishing to what is mentioned in the video and smoothed out the inside of the frame, the rebound spring body, the main spring and its contact surfaces, the sides of the hammer and trigger body, the hammer block, and just about every other surface that makes contact with moving parts. I kept the 14# rebound spring in it and used very fine 1000 grit sandpaper/sharkskin on a level glass surface since I don't have any India stones.

It worked great, polishing without removing any material. I now feel very well aquainted with my revolver and have a much nicer trigger pull because of it.

Of course the pull weight is not as light as it was with the reduced power mainspring but it is buttery smooth and that is even better than the "light" pull I was looking for.

Here's the link for those of you who want that smooth trigger pull without sacrificing reliability with the lighter main spring:

[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HJ6Hb89lVXw[/ame]

 

[Wee Hooker]

Congrats on your "new" revolver and new found understanding of what makes it tick.
FWIW, I now do all my range gun (K/L/N frame) action jobs with a 12# trigger return and factory main spring. Seems to give me the right mix of a great trigger and 100% reliability.

 

[Toblerra]

I'll keep that in mind, have to order a 12# rebound spring at some point and try it out.

 

[iPac]

Congrats on your "new" revolver and new found understanding of what makes it tick.
FWIW, I now do all my range gun (K/L/N frame) action jobs with a 12# trigger return and factory main spring. Seems to give me the right mix of a great trigger and 100% reliability.

I did the same thing. Use a 12# rebound spring, coupled with shortening the mainspring tension screw and a little polishing to all. You got yourself a mighty fine trigger pull.

Went with the 12# because the 11# wasn't strong enough to rebound. The rebound spring has more to do with your DA trigger pull than the mainspring. If you desire a lighter DA pull, the rebound spring is what needs attention.

 

[Toblerra]

Ordered a 12# rebound spring from Wolff today

 

[BLUEDOT37]

The rebound spring has more to do with your DA trigger pull than the mainspring. If you desire a lighter DA pull, the rebound spring is what needs attention.

You got this backwards. The rebound springs affect the SA pull the most. The mainspring affects the DA pull the most.

(The mainspring is already fully tensioned, when cocked in the SA mode, & the rebound spring is offering the main resistence to the trigger pull. DA mode has to overcome both the rebound spring AND the mainspring to fully cycle it.)

I recently changed the factory rebound spring in my 625-8PC to a Wolff 14#, & polished the rebound slide, only. The SA pull changed from 4.0# to 2.5#.

.

 

[Toblerra]

You got this backwards. The rebound springs affect the SA pull the most. The mainspring affects the DA pull the most.

(The mainspring is already fully tensioned, when cocked in the SA mode, & the rebound spring is offering the main resistence to the trigger pull. DA mode has to overcome both the rebound spring AND the mainspring to fully cycle it.)

I recently changed the factory rebound spring in my 625-8PC to a Wolff 14#, & polished the rebound slide, only. The SA pull changed from 4.0# to 2.5#.

.

You're right but a lighter rebound spring will aid in a "smoother" double action trigger pull which may feel lighter since there is less tension on the trigger body. The only way to significantly lighten the double action is to go with a lighter main spring which I tried and led to way too many light primer strikes even with an extended firing pin and strain screw.

I ordered the 12# and will swap it out with the #13 I have in it now. I'll let you know what the difference is. I'd be willing to bet it hardly touches the double action pull weight but I think it will feel smoother especially toward the final stage of the trigger pull.

The trade off though is that the trigger return will be more sluggish and take longer to reset.

 

[joe44va]

I had trigger return issues outside once in very cold weather with the 12 pound spring. Switched to a 13# spring and synthetic gun oil and it's OK. I should try the 12# spring with the synthetic oil some day but there isn't much difference between the two relative to group size. This all after a factory Master Revolver Action Package. Has anyone tried dry lube in a revolver's action?

 

[Stopsign32v]

What is the part number for the Wolff 12lb?

