Not to mention a fake and a no talent fraud. Just like his kitchen experience, garbage in, garbage out.
Disagree. He is as genuine as they come.
Bourdain came up in the culinary trenches at the same time I did. Back then, there was no Food Network, there were no "celebrity chefs" or "food personalities." It was a trade job, on the scale of landscaping and roofing, the only differing factor being the artistic slant involved.
Being incessantly screamed at by an alcoholic, festering, classically-trained Escoffier-worshipping Frenchman in a wild, noisy, searing-hot hive filled with knife-wielding degenerates, Type-A misfits, drunkards, transients and artists for low wage and lower recognition was not a venture one entered into without a sincere love of the craft and the game.
There should be a mandatory course on these realities of the kitchen in every culinary school in the land -- it ain't like it appears on TV. But I digress ...
To that end, try and watch the episode of No Reservations wherein Bourdain goes back to his last restaurant job after 10 years away and tries to work the Tuesday double shift. If you've never worked a line in a very busy restaurant, you have no idea. That show is the closest accurate documentation of the pro cook's life I've ever seen. He gets crushed.
Brasserie Les Halles, his last restaurant job, is not a hash house. Bourdain had the culinary skills it took for that very good, very popular restaurant. He ran it well, very well. That takes talent.
I met him on his first book tour, as I had just picked up a first-edition copy of Kitchen Confidential and was immediate and profoundly impressed by the fact that someone had finally told our tribal story, the story of the cooks, so well and with all warts displayed. It was, and is, a fine piece of writing.
This was before anyone knew who he was. No TV had happened for him yet. He was literally on vacation from his restaurant job to flog his book and hope he could get out of the kitchen for good. Everyone there was a restaurant lifer, kitchen and front of the house, and let me assure you these people don't flock for a disingenuous putz who hasn't really walked the walk. He was and is the real deal.
Which brings us to that other talent of his -- writing. His command of the language and ability to turn a phrase is not hack work either. Before he took the time to report on the scene behind the kitchen doors, he published two crime novels that are worth seeking out: Bone In The Throat and Gone Bamboo. Suffice to say that the industrial kitchen is a location that can figure very well into murder and effectively, um, 'processing evidence.'
Wyatt, be sure to pick up his book Medium Raw: A Bloody Valentine to the World of Food and the People Who Cook -- it is a great read as well, and will continue the story of the book you're reading now.