Advice on purchase of a 617 dash-?

[tesoro]

I want one real bad to mount a Triji rmr + low profile adapter plate. I will only own the pre-lawyer versions. Fit m finish n trigger is paramount. The list below is what I have found and would appreciate the input. It dosent matter about 6 vs 10 shot cylinders to me but I want cylinders that will eject hi-vel cci mini mag type ammo without sticking. Price is not an issue as am only buying one. factory drilled mounts under the rear sight are preferable but no mandatory. I assume a 4in version will be what I want as wont be using irons.I don't mind the patience for the hunt of quintessential 617. Bring it on!


617: 1989 introduction.
• 617-1 (1993): Change rear sight leaf, drill and tap frame, change extractor, synthetic grips introduced.
• 617-2 (1996): Introduction of the 10-shot alloy cylinder version; 10-shot glass-beaded stainless steel frame with alloy cylinder.
• 617-3 (1998): Change in frame design to eliminate cylinder stop stud; eliminate serrated tang; change to MIM trigger; change internal lockwork for the 6-shot stainless steel version.
• 617-4 (1998): Change in frame design to eliminate cylinder stop stud; eliminate serrated tangs; change to MIM trigger; change internal lockwork for the 10-shot stainless steel cylinder version of 617-3.

 

[PatriotX]

Do you want a square butt, or a round butt gun?

My favorite 617s, currently, are a no-dash 4” square butt and a dash 3 round butt 6”.

 

[tesoro]

didnt think about butts. lol. but i dont want to d&t unless it is worth the 'better' version. But it seems like the c models have always been the most all around coveted ones

 

[CH4]

Like you, I will only buy pre-lock guns. Besides my 6” Diamondback I have a 4” no dash and 6” -1 with a Burris FF4 red dot. I like both real well. No need to look further, not interested in more than a six shooter.
Here are my rimfire revolvers:

 

[tesoro]

Like you, I will only buy pre-lock guns. Besides my 6” Diamondback I have a 4” no dash and 6” -1 with a Burris FF4 red dot. I like both real well. No need to look further, not interested in more than a six shooter.
Here are my rimfire revolvers:
View attachment 756967


View attachment 756968

View attachment 756969

Nice but I only want one and my Q is which dash and why?

 

[CKPOMEH]

Nice but I only want one and my Q is which dash and why?

I have several 617s and many 17s/18s. The revolver I have shot the most is 617-6 with a lock, believe it or not - 4 inch with round but. Why? Well, it is a newer gun, so I can run it with all sorts of ammo (vs. standard velocity only for anything older), and because I have shot it a lot (north of 10K rounds estimate), the DA trigger is smoother than the others (mostly safe queens). Based on what you want to do with it, aim to get the best trigger, the variations above are not materially different aside from the ugly lock on the newest ones. I prefer the 10 shot ones, BTW.

I tend to shoot 4 inch revolvers better than 6 inch in DA. If I am going to shoot SA, I like the 6 inch better, and even the 8 3/8s as well...Since I shoot the 22 LRs off DA, I find the 4 inch 617 most pleasant. BTW, I recently bought 22 LR Colt King Cobra, and I like the 617 more - heavier, about the right size. You are on the right path for a 22LR shooter!

Below is my 617-6, next to a 617-1, both are drilled and tapped, one is RB, the other is SB, one is a 10 shot, the other is 6 shot. As you can see, aside from the above differences, they are very much alike.

 

[CH4]

Nice but I only want one and my Q is which dash and why?

Oops
I like the -1 because it comes factory drilled and tapped for an optic, it’s pre-lock and it’s a six shooter and had factory wood combat stocks. With an optic, barrel length isn’t so important, but I like 6” for the range and 4” for walking .

 

[Harv 24]

As a recent new owner of a 617-6, I say buy new. I like a 10 shot vs 6. It's already predrilled for a mount and the trigger and barrel accuracy out of the box are very good. I used to say I would never buy a lock gun, but now that I did, not a big deal. I always wanted a Higher end rimfire pistol and this one has scratched that itch.

And this is standing with irons on a Sun afternoon. A small redot will only make them better.

 

[Lou_NC]

It dosent matter about 6 vs 10 shot cylinders to me but I want cylinders that will eject hi-vel cci mini mag type ammo without sticking.

You won't know whether your new revolver chambers were machined to SAAMI specs until you try shooting it and seeing how it extracts. I have over a dozen .22 revolvers including several S&W's, and have reamed them all using a Brownells reamer with excellent results. All will eject any ammo without effort, and all are still quite accurate, so have no fear about getting the chambers to spec by reaming them yourself. Next to buying the revolvers themselves, the reamer was the best .22 shooting investment I've made!

Lou

 

[tesoro]

Well, it makes sense, on new, but I already have a 6in 686-4 and a 3in 66-4 so I would prefer to add a 4in pre-lock to the group. Also because it would get shot the most so I would be seeing the lawyer hole more than less. What bugs me the most about that hole is it signifies the beginning of the era when stupid people started buying guns.

CKPOMEH mentioned about that can only shoot std vel in the older ones? So is a 617 up to dash 2 K 'older' and cant handle Hi Vel Mini Mags??!! Is it without a cylinder ream job?

Also -on some other forums I am seeing quite a bit of chatter about varying accuracyfrom good to unacceptable in the 617's. One guy had called S&W and was told they are more trainers for the 686 and not target accurate across the board. Who knows!

 

[wproct]

I have owned 3 model 617 revolvers, two of them were no-dash, a 8 3/8 inch and a 6 inch. Both were full target hammer and trigger and both were square butt with the nice wood combat stocks being stock at that time. The third was a 617-1 with a 4 inch bbl, not full target, and was round but with stocks being black rubber Hogues, the round to square butt conversion type. The only one I have left is the 617-1. It is drilled and tapped to accept a scope or other sight device which I will not use. The round butt grip frame is nice because it will accept a wider variety of grips. I would say that my favorite of the 3 would be the no dash model with full target trigger and hammer. However I will have to say the 4 inch model has the best overall heft and balance. So, my perfect model 617 would be a 617-1 with 4 inch bbl and full target hammer and trigger. Of course my opinion could change tomorrow.

 

[44wheelman]

another pre-MIM model recommendation
As for sticky extraction, some cylinders need reamed, or honed, or polished.... one cylinder I had came with tool marks so bad, you thought it was threaded. Sometimes a mop with Nortons diamond compound will slick them up enough, other times 600grit sandpaper on a dowel (also in a drill). Stainless is nasty stuff, and doesn't always play nice with cutting tools.

 

[Yendor357]

Maybe get over your “Lockitus “.
The lock delete isn’t hard to do.

For a while, just for funzies, I put a 2X Leupold pistol scope on my 4 inch 617. My 617 is phenomenally accurate….
Like 5 shots around a half inch at 25 yards. (Occasionally).
Five shots under 3 inches at 100 yards a couple of times.

*Red dots, and scopes sure make things easier.

 

[PatriotX]

I like shooting the 4-inch with irons, the 6-inch gets the red dot treatment.

You could find a Dash-2 in the same config that is drilled and tapped.

 

[tesoro]

Maybe get over your “Lockitus “.
The lock delete isn’t hard to do.

For a while, just for funzies, I put a 2X Leupold pistol scope on my 4 inch 617. My 617 is phenomenally accurate….
Like 5 shots around a half inch at 25 yards. (Occasionally).
Five shots under 3 inches at 100 yards a couple of times.

*Red dots, and scopes sure make things easier.

Hey I had forgotten about the delete. I can live with that! thx

 

[CKPOMEH]

Well, it makes sense, on new, but I already have a 6in 686-4 and a 3in 66-4 so I would prefer to add a 4in pre-lock to the group. Also because it would get shot the most so I would be seeing the lawyer hole more than less. What bugs me the most about that hole is it signifies the beginning of the era when stupid people started buying guns.

CKPOMEH mentioned about that can only shoot std vel in the older ones? So is a 617 up to dash 2 K 'older' and cant handle Hi Vel Mini Mags??!! Is it without a cylinder ream job?

Also -on some other forums I am seeing quite a bit of chatter about varying accuracyfrom good to unacceptable in the 617's. One guy had called S&W and was told they are more trainers for the 686 and not target accurate across the board. Who knows!

I meant older blued guns from the 70s or before. As far as I know, the 617s should be all strong enough to handle the hi velocity rounds.

As to broader accuracy, if you are looking for a true target 22 LR, most higher end target 22LR pistols from the 60-70s will outperform any 22 LR revolver - S&W41, HS Trophy, Belgium Brownings, Colt MT, etc..They have muzzle brakes, some are ported, have better grips ergonomics, etc...just noting an option for you down the road, if you have not explored those.

 

[CKPOMEH]

I have owned 3 model 617 revolvers, two of them were no-dash, a 8 3/8 inch and a 6 inch. Both were full target hammer and trigger and both were square butt with the nice wood combat stocks being stock at that time. The third was a 617-1 with a 4 inch bbl, not full target, and was round but with stocks being black rubber Hogues, the round to square butt conversion type. The only one I have left is the 617-1. It is drilled and tapped to accept a scope or other sight device which I will not use. The round butt grip frame is nice because it will accept a wider variety of grips. I would say that my favorite of the 3 would be the no dash model with full target trigger and hammer. However I will have to say the 4 inch model has the best overall heft and balance. So, my perfect model 617 would be a 617-1 with 4 inch bbl and full target hammer and trigger. Of course my opinion could change tomorrow.

I am there with you - a 4 inch 617 balances so well, and the RB is more versatile configuration. If I had to have one 22 LR revolver, it would be a 617 in 4 inch.

 

[tesoro]

Ok i did it! I pulled the trigger on a new 4in 617, will mount a trji on it and use it as a truck gun plinker and ground squirrel gun etc. If it shoots groups all the better. I will plug the hole and, if it shoots then I'll think about a trigger. In the meantime I will be more patient for a nice deal on a super clean classic once i decide. Like the one in the link below. Same price as a new 617!

The one thing I found about .22 with my beloved Anschutz ( sold) was that the ammo started getting really expensive when I went to the top shelf for consistency. I found the old tac-22 to be the most accurate and affordable. I did some 3/4in 5x groups with it. Problem was i would get a flyer every now and then that was frustrating. And then Tac-22 black box got killed off and they came out with another V that was way worse, and no better than mini mags. Thats why I sold Annie and then bought a 17hmr which is crazy precise out to 100 if calm and at least half the price of match 22. I see S&W made a 17hmr but did they make it well enough to be able to shoot moa at 100? With a decent bbl like a CZ this is a no-brainer and boring, at least the one I had and just sold.

So I am wondering if the same thing happens shooting paper with the 17 -18 - 617 etc revolvers? ie they shoot better than the ammo.

Smith & Wesson 18-3, .22LR – 1971, 99%, MIRROR BORE – Vintage Firearms Inc

vfiguns.com

 

[Yendor357]

Cool Tes!

I think you’ll be just fine with regular old CCI MMHP. That’s what shot so well in mine.

The trigger on mine is box stock and fantastic. You may not need to do anything there either, if you’re lucky.

With a red dot, you’ll be deadly out as far as you can estimate drop.

Be sure and keep us posted.

 

[tesoro]

Cool Tes!

I think you’ll be just fine with regular old CCI MMHP. That’s what shot so well in mine.

The trigger on mine is box stock and fantastic. You may not need to do anything there either, if you’re lucky.

With a red dot, you’ll be deadly out as far as you can estimate drop.

Be sure and keep us posted.

Will do thx! I had to do one more thing. I just ordered a polished ss lock delete kit. lol. Will get it before the gun arrives!