AHHHH_HEEELLLLPPP

[Bigred99]

Lol, so started installing my free float handguard. I have purchased some tools that I read about on here and AR15.COM. I got a set of Starrett Punches(see pic), an Armorers Tool(used to take off flash hider(see pic), and a lower reciever vise block(it goes in magwell from top or bottom(no pic)).

So have rifle all the way apart. Working on gas block and its causing me some problems. I have used a dremel cut off wheel after pounding on it for awhile. Next thought about drilling it out. I just cant get this thing off. Am I on the right path? Any help? I dont care about the gas block. I just want the new one on and the old one installed. I am a newb I know. I just wanted to do this myself and really get familiar with my rifle.

 

[Bigred99]

Oh yeah, so everywhere else it says to go from "right" to "left", can someone explain with what point of reference the right to left is defined. Like is it looking from the front of the barrel or holding the rifle and looking at a target?

 

[Gunslinger808]

To remove pin: Left to Right as you're sighting down the rifle.
To install: Right to left as you're sighting.

ETA:
On an aftermarket like the one currently installed most are not taper pins and can be removed from either side.

 

[Bigred99]

To remove pin: Left to Right as you're sighting down the rifle.
To install: Right to left as you're sighting.

Ah man, thanks a bunch. I have been searching for a while and the other threads on here said to do it the other way lol.. I will try this way and see what I get. Again, greatly appreciate your input. Ill be sure to update!!

 

[Gunslinger808]

Hey Bigred, check this thread out, I guess S&Ws are bassackward from Mil Spec rifles in that the pin goes Right to Left to remove.:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...-high-profile-m-p-optics-ready-gas-block.html

 

[Drag]

Thanks for the thread. I will be attempting this myself in the upcoming weeks, and I also figured the gas block removal on the OR model would be a PITA.

I have been searching for a while and the other threads on here said to do it the other way

My understanding was the same as yours.

 

[Trash Can Man]

AR15 A2 Front Sight & Gas Block Removal for a Free Float Tube Install - PART 1 - YouTube

Not a S&W but this may help?

 

[Argonnakid]

Man, is that thing giving you fits or what. Have you tried applying alittle bit of penetrating oil to it?

 

[Bigred99]

Man.. its pissing me off to no end. Thinking about taking it to a gun smith. Dont really wanna mess up my rifle. Reviewing the link now. Gonna real bang on it shortly. Ill update. Thanks for your help all.

 

[SimpleWeaponSolutions]

Bigred99 keep in mind any work you do on the upper receiver, you should be done using an upper receiver vise block. I read a thread on an other forum earlier this week where some one was installing a FF rail and used only a magwell bock. They damaged the upper receiver take down pin lugs and may have damaged the lower to.

 

[Bigred99]

Bigred99 keep in mind any work you do on the upper receiver, you should be done using an upper receiver vise block. I read a thread on an other forum earlier this week where some one was installing a FF rail and used only a magwell bock. They damaged the upper receiver take down pin lugs and may have damaged the lower to.

Right on..I only have a Magwell receiver block. I asked on here what tools I would need, and thought I got the right one. I don't really care about the gas block. So I viced the gas block and tried to knock the pin out that way.

 

[Kodiakco]

To remove pin: Left to Right as you're sighting down the rifle.
To install: Right to left as you're sighting.

ETA:
On an aftermarket like the one currently installed most are not taper pins and can be removed from either side.

On S&W it's R to L to remove when sighting down the rifle.

M&P15 front sight pins backward from most!

 

[wirtman]

To re-iterate what has been said before, it's right to left, I recommend the upper receiver block, although in a pinch, you can wrap a towel around the barrel, and put it in a vise. close to the gas block, the using the punch set knock the pins out right to left. Using anti seize or even good old fashioned wd 40 helps. If you don't have a vise, another way is to put 2x4s uner the barrel in front and behind the gas block and hammer it out that way. Once they start to move it'll be easier. best of luck!
also, Big red 99 = Rah Virginia Mil?

 

[wirtman]

Sorry double post

 

[Bigred99]

To re-iterate what has been said before, it's right to left, I recommend the upper receiver block, although in a pinch, you can wrap a towel around the barrel, and put it in a vise. close to the gas block, the using the punch set knock the pins out right to left. Using anti seize or even good old fashioned wd 40 helps. If you don't have a vise, another way is to put 2x4s uner the barrel in front and behind the gas block and hammer it out that way. Once they start to move it'll be easier. best of luck!
also, Big red 99 = Rah Virginia Mil?

I am over this gas block. I am doing right to left and it is not moving. I haven't yet tried heat on the block, but that is next. In looking at the pics I posted, I am hitting the correct pins right? It's the lower one on the side of the block? I got out the Dremel and started to just cut the thing off, but didn't wanna mess up the barrel so I stopped. If not off tomorrow it's going to gunsmith. For 45 bucks its probably worth the lack of headache.

Rah Virginia? I don't follow.

 

[Argonnakid]

From the pictures of the gas block, I'd say you might have flared out the ends of the pins alittle bit, think rivet. If your going to use a Dremel, hit it around the pins. Clean up the area around the pins and the pins themselves. The pictures kind-of make it look like you staked the pins into the gas block. Just remember to not cut so deep as to cut into the barrel. If your good with a Dremel, you can make a relief cut around the pin( where the pin is above the surface of the surrounding area). That could help you make sure your only hitting the pin and not the gas block when your using your hammer and punch. That gas block is scarred up anyways. Worth a try. And one more thing, make sure you use a slightly undersized punch to drive it out if you get it moving. Hate to see a pucnh stuck in the side of your gas block.

