Aluminum J Frame Cracks...

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deyomatic

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I have had my eye out for a J frame in either 357 or 38 special plus P. The most cost effective options are the new ones are the 442s, 438, etc. I am just concerned about the issues with the frames that have cracked. Is this something that SW has addressed or fixed?
Is there a manufacturing date after which you know you'd have gotten a good one?
Any other advice or options of other models in the neighborhood of $400 +/-?

Thanks so much. I want to shoot 38 special+P
 
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I think it's a dice roll (CS), but the vast majority are solid IMO.

I own 6, 2 ea. 637,642,638 of various vintages. I've shot them all a bunch, standard & +P and have no frame cracks.

A couple of them are approaching 500+ rounds.
 
Even current production aluminum framed guns can crack.

The current 442 and 642 are probably as good as any 38sp+p.

Buy a new one, then if it cracks S&W will replace it.

Cracks are very unlikely. People don't post all over the Internet that their J frame has not cracked.

There are no-lock current production 442 and 642's out there -- that would be my preference -- in fact, I have a 642 current model.
 
I bought my 642-1 about 4.5 years ago and have put ~1400 rounds through it, including over 500 rounds of +P. So far, no cracks (*knocks on wood*). I would like to add another J-frame or two, but unless I stumble on a really good deal on a no-dash 640 or a no-lock 649 in .38 Special it will likely end up being a current production no-lock 642. I'm not too worried about it. Most of the cracks I've read about showed up early and were likely the result of over-torquing the barrel during production (based on what I've read). I have yet to read about a current production airweight J-frame with a crack that S&W didn't replace under warranty.
 
To shoot .357 in an Airweight J-frame you need a gun with a titanium cylinder and a scandium alloy frame. I don't think you can get there with a straight aluminum frame and steel cylinder. If thy made such a model, I'm not aware of if.

I think even the +P marked Airweight J-frames, which do have aluminum frames, still have titanium cylinders. So, you should look for models with those features. If I'm mistaken, someone will correct me.
 
Cal44 said:
My 642 has a steel cylinder
Click to expand...

So the new ones are marked for "+P". That's good. There was a time when they were not. I shoot +P sparingly in my own M638-2, with the stronger J-Magnum frame (like all modern J-frames), aluminum frame (like your M642), but in the '90's when mine was made they did not mark them for +P.
 
Frame cracks are rare in alloy J frames, and for the same cost and careful shopping you can also buy a used steel J frame that is even less likely to do so. One of these will not be "+ P rated" but occasional use will not harm it.
 
I think you would be well served by a 642-1 in 38 Special +P.

With +P ammo they can be snappy yet are still controllable. I'm not sure I would want a lightweight J-frame in 357 Magnum. However, there are those out there who do.

What percentage of the lightweight J-frames crack? I'm sure S&W has that number hidden somewhere. Although one failure is too many if it is your gun, I think the number would be a small one when compared to number of 642s produced.

I've owned two 642-1s and now I own one. Of the two pictured, the top one had the trigger pivot pin break. Just like a cracked frame, sheared pins are generally a warranty replacement failure.

If your gun is one of those few which fails S&W will offer to replace it under warranty.

Edmo

3dc503c7-8233-4802-9d7f-6d89ac745c0a_zpse264fe74.jpg
 
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I know this may sound like a flippant response but it isn't meant to be. Another disclaimer: I've never owned a modern alloy J frame.

Pay what it takes to get a steel J frame in .357, then shoot whatever you want in it. Yes, they are heavier but you will quickly adjust to the extra weight. I carry it far more than any other gun and with a bit of practice they are uncannily accurate. I've had my 649-3 for about 20 years now. If something happened to it, I'd buy another asap.

BTW, the noise this gun makes with .357 loads is huge! I used this gun once to CCW qualify (standard factory ammo) and everyone asked, "What the h*** are you shootin' in that thing?" I look at this as a plus because I pocket carry this gun in black bear country and if necessary, I think one round into the ground will be enough to turn a bear in the opposite direction!
 
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I've read about how the lightweight Js crack but I've owned three for some time and no problems (maybe I'm lucky). One is a Model 38 from the early '60s, a 442 from the early '90s and a Colt Cobra from '68. All get shot frequently and get a limited dose of +P.
 
I personally don't see a need for .357 out of a J-frame. With that said, both of mine are steel-framed 640s in .38. Last year a friend of mine bought a used 642 at a local gun shop, filled out the paperwork, paid, and when he got home, called me to tell me about it. I told him to check underneath where the barrel screws into the frame when he went to pick it up after the mandatory 7-day wait. It was cracked, the store sent the gun in, and he had to wait I don't know how long for a replacement.

I'm sure the majority of them are fine, even after extensive use, but I'll stick to the steel versions.
 
I have a mid-70s vintage Model 37. It isn't rated for +P and I just used regular velocity ammo in it, mostly target wadcutters and occasional 158 grain LSWC. I would also agree that .357 Magnum recoil is too substantial in a J frame.
 
Cal44 said:
Cracks are very unlikely. People don't post all over the Internet that their J frame has not cracked.
Click to expand...

Let me be a trailblazer, then. 2 J-Frames, zero cracks. Newer 637-2, older M38.