Never mind 16641

 

[Toblerra]

That's interesting about the cold weather. Good thing I live in So Cal.

 

[H Richard]

It is interesting you mention the cold weather. The type of oil you use can make a difference when it gets below freezing. S&W revolvers were made to work with minimal lubricant, but use a light oil. Back in the 80's when action shoting was just getting really big, a local gunsmith used STP (that super slick oil you added to the crakkcase of your car) on the sear engagements of the 1911. One of our local shooters thought it was so fabulous, he lubed everything inside his 1911 with STP, came a winter match and the temp was in the 30's he couldn't get his hammer to drop it got so stiff. Hunters hunting in very cold area's often remove all lube from their guns for a hunt.

 

[UncleEd]

A good number of people don't like Rem Oil but I think it's an ideal lubricant for a Smith revolver. A few drops into the hammer area and maybe a drop into the rebound spring housing is all that's needed.

Those few drops into the hammer area spread out all over the innards and the working parts.

 

[Rpg]

I'd have to be a much braver man than I am to attempt trigger work with u tube as my backup.

I know my gunsmith will check anything I do, and diagnose and fix my screw ups.

They are more frequent than I generally recognize.

I leave trigger work to the professionals: someone who's done hundreds.

If you knew your cardiac surgeon was doing his first triple bypass on you, would you let him?

 

[Toblerra]

I'd have to be a much braver man than I am to attempt trigger work with u tube as my backup.

I know my gunsmith will check anything I do, and diagnose and fix my screw ups.

They are more frequent than I generally recognize.

I leave trigger work to the professionals: someone who's done hundreds.

If you knew your cardiac surgeon was doing his first triple bypass on you, would you let him?

The way I see it all the parts are replaceable. If it were a collector smith I wouldn't touch it but since it's new I figured what the heck. I've done quite a bit of gunsmithing on 1911's, My AR and several other firearms so im comfortable with a you tube video, but I have screwed up pretty bad in the past too lol. That's how you learn.

 

[joe44va]

I'm sorry, I can be a bit obtuse at times. I brought up the issue I had with cold weather and a 12# trigger return spring to illustrate that this is on the edge of failure. If you are facing bowling pins or steel plates this is one thing. If you're facing a rabid coon, a moccasin, or (heaven forbid) a momma bear, I'm thinking you might want more reliability.

 

[Rpg]

The way I see it all the parts are replaceable. If it were a collector smith I wouldn't touch it but since it's new I figured what the heck. I've done quite a bit of gunsmithing on 1911's, My AR and several other firearms so im comfortable with a you tube video, but I have screwed up pretty bad in the past too lol. That's how you learn.

If it's strictly a range gun, this is fine.

If it's ever used for sd or HD, not so much.

 

[Toblerra]

If it's strictly a range gun, this is fine.

If it's ever used for sd or HD, not so much.

Agreed, bone stock is better in that case.

 

[Toblerra]

Just got my 12# rebound spring from Wolff today and was surprised when I went to change it out. The 12# spring was longer, had thicker coils and felt heavier when installed than the 13#! It was noticeable longer by the way by like an 3/16 of an inch. I'm thinking they sent me the wrong spring... Anyone else compared the two and noticed this big of a difference?

 

[Mehutch]

I did the Wilson Spring kit, main spring and the #13 return spring. Simple to do. Now it pulls like my older Smiths, smooth and crisp.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

Just got my 12# rebound spring from Wolff today and was surprised when I went to change it out. The 12# spring was longer, had thicker coils and felt heavier when installed than the 13#! It was noticeable longer by the way by like an 3/16 of an inch. I'm thinking they sent me the wrong spring... Anyone else compared the two and noticed this big of a difference?

I bought the Wolff (5) spring rebound pack new a bit ago. You're correct. The Wolff 12# is 1.435" long & the 13# is 1.100" long. 15# & 16# are virtually the same length at the 12#. I have the 14# installed in my 625PC.

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