Africa Frolic - Memory Lane

rhmc24

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In my 37 years career working for Pan Am, world's most experienced airline. I had assignments 1946-47 & 1950 with my bride at Leopoldville, Belgian Congo. 1960s I was back again this time doing a station inspection.

In the 1960s the European colonial gov'ts had moved out, leaving native gov'ts in charge. Some did reasonably well but Belgian Congo went thru several gov'ts & the capital city was re-named Kinshasa. The country half the size of the United States went prehistoric out in the boondocks. In the hotel my job done, I was whiling away the couple days till my flight out.

Another American struck up conversation, saying he had met me
somewhere before, I did not recall any meeting but he may have
looked familiar. I am pretty much a loner and almost never
approach strangers and am not often approached by strangers.
Having nothing better to do we talked, hearing his story which
I repeat below in first-person.

As I remember ---,

I have heard that there is an understanding in certain circles
that one never recognizes another person under circumstance as
described above due to risk of blowing cover. I never ever had
any "cover" than I was an American on a business trip. I was not
involved in anything covert or otherwise so it did not matter to
me. I have since often wondered how and why his approach.

If I was free, he could offer a little trip that would take a
few hours the next day. It would be a C-47 trip of about an hour
and a half and there would be a jeep ride about 10 miles to a mine.
It sounded like it might be interesting so I agreed to go.

We left the hotel early the next morning and went to the airport.
The C-47 looked airworthy enough but had no markings at all, not
uncommon in Africa at the time. My companion was not to accompany
me, I was surprised to learn. The crew were uncommunicative.
They sat in their pilot and copilot seats and flew the airplane
while I sat on a box back in the main cabin cargo compartment of
an empty airplane. We flew what seemed to be southeast and landed
at a bush airport, a grass landing strip. There was only one building that I noticed.

The crew disappeared in a back room and I was met by a man who
said he would be driving the jeep. It was open with no top and
no windshield. He asked if I was familiar with side arms and I
said I was; with some types, anyhow. He suggested I pick out one
for the trip. I took a .45 automatic in a web belt and holster.
I checked it out for function and loading. He said there were no
known opposition forces operating in the area, but one never
knows.

I had accepted this trip as an escape from boredom. Flying on
airplanes and driving around in tropical Africa was something
that I had a fill of. I guess I had expected, at least, to be
able to engage in some different and perhaps interesting
conversation. That, obviously, was not to be.

There wasn't much of a road. It was more like trail or wagon
road. We made up to about 20 MPH most of the time. In some
places it was very rough and rocky and we had to creep along in
low gear for a couple hundred yards at a time. It was the dry
season. There was vegetation but only bushy trees, not the jungle
that most people think covers Africa. We reached our destination
in about 45 minutes. During that time my companion had little to
say and made it clear that real conversation was not in order.
We were met by a man who came only to the door when he heard our
approach. I was told to wait in the jeep while he took a
briefcase into the building. There were several crude buildings
but nothing that looked like any mine that I had ever seen. One
could have concealed the entrance to a tunnel, I suppose. I saw
only the one man. My escort asked if I wanted to drive back. I
agreed.

At one of the slow places in the road I was grinding along at
walking speed. Two men stepped out in front of the vehicle with
guns. I stopped. One fired two rapid shots into my companion.
No doubt killed him almost instantly. I feared I was next.

The leader of the two motioned me to get out. I stood behind the
vehicle with my hands behind my head while he examined my
passport which I had stuck in the pocket of my bush jacket. He
had taken my .45 auto and stuck it in his belt on his left side,
with the butt toward me. These two were armed with some kind of
very short carbine or submachine gun. The one facing me had let
his gun hang on its sling while he went through my passport.

The other stood to his right about a five feet away and slightly
behind him, with his gun on me. He saw the briefcase in the back
of the jeep amongst other junk that was there. He held the gun
with his left hand while he took is right hand off the trigger
grip and leaned over reaching for something in the jeep.

