Action job on my 686

Thanks bluedot guess that means it is the correct spring, I'll try it again and see if I notice a difference in double action pull weight. It seemed to feel heavier to me than the 13#.

I am tempted to try the Wilson combat spring kit but I've already been through that with the Wolff kit as you can read in my previous posts and it just turned into a frustrating experience with light primer strikes. I really want to believe that won't happen with the Wilson kit but every time I've replaced that main spring it equals light strikes.
 
If you are trying to tune the double action pull on an L-frame revolver, then you likely want to make adjustments to the mainspring tension.

If the reduced power mainspring is giving light strikes, then you probably need a longer strain screw. You can also shorten the strain screw with a standard mainspring, but due to the geometry of the spring bend, using a reduced power mainspring with a longer screw usually works better.

There have been many threads discussing this issue, including this one which is currently active:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/485839-best-way-raise-mainspring-tension.html

Good luck with tuning your revolver.
 
I did the wolfe kit in my 986 and got light primer strikes, too. The fix for _that_ was a Cylinder and Slide extended firing pin. And, it was a fix.

People will warn you off the extended firing pin on the grounds they are prone to breakage. I have not noticed this myself, but since I use the 986 as a target and range gun it's not a huge thing if it turns out to be true.

After all was said and done, I prefer the way the gun works with the standard rebound (14#). YMMV.
 
You got this backwards. The rebound springs affect the SA pull the most. The mainspring affects the DA pull the most.

(The mainspring is already fully tensioned, when cocked in the SA mode, & the rebound spring is offering the main resistence to the trigger pull. DA mode has to overcome both the rebound spring AND the mainspring to fully cycle it.)

I recently changed the factory rebound spring in my 625-8PC to a Wolff 14#, & polished the rebound slide, only. The SA pull changed from 4.0# to 2.5#.

.
I am curious of what you think of your 2.5# single action trigger pull?
Good? Too light? What do you think?
 
I'm impressed with your gunsmithing abilities. I must say I was fortunate after installing the appropriate Wolf Spring Kit for my 686+. Everything like "butter" afterwards.
 
I did the action on my 617 and was using an 11 pound rebound spring until the last match I went to. I had a few times where I out ran the trigger, ending up skipping a cylinder or two during the match.

I replaced the springs with Power Custom's spring kit. I now have a 12 pound rebound spring and the action is working perfectly.

The hammer is an Apex Tactical Mass Drive Hammer. It helps reduce the trigger pull more.

It now has a 2.6 pound single action. I never shoot single action though, this gun is set up for Steel Challenge competitions. The Double Action is set at 8 pounds. It's a little heavier than what Apex guarantees but I want it to shoot all the brands of ammo I have. It can shoot Federal HV Gold with a 6.5 pound trigger.

I think the OP did an excellent job on his action work. I know how hard it can be.

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I am curious of what you think of your 2.5# single action trigger pull?
Good? Too light? What do you think?

In revolvers intended for range/target/plinking it's what I prefer & strive for.

Smoothness & lack of creep are maybe more important.

It really spoils you when you pick up one of your other guns that hasn't been worked on.

Any revolver I carry for self-defense will have factory springs with polished internals though.

.
 
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I know that I'd probably be a better shooter if modifications were made on some of my revolvers, but I'm more comfortable shooting a gun in its original configuration and adapting to its shooting characteristics. Some don't really need it anyway, especially like my models of 1950 and 1955, both 45acp and 65+ years old.
 
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