I'm looking for ways to remove trigger creep on the cheap. Here is what I've come up with:
Another M&P .22 trigger mod. - RimfireCentral.com Forums
Another M&P .22 trigger mod. - RimfireCentral.com Forums
Another M&P .22 trigger mod.
- Thread starter bigb0r3
- Start date
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Well, you asked. I think trying to turn the trigger on the .22 into a 1911 style minimum movement trigger is pointless, dangerous, and invites malfunctions, while ignoring the original idea of the M&P .22 was to emulate the centerfire M&Ps and provide .22 training that would apply.
Why not just buy a Model 41 S&W .22 and get a bullseye quality .22 pistol if that's what you want? Or a used 2206 if you're cheap?
Creep is a big complaint. I'm not trying to turn this gun into anything, I'm trying to improve its characteristics on the cheap.
"pointless, dangerous, and invites malfunctions". Hardly. I would be open to your technical elaboration on these points. If the plastic piece is placed too far back the gun will be unreliable, I will grant that. The point at which a complete reset is accomplished is readily discernable. Start a little too far forward and walk it back to your liking. I will modify the original post based on this criticism.
I would encourage you to try it, there is no loss if you don't like it. This is a modification for tweakers, I don't need to mention that it shouldn't be attempted with a loaded gun do I?
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Your modification removes trigger slack, not trigger creep.
Trigger slack is the free movement BEFORE the trigger engages and you feel resistance. Trigger slack is OK, even necessary.
Trigger creep is movement without firing AFTER the trigger engages and you feel resistance. Trigger creep is BAD and one of the main problems in poor trigger pulls.
Some overtravel is necessary to allow firing mechanism parts to function properly.
Trigger slack is the free movement BEFORE the trigger engages and you feel resistance. Trigger slack is OK, even necessary.
Trigger creep is movement without firing AFTER the trigger engages and you feel resistance. Trigger creep is BAD and one of the main problems in poor trigger pulls.
Some overtravel is necessary to allow firing mechanism parts to function properly.
"Your modification removes trigger slack, not trigger creep." I agree with this statement, it is slack not creep, the sear is not being moved. The shooting community usually refers to it as creep so I do. Whether it is good or bad is a matter of personal preference IMO.
"Some overtravel is necessary to allow firing mechanism parts to function properly".
I am pretty familiar with the mechanical function of this pistol. I am NOT a gunsmith. I posted a thread that is used as a sticky which shows a complete disassembly and gives a detailed explanation of the trigger assembly and function. While I agree that some over-travel of the trigger blade is necessary to get a reliable reset there is an excessive amount in this design in my and many others opinion.
I welcome your review of my sticky "M&P .22 Assembly" post and discussion for purposes of the M&P community's edification. I subscribe to the view that safety is a paramount concern when modifying and shooting firearms. Having said that, this modification is no more dangerous or damaging to the function of this gun than its simplicity implies or the general handling, shooting and modification of firearms.
George9
Member
The trigger on my M&P 22 is very good as far as how it breaks. Pull trigger till it this the brick wall then the rest is or should be as close to a clean creep free movment till it breaks. Break should be crisp like a glass rod.. I'm a 1911 kind a guy I have some nice triggers on some of my 1911 range guns so I know what a good trigger should feel like.. My M&P 22's break is clean and crisp with some over travle.. I'm happy with it.. Take up yes it has some take up but not all that much. I don't know if this will help you or not. George
George9
Member
bigb0r3,
""By "over-travel" in this context, I mean in the forward direction during reset.""
And you would be wrong.
Over travle is what you get after the trigger breaks before the trigger is at it's utmost rear of travle of the trigger.. Rest is when you let your finger off the trigger... Sounds like you just want to get rid of takeup! Ok just pull the trigger till you feel it stop before the trigger breaks, you know that brick wall.. Also you can check out You tube.. keep it safe your not a gunsmith.. George
""By "over-travel" in this context, I mean in the forward direction during reset.""
And you would be wrong.
Over travle is what you get after the trigger breaks before the trigger is at it's utmost rear of travle of the trigger.. Rest is when you let your finger off the trigger... Sounds like you just want to get rid of takeup! Ok just pull the trigger till you feel it stop before the trigger breaks, you know that brick wall.. Also you can check out You tube.. keep it safe your not a gunsmith.. George
agksimon
Member
When I shoot Steel Challenge and "defensive pistol", which is similar to IDPA, but our club allows rimfires, I use my M&P22. When in the heat of the moment, I don't pay any attention to pre or overtravel at all. There are much more important fundamentals to think about at the time. Besides needing a gun to be 100% reliable, which mine is with Mini-Mags, you need good sights and a lighter trigger than 6.5lbs, which is what mine came with. It took less than 15 minutes to bring it down to 3lbs and I also changed the sights to fiber optic. Travel distance isn't even an afterthought.
When people start to get involved in the action shooting sports, what they consider important modifications will probably be quite different than before they got into the sport.
When people start to get involved in the action shooting sports, what they consider important modifications will probably be quite different than before they got into the sport.