This was all happening in what seemed like slow motion. I
grabbed my pistol out of the first man's belt, in one motion,
putting it off safety and firing once into his belly. He seemed
surprised. The other was trying to get his gun into operation.
I swung the muzzle in his direction and shot twice in the center
of his chest. The first man had been more or less hors de
combat from the first shot but he was still standing and groping
for his gun dangling on its sling. I then put another round into
his chest. I picked up my passport and drove back to the landing
strip, with my dead escort in a heap by my side.

There things took a strange turn. The several men there became
highly agitated when I told them what had happened. They
seemed to be as concerned about the two attackers as by the
killing of the driver. Was I sure they were dead, etc.? Why
didn't I check for sure? I told them I thought there may have
been more of them and it was in my best interest to flee the
scene.

I was then told that none of this had happened and I was flown
back to Kinshasa. The man who set up the trip was nowhere to be
found. To this day it is an unreported and unexplained event.
I have often thought about this experience but I have lost no
sleep over it. I have no guilt about the two killings. As far
as I am concernd it was them or me. I have a sort of abstract
regret, however. There is no explanation. Only speculation. I
have more or less concluded that this was intended as an
execution of the driver. I was supposed to be a witness to the
killing, that I was supposed to be allowed to drive on but it
didn't go according to plan. If my reconstruct of the scenario
is not correct or at least plausible, I doubt that I would have
survived. They could just as well shot me at first, with the
driver.

That is the story as related to me, as accurately as I can
recall.
 
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Now that... is a great story!

How about the guy who approached you in the hotel was supposed to go. He tricked you into going instead. He knew there was a plan to kill him, and that the plan was to shoot the jeep passenger on the return trip. The guy who asked you to drive on the return trip didn't know the plan, and wound up getting shot instead...
 
Now that... is a great story!

How about the guy who approached you in the hotel was supposed to go. He tricked you into going instead. He knew there was a plan to kill him, and that the plan was to shoot the jeep passenger on the return trip. The guy who asked you to drive on the return trip didn't know the plan, and wound up getting shot instead...

It is not his story.......he is recounting a story that was told to him.....I highly doubt if it was his firsthand story that he would be telling us about the taking of two lives regardless if they were bad guys or not.......don't get me wrong it is a good read its just that he is telling someone else's story as told to him........
 
Thanks for the story! I visited Kinshasa Zaire (before it was The Congo again) many times in my AF flying career. Two visits stand out.

Out plane's battery was dead, so the embassy guy came with a huge wad of cash (theirs and ours) to grease the wheels and get it charged by one of the vendors at the airport. On the way to the Intercontinental Hotel we got stopped by a traffic jam in the street. A beer truck had overturned and there was chaos as guys would run into the wreck, grab a bottle of beer, hold it aloft like a trophy, and then run into the crowd to escape. The driver and a couple of cops were trying to keep order and only chasing the greedy guys that were trying to make off with a full case. Anyway, I noticed the embassy guy sliding down in his seat and asked why. He told me that if the cops felt like they were losing control they'd just open up full auto on the crowd, without thought to where their bullets might go. :eek:

Another time we flew in from Saudi and the Kinshasa tower/ground control guy asked us if we brought the MREs with us, as though he was expecting a shipment or something. Pilot told him no. We noticed a LOT of heavily armed soldiers wandering he ramp as we unloaded out cargo. There was a peculiar and palatable tension in the air. Some British soldiers drove up to the troop door and asked if we had any spare MREs we could part with. We dug probably three or four out of our personal stashes for them. They told us the county was in chaos because the outgoing President had come on TV the night before to declare he was the President again, because the newly elected President had lined through all the references to obeying the Constitution during his swearing-in. In addition, the soldiers hadn't been paid in months and had resorted to extortion and theft. The Brits and some Americans were holed up in one house taking watches through the night to drive back looters if need be. Of course our intel brief prior to the flight mentioned none of any of that. :mad:

Of the dozens of times I'd been there those were the only two where it was anything but fun.

I wish some of the current clowns protesting in the streets here would visit some third-world countries and get an appreciation for how blessed we are here.
 
