Another CS1 meets the Secret Sauce

[PatriotX]

Hi folks,

Another rough 4-inch CS1 found its way home with me, and this one needed a bit more TLC. I might need to open PatriotX's Home for Wayward Duty Revolvers, the way they land here…

Let's have a look at it:




Not bad inside, actually. No varnish or congealed goo like some. It just had almost none of the original finish left, and some 'love marks' from use. Besides the challenges to the appearance, It appeared to be a well-used, well-maintained gun with almost zero end shake.


Started the prep by pulling cylinder and sealing it up with some carved oak taper plugs. Center hole got a .38spl case with piece of tape for friction fit.


3 layers of the blue stuff here:


Not doing anything here, just thought it was interesting how S&W wasn't so quick to change tooling:


This required a bit of TLC. Those grooves are in there, both at bottom of window, and on trigger guard.


AFTER:


Ahhh…sparkle, sparkle !



The outside didn't turn out too badly, either:




Gave the grip adapter a quick pass through the cabinet as well to knock off the shine. Matches nicely.




Frame window and trigger guard came out much better.




Thanks for looking, all comments welcome.

 

[John Patrick]

Looks great!

 

[KLYDE]

Outstanding "save" and craftsmanship.

Five stars on returning a classic S&W back to it's original beauty.

Klyde

 

[zwartepiet]

You've got it going on! Nice work again Px!

 

[fx35]

Nice job - it really looks good. What is the "blue stuff" that you used on the face of the cylinder? Thanks.

 

[dvanncvann]

Nice job - it really looks good. What is the "blue stuff" that you used on the face of the cylinder? Thanks.

looks like blue painters tape.

 

[smitholdtimer]

CS 1 Is Looking Good

Your excellent work has convinced the CS 1 that it's in a better place. It appears to be very happy & it is as good looking as new, or better. Very well done, SIR!

 

[PatriotX]

looks like blue painters tape.

Absolutely! I mask off anything that shouldn't be exposed to grit, including the recoil shield, hole under thumb piece, cylinder stop window, areas where trigger and hammer go, etc…

Crane and side plate get installed on frame. Cylinder, ejector rod, thumb piece and nut all get blasted off the gun.

Ejector rod goes on an aluminum mandrel to help hold with blasting gloves, thumb piece and nut go onto spare bolt for same reason.

 

[NCBeagle]

That looks really good. Excellent post.

 

[minconrevo]

It cleaned up nice! Time to go shoot it and get it a tad dirty. I like L frames because they are nearly indestructible, even with .357 factory spec mag cartridges.

I would assume aluminum oxide blast media. What grit?

 

[Dave from Pa]

Nice work!

 

[GWW]

Edit: My bad, I should have searched your other posts first OP, I'll blame it on, not enough coffee in the old bean this morning.... I see you have shared lots of info on your past blasting work, Thank You for sharing! Valuable Info!

 

[PatriotX]

It cleaned up nice! Time to go shoot it and get it a tad dirty. I like L frames because they are nearly indestructible, even with .357 factory spec mag cartridges.

I would assume aluminum oxide blast media. What grit?

Thanks for all the comments, folks.

The media is a glass bead/alum oxide blend, 106-212 micron size.

 

[fiasconva]

Good job. Wish I had the expertise to do something like that myself.

 

[rkeniston]

Purty, PatriotX! OK, all you wise guys who way back answered, "Why would you want to?" when I asked, "Which way does the cylinder extractor rod unscrew from the extractor, RH or LH?" Now you can see why I would want to. So which way is it. Mine on an N frame won't budge, either way, and I don't want to force it unless I know.

 

[Troystat]

Nicely done.