Ammo for the 66-1

[wify]

Thank you for the warm greetings. May I start out with my first question? I have been reading some posts on .357 ammo and want to get it right. For my 66-1, are you saying I should stay above 125gr, like 142, 158 or even 180gr? Does the jacket matter or amount of lead?
I am a babe in the woods here. Go slowly!

 

[Texas Star]

There are no 142 grain bullets. There are some 140 grainers, and the Winchester Silvertip is 145 grains. (And it is an excellent choice.)

I've posted about this so often that I'll just hit the high points here, because I know that your need is real.

Factory reps told me that the hot 125 grain and lighter loads erode the forcing cone much worse. They advised 158 grain bullets. Brand and amount of jacket material don't seem to be an issue. Engineers at several ammo plants told me that they have done no research on the 140-145 grainers, but that they should be okay. The bullet stays in the case long enough to burn most of the powder better than in the lighter bullets. Burning powder grains are among the "ejecta" from the case that erodes the barrels and top straps.

If your barrel is four inches or longer, the 158 grain loads are fine, and typically give about 1200 feet per second to the bullet. In shorter .357's, I lean toward 140 grain bullets, for about the same velocity.

T-Star

 

[wify]

Thanks T-Star. It is a 6" bbl. So, I will try to stay with the 158. I'm assuming you do not have to worry about this stuff if you have a 27-2. I wanted one of those but figured I would work my way up. Thanks again.

 

[wify]

Sorry. One more question, then I'm done for tonight. Should I watch the grain count if I am firing .38 spc?

 

[flop-shank]

Sorry. One more question, then I'm done for tonight. Should I watch the grain count if I am firing .38 spc?

No. Doesn't matter. You're dealing with a lot less powder and pressure.

A model 27 will not have split forcing cone issues, but erosion and perhaps flame cutting is a problem with 125 gr. .357s in all guns. .38s don't have enough pressure to matter I would think.

 

[Texas Star]

That's right: .38 ammo isn't a factor.

If I wanted to shoot really hot .357's in an S&W, I'd use a M-686. Stainless barrels endure flame-cutting and erosion better, and the gun has the weight to keep recoil in reason. And the gun holds cylinder timing better than an M-27/28, where the heavy cylinder wears the cylinder hand sooner.

Ruger's GP -100 is an even more durable gun, but really, how many 125 grain .357's do you need to shoot?

T-Star

 

[wify]

Bullet anatomy

Thanks fellas. No wonder I see so much 125gr out there for sale. By the way, does anyone know a good book or website where I could learn about the anatomy of the bullet? You know, jacket type, grain count and the like? Thanks.

 

[flop-shank]

You're most welcome, ma'am. I would suggest that the first step to understanding ammunition would be to hang out right here every day and keep asking great questions.

I would also suggest reading Evan Marshall's books. Marshall is very controversial and polarizing in the shooting world and I would do a search for "Evan Marshall" right here in the ammo forum to learn how different forum members feel about him and his work. Breaker Dan and I recently had quite a discussion on that very subject. I wouldn't take everything he says as gospel, but you will have the beginnings of a good understanding of ammo if you read his books.

As you gain knowledge and feel that you are ready, reloading your own ammunition will take your understanding to a whole new level. I know it did for me.

 

[TXbug]

I carried a S&W 66-1 for years. It will handle any factory load .357 mag easily. My favorite was the 125gr JHP and any 158gr, hollow point or not.

While the 66 will shoot .38 special "all day long," it will loosen a few screws when using a steady diet of .357. Any S&W N frame .357 will have no such problems.

 

[enfield]

I carry 125 grain .357's and shoot .38 wadcutters with my 66-1.