Action stiffens and Locks Up on Model 19-3

e3mrk

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I have a Smith and Wesson Model 19-3 and the other day I noticed that the action has got to the point I cant pull the hammer back or rotate the cylinder and is very hard to open it.
Anyone have any ideas on what the problem could be? Do I need to send it to the Factory for a refurbishment?
 
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You'll need to check the obvious first...is the extractor rod loose?

Could be excessive headspace/end shake on the cylinder causing contact between the front of the cylinder and the barrel extension.

If you remove the cylinder from the revolver and dry fire the action while holding back the thumbpiece, does the action cycle and behave "normally"? If it does, then you may have no gauge (space) at the front of the cylinder, which should measure around .004". There may also be evidence of contact on the cylinder face.

The rear gauge, or "headspace" required is .012 .018".

If contact between the barrel and the front of the cylinder is confirmed as the issue, you can purchase end shake shims to move the cylinder back into proper position.





Carter
 
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Could be excessive headspace/end shake on the cylinder causing contact between the front of the cylinder and the barrel extension.

If you remove the cylinder from the revolver and dry fire the action while holding back the thumbpiece, does the action cycle and behave "normally"? If it does, then you may have no gauge (space) at the front of the cylinder, which should measure around .004". There may also be evidence of contact on the cylinder face.

The rear gauge, or "headspace" required is .012 .018".

If contact between the barrel and the front of the cylinder is confirmed as the issue, you can purchase end shake shims to move the cylinder back into proper position.



Carter

Thanks for the reply,Ill try that.
 
Before you try anything else simply clean the damned gun! Especially the cylinder and yoke. Powder fouling builds up between the cylinder center hole and the yoke axis and can make the gun very stiff! Worry about checking the other things after you do this!

NOTE: Because the Model 19-3 may have the revised gas ring this is particularly the problem often. The gas ring may be either in the cylinder or on the yoke itself on a Model 19-3! Guns with the gas ring on the yoke are particularly susceptible to powder fouling in the cylinder center hole being a problem!
 
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Sure, you could have a loose (ER) ejector rod, but one very overlooked & neglected cleaning job is inside the cylinder's tunnel. It greatly helps to disassemble them and clean them properly from time to time. Even if the ER is just loose, I like to disassemble and clean them anyway - a perfect time to do so.

You will need to remove the cylinder from the frame (one screw), use a drill press, a ER tool from Brownells, a Jacobs chuck or similar to securely grip the ejector rod past the knurled tip so it doesn't get bunged up. I find the best is by chucking up the ER in a drill press chuck. (note: pull power cord from outlet first so there is no accidental starting of the motor). Tighten the chuck firmly so the ER will not slip or spin and get marked up, but not "gorilla tight" so you cause damage either. Then use three empty fired cases (every other charge hole) in the cylinder to secure the star wheel locator pins from breaking and turn the cylinder while holding the drill press chuck. The direction to loosen depends on the age of the revolver. I believe pre 1957 is clockwise, then counter clockwise after that date. They are also marked to distinguish them by a groove in the ER just after the knurling. Remove rod, springs and clean all parts including inside the tunnel with Hoppes 9 and a tooth brush. Blow out all solvent with an air gun, lightly lubricate and wipe off excess oil. You do not want it dripping wet which will gunk it up by attracting debris and unburned powder residue. Resemble in reverse order and again, use 3 empties in the cylinder. This sounds more complicated than it is and should not be a big deal.

Tighten the ER firmly and it will stay put. Do not over tighten it! There is absolutely no need to use a threat locker either if properly tightened!

BTW, I just posted a "tightening" thread you might want to read first. Worse case scenario if the ER loosens up on its own, that means you did not have it tight enough. Go a bit tighter next time, but again, don't over tighten it.

I usually do this on my cylinders once a year or as needed - but I do shoot lots of reloaded lead bullets through my revolvers - probably more than most here.

NOTE: This disassembly procedure can also be used to straighten out a bent ER. Straightening one out is not that difficult. I have never had to replace one - I just straighten them out if needed.
 
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Before you try anything else simply clean the damned gun! Especially the cylinder and yoke. Powder fouling builds up between the cylinder center hole and the yoke axis and can make the gun very stiff! Worry about checking the other things after you do this!

NOTE: Because the Model 19-3 may have the revised gas ring this is particularly the problem often. The gas ring may be either in the cylinder or on the yoke itself on a Model 19-3! Guns with the gas ring on the yoke are particularly susceptible to powder fouling in the cylinder center hole being a problem!

I have completely disassembled it and thoroughly cleaned and oiled it so I don't think it has anything to do with carbon or dirt.
 
All good advice above. Also, open the cylinder, extend the extractor, and clean really well on the bottom of the extractor and it's seat in the cylinder with an old toothbrush and solvent.

Toothbrushes are “overrated!!
I use acid brushes, trimmed with a razor knife at various dimensions.

Often when tinkering around with Old S&Ws I find myself “fantasizing about being the,, “First guy to actually,,, pull the cylinder OFF the yoke.
I added this 3 digit, early (pinned front sight) Model 1903 S&W Long to my box of unwanted toys. The pictures are my first attempt at photographing ?,,, what I do.
The condition of the exterior of this pistol is? poor. However the cylinder has the worse finish.

NO ABRASIVE,, just the bristles of an acid brush on these parts.
Solvent,, acetone
 

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