I feel I'm being short changed by not having at least one crack ...

I too, feel it's an infrequent issue and it would not stop me from buying any J-Frame.
 
S&W has been been making a Airweight J-frame since 1951, sixty-four years (according to Wikipedia). If there was a problem with large numbers cracking S&W would of addressed that a loooooong time ago. Some do crack, of course. But I'd bet it's well under 1 in a 1,000.
 
I think the issue was with guns with the 2 piece barrel and S&W had a problem in the initial production runs with barrels being overtightened, which caused a stress crack to appear in the yoke cutout area of the frame.

A few years ago, there were ample posts about it, but S&W must have finally gotten it right as there seems to be quite the decline of such posts with the later year guns.

But interestingly enough... when S&W backed off on the barrel tightening, the posts about canted/clocked barrels with the front sight blade not being exactly at 12 0'clock, have increased and even become "routine".
 
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Been carrying alloy J-frames since I started my law enforcement career in 1981, through retirement, and now as a non-LEO. No cracking of various models. NYPD did a test back in the 1980s or so and ran over 5000 rounds with no issues.
Realistically speaking, there is no way you are going to run thousands of +P rounds through your J-Frame. You are more likely to see frame stretching than cracks.
 
Thanks for all the replies...based on all the reviews, I would most likely shoot 38 LSWCHPs (if I can find them) BUT I can really appreciate the option of .357.
SO, if I was looking for a steel 357 J frame snubby hammerless or shrouded hammer, and NO LOCK, what are my options?

I have tried the 649-3, and a few others on GB, but there are just so many J frames...

Thanks.
 
What about older models? To be honest, my current front runner is the 442 moon clip model. I don't know if I can justify $600+ for the amount I would actually use it. The longer I wait, theoretically, the larger my budget.
 
Ruger SP101! I've never heard of a frame cracking on one of those (have seen online pics of it happening on a Redhawk, so maybe it occurs on other frames), but the extra weight and excellent grip tenon design really soak up recoil. I used to have one in .38 and it was softer shooting than my 640-2 (?) .38.
 
As much as I like S&W DA revolvers, if I were going to get a compact snub with the intention of firing .357 Magnum rounds regularly, I'd probably get a Ruger SP101 rather than a J-frame. I prefer J-frames in .38 Special. I think the .357 J-frames are fine guns, just not for me. Just a little quirk of mine, I guess.
 
deyomatic said:
Thanks for all the replies...based on all the reviews, I would most likely shoot 38 LSWCHPs (if I can find them) BUT I can really appreciate the option of .357.
SO, if I was looking for a steel 357 J frame snubby hammerless or shrouded hammer, and NO LOCK, what are my options?

I have tried the 649-3, and a few others on GB, but there are just so many J frames...

Thanks.
Click to expand...

640-1 would meet your criteria
 
I have a 649-3. Carry it often. Love it to death, but not at the range............:D


My other is a 638-3. Best of both worlds. I don't care about IL's or MIM parts, they are both great guns!
I'm a humpback lover.



deyomatic said:
Thanks for all the replies...based on all the reviews, I would most likely shoot 38 LSWCHPs (if I can find them) BUT I can really appreciate the option of .357.
SO, if I was looking for a steel 357 J frame snubby hammerless or shrouded hammer, and NO LOCK, what are my options?

I have tried the 649-3, and a few others on GB, but there are just so many J frames...

Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
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deyomatic said:
I have had my eye out for a J frame in either 357 or 38 special plus P. The most cost effective options are the new ones are the 442s, 438, etc. I am just concerned about the issues with the frames that have cracked. Is this something that SW has addressed or fixed?
Is there a manufacturing date after which you know you'd have gotten a good one?
Any other advice or options of other models in the neighborhood of $400 +/-?

Thanks so much. I want to shoot 38 special+P
Click to expand...

I had a 340PD bought in the mid 2000's and it had a cracked frame just under the barrel. It was a hair line crack that you almost could not see unless looking with a magnifying glass but you could feel it with your finger nail.

I was the 2nd owner and I called S & W about the problem. They had me ship it back and I received it back in about 10 days with a new frame. I have run quite a few 38+p loads and a few .357 rounds without a problem. I do inspect it though after a shooting session. So far great and I do love the gun.
 
The cracks are quite rare and usually show up in low round counts. With this in mind I put a few hundred rounds through mine right off when purchased. They've been tested and documented over thousands of rounds of +P with no ill affects.

That said, the advice given above I don't entirely agree with. The steel J's are like carrying a brick around. They're great for waistband carry, but cumbersome for ankle or pocket.

20150319_093037 by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr
20150312_104857 by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr

The 649 is my main waistband carry, especially in the summer time, though other guns come along occasionally. The 442 is always with me, regardless. As I believe in shooting what you carry, they are both used with full power defense ammo at the range most often. The 442 is just peppy enough to be fun. The 649 commands a bit more respect, but is quite tolerable. It's definitely exciting at both ends. Wouldn't be without 'em.

That little 442 is probably my favorite gun these days. It's a pure joy to carry and shoot and about as flawless as a gun can be. It's nothing special, and among the cheapest guns I own, but it works quite well.
 
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