 

[oneyeopn]

From the pictures of the gas block, I'd say you might have flared out the ends of the pins alittle bit, think rivet. If your going to use a Dremel, hit it around the pins. Clean up the area around the pins and the pins themselves. The pictures kind-of make it look like you staked the pins into the gas block. Just remember to not cut so deep as to cut into the barrel. If your good with a Dremel, you can make a relief cut around the pin( where the pin is above the surface of the surrounding area). That could help you make sure your only hitting the pin and not the gas block when your using your hammer and punch. That gas block is scarred up anyways. Worth a try. And one more thing, make sure you use a slightly undersized punch to drive it out if you get it moving. Hate to see a pucnh stuck in the side of your gas block.

Yeah what he said!!

 

[wirtman]

I am over this gas block. I am doing right to left and it is not moving. I haven't yet tried heat on the block, but that is next. In looking at the pics I posted, I am hitting the correct pins right? It's the lower one on the side of the block? I got out the Dremel and started to just cut the thing off, but didn't wanna mess up the barrel so I stopped. If not off tomorrow it's going to gunsmith. For 45 bucks its probably worth the lack of headache.

Rah Virginia? I don't follow.

Sorry, Virginia Military Institute is also known by its graduates as Big Red, so I was wondering if Bigred99 meant VMI class of 99. But I think Cornell is also big red and there may be others. So, never mind, just a shot in the dark. Anyhow, hope you've been able to make progress. Again, best of luck

 

[Bigred99]

Sorry, Virginia Military Institute is also known by its graduates as Big Red, so I was wondering if Bigred99 meant VMI class of 99. But I think Cornell is also big red and there may be others. So, never mind, just a shot in the dark. Anyhow, hope you've been able to make progress. Again, best of luck

Ah lol..nope..I am of the red headed persuasion. All good though. Appreciate the motivation, but the darn thing is going to the gs. Don't wanna screw it up and really I am just over it lol.. Live and learn.

 

[Argonnakid]

Well, You gave it a shot and that's what counts. Please let us know how the gunsmith goes about getting that thing off of there. If they tell you. I would like to know just for my own personal knowledge.

 

[magnetik]

I went through the same thing. I pounded and pounded (twss) the correct way. (I measured the taper pin heads) to no avail. I went ahead and broke down and took it to my gunsmith.

 

[don5]

Take the upper off and throw it in the freezer for awhile. The metal contracts and maybe the pin shrinks enough to be pounded out. I am talking about an hour maybe not days. Spray with wd40 or PBR when it come out. That is what I would do. I don't know if it would work but I bet it would. In any event since I own a 15OR, I put the magpul handguard with some rails added on mine so I would not have change out the gas block. I don't know if this helps and I am not saying that is how the gunsmith is going to get it out. This is just my opinion on what I would do.

 

[Bigred99]

Thanks for all the help guys. I gave in today and took the rifle to a gunsmith. He came very recommended by all the LGS's. He had a nice little shop in his garage. Explained my issue and he was very confident he could get it off. He showed me his AR-15(Stag Arms lower). Nice guy really. Said he was forrmer swat and actually did all the smithing for his squad. I feel my S&W is in good hands. I went ahead and brought all the parts so he could reassemble. That way when I pick it up on friday it will be all together and awesome, lol. Ill take some good pictures when I pick it up. Again, thanks guys for the help and encouragement.
Next up- Scopes lol. Been leaning really hard towards the Nikon 1-3x-40 Tactical scope. It comes with free rings etc.. any thoughts on which one would be best?

 

[don5]

I have Nikons on all of the ARs except 1 and the scope for that one is on backorder. This includes my 3 1522s. I have 1 m223 1x4 point blank, 3 P223 3x and 1 P223 3x9x40. All have the Nikon mounts and are great scopes. I am waiting on another 3x9x40 for the one AR. I like them. I hope this helps.

 

[Bigred99]

I have Nikons on all of the ARs except 1 and the scope for that one is on backorder. This includes my 3 1522s. I have 1 m223 1x4 point blank, 3 P223 3x and 1 P223 3x9x40. All have the Nikon mounts and are great scopes. I am waiting on another 3x9x40 for the one AR. I like them. I hope this helps.

That was the vote of confidence I was looking for. I assumed they made nice glass as my father uses Nikon cameras and he doesn't buy junk anything. 3 1522's, man- you lucky dog. I am envious. I love mine. I've been watching them on arms list and it appears they are staying up in price; as the AR's are continuing to drop. I am gonna go ahead and order the Nikon. I'll update when it arrives. Thanks for your help.

 

[don5]

The Nikon 3x has hash marks on the reticle that are suppoesed to be good for 600 yrds. The crosshair is supposed to be sighted in at 200 yards to be able to reach the 600 yard mark according to the instructions. My son and I both like this scope. It is very clear. I recently put the P223 3x9x40 on my s&w m&p 15OR. I like it and my son does as well. The 1522s have prostaff rimfire 3x9x40s and a p22 2x7x32. Yes, I like the Nikons. All of them use the Nikon rings as well. Mostly the p series, but I do have the M223 on one rifle.