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From 1970-75 I headed aircraft maintenance for Pan Am for Africa & was 'afflicted' with several visits to Zaire, the worst being a week there setting up Pan Am's lease of a 747 to Air Zaire. Sickening how everything had become, compared to recall of my couple years there in '46 & '51. The well run Belgian Congo colonial gov't that did little for the native but did train some as clerks, mechanics, carpenters & provided some health aids & law & order. The native gov'ts abandoned totally any support or protection for its people, devoted solely to keeping itself in control & access to the country's assets.
 
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Another African Story

I worked for a large aerospace company for a number of years. One of my colleagues, Dan, prior to joining my company, had worked for a different company. At his previous company, one of his assignments was the installation of communication antenna towers in an African country. (I don't recall which one.)

Dan managed a team of guys who installed antenna towers during the day, and all came back to the same dormitory at night. One of the rules for the dormitory was the guys were not allowed to have women over.

One night one of the guys brings a prostitute back to his room, gets drunk, gets in an argument with her, and throws her off the balcony to her death.

Shortly thereafter, the girls family, relatives, friends, and fellow tribesmen, show up at the dorm, brandishing torches and prepared to lynch the guy who has pitched the girl off his balcony.

It is the proverbial lynch mob gathered in the night.

Dan rushes to his office, opens the safe, grabs all the cash he can find — about $80K — puts it in a brown paper bag, and goes outside to face the threatening crowd.

He approaches a big man at the front of the crowd who looks like he might be the leader. He hands the bag to the guy and says, diffidently, "We are very sorry about what happened to the young woman. This is for her family." The guy stares at Dan for a while, and then opens the top of the bag and takes a look...

The guy looks up at Dan, and says, "Okay." The mob leaves.

Dan is relieved, too. He writes all this up, and sends a report back to HQ in the States, and the team keeps working, installing antenna towers...

About a week later, Dan gets a phone call. It is from HQ, inquiring about the incident..

The guy is an accountant. He asks, "Did you get a receipt?"
 
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It's good to hear the real story....

Cultures have customs that are really at odds with anything we are accustomed to, or expect. I had a friend who went to Nigeria as a missionary guest of a government. Hostile is probably puts it in a nutshell. The people in charge said they had nothing to worry about because they were their guests, but still obvious hostility was the norm from people with many carrying machine guns.

You had no idea what the intentions of the 2 men were. They may have just wanted to kill the driver, and being an outsider and a foreigner, they may have had no squabble with you, or maybe didn't want the trouble of dealing with a foreigner to officials, kill you, take you hostage, let you go, or ANYTHING. And the general attitude being non-communication, how could you know what was going on.

Anyway, that's the side they don't want visitors and tourists to see, who are given a show of smoke and mirrors as opposed to what it's really like 'over there' or wherever.

Anyway, thanks for sharing that. I'd have a hard time (afterward) if I killed a person. Though my logical brain would say, "There was no other way" I'd still feel terrible about it.
 
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For a good fiction read that could have been real, find Wilbur Smith's book "The Train From Katanga." It's been sold under a couple of other titles, too. There was a movie, starring Rod Taylor and Yvette Mimieux.


I can't recall that movie title, but you can look at a list of Taylor's movies and figure it out.


You can learn a lot about the troubles in the Congo then, through the eyes of a Rhodesian lawyer turned mercenary officer. It all rings true. Could have easily been non-fiction.
Smith knows Africa, where he was born, and his books have a flair for adventure with a plausible touch.
Find his site and read his books. I think you'll be impressed.
 
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I spent a few days in Kinshasa in 1979 doing business with the offices of the local Sugar Industry, we did sell quite a bit of equipment there. It was interesting to see the boat traffic going to and from Brazzaville across the Congo River there were lots of money exchangers along the streets holding huge stacks of almost worthless paper money to change one way or the other, the notes were so old and greasy they almost looked puffy.
All in all it wasn't a bad place, the food was good and the hotel wasn't bad. My French was pretty good at that time so I got on fine.
Steve W
